anyone hear of this stuff before? looks a lot like this hd uno stuff. anyways, cool videos showing how to properly polish with a rotary buffer.
Clearcoat Solutions Inc.
Clearcoat Solutions Inc.
Rotary polishing videos
- Thread starter salpac
- Start date
Mike_Phillips
Administrator
Just watched the first video and he says he's sanding to remove oxidation?
My guess is because it's an original 1972 Ferrari it's a single stage paints and while they do oxidize easily you don't have to sand to remove oxidation you can remove oxidation using a lot less aggressive products and methods and then you won't have to risk making a mistake removing sanding marks using a rotary buffer with a wool pad and a compound.
I'm not saying his approach is wrong, but as someone that's restored a lot of antique and original single stage paints sanding usually isn't my first choice especially if retaining the original paint is the highest priority.
My guess is because it's an original 1972 Ferrari it's a single stage paints and while they do oxidize easily you don't have to sand to remove oxidation you can remove oxidation using a lot less aggressive products and methods and then you won't have to risk making a mistake removing sanding marks using a rotary buffer with a wool pad and a compound.
I'm not saying his approach is wrong, but as someone that's restored a lot of antique and original single stage paints sanding usually isn't my first choice especially if retaining the original paint is the highest priority.
Mike_Phillips
Administrator
I like his cart and how he has the pad washer elevated. :up
He's right about the pad washer, it will clean a dirty pad and with a new pad it will remove a lot of the loose fibers. You don't need a high speed when cleaning the pad but the part he forgot was to lift the buffer up a little with the pad still inside the bucket and under the lid and then bring the RPM's up to a higher speed and this will zing out most of the excess water and cleaning solution.
Not a big deal, just something we show in all our classes.
He's right about the pad washer, it will clean a dirty pad and with a new pad it will remove a lot of the loose fibers. You don't need a high speed when cleaning the pad but the part he forgot was to lift the buffer up a little with the pad still inside the bucket and under the lid and then bring the RPM's up to a higher speed and this will zing out most of the excess water and cleaning solution.
Not a big deal, just something we show in all our classes.
Mike_Phillips
Administrator
Isn't Tom Horvath the creator of System I products?
Just watched his buffing section, I would have used a smaller wool pad for inside the scoops and taped off the high body lines if this car were truly something I didn't want to risk making a mistake on. I would have also covered up all the wiper blades because no matter how GREAT you are with a rotary buffer you will always throw a little splatter and it's paint to clean little white dots splattered all over black wiper arm assemblies as well as anything else it lands on.
Personal preference.
I still wouldn't sand off oxidation especially if one of the goals was to NOT remove factory orange peel which he eluded to.
Nicely done videos though...
:2thumbs:
Just watched his buffing section, I would have used a smaller wool pad for inside the scoops and taped off the high body lines if this car were truly something I didn't want to risk making a mistake on. I would have also covered up all the wiper blades because no matter how GREAT you are with a rotary buffer you will always throw a little splatter and it's paint to clean little white dots splattered all over black wiper arm assemblies as well as anything else it lands on.
Personal preference.
I still wouldn't sand off oxidation especially if one of the goals was to NOT remove factory orange peel which he eluded to.
Nicely done videos though...
:2thumbs:
S&S Detailing
New member
This may be a stupid question, but is he going way too fast or do I just buff really slowly :think
And I'm talking about the speed he goes over the surface, not the rpm's of the buffer itself) I was always taught that the slower you go the less swirls you will get etc. If someone could enlighten me I would appreciate it!!!
And I'm talking about the speed he goes over the surface, not the rpm's of the buffer itself) I was always taught that the slower you go the less swirls you will get etc. If someone could enlighten me I would appreciate it!!!
rwisejr
New member
Yes thats Tom the creator of system one and his new system
rwisejr
New member
Mike Phillips said:I like his cart and how he has the pad washer elevated. :up
He's right about the pad washer, it will clean a dirty pad and with a new pad it will remove a lot of the loose fibers. You don't need a high speed when cleaning the pad but the part he forgot was to lift the buffer up a little with the pad still inside the bucket and under the lid and then bring the RPM's up to a higher speed and this will zing out most of the excess water and cleaning solution.
Not a big deal, just something we show in all our classes.
I love that cart with the padwasher aswell !!!
The Geek had that pad washer on sale for $99 (regular price $139) so I bought one. I should receive it next week.
It's a little expensive, even on sale, but it's super-easy to use and when you're working on fussy paint, you don't want to wonder if it's your dirty pad that's making things difficult.
The cart looks cool too, but I doubt I could afford that if I was almost too cheap to buy the pad washer.
It's a little expensive, even on sale, but it's super-easy to use and when you're working on fussy paint, you don't want to wonder if it's your dirty pad that's making things difficult.
The cart looks cool too, but I doubt I could afford that if I was almost too cheap to buy the pad washer.
the other pc
New member
Flashtime said:
I completely disagree.
3k may be very fine as sandpaper goes but it's extremely aggressive compared to a polish or compound. (Which is why he used it in the first place rather than just relying on buffing.)
He's also doing it freehand, without a DA or even a foam block. That may not remove as much paint volume as fast as the DA but it will leave deeper scratches (despite his claim that he won't leave finger marks).
If a "medium" polish is all he needs it's interesting that he's chosen to use his heaviest cut product that "Removes 1500 grit on very hard paint surfaces like ceramic clear coats for a quick finish."
He is not using it to remove contaminants. He's cutting paint. Just look at the car. It isn't covered with "chalk." It's just faded paint and he's grinding through it to expose non-faded paint.
It is absolutely nothing like claying. He is grinding the paint away. Clay does not remove paint, only gunk stuck on the top of it.
If you clay faded, oxidized paint you get smooth, faded, oxidized paint. You will need to use something that cuts into the oxidized film to remove it. The question it how aggressive? He chose to go fairly (but not extraordinarily) fast and aggressive.
pc.
FWIW, I've seen some compounds that leave more of a haze than 3000 grit. We're talking 'old-school' compounds, but compounds nonetheless.
There are a lot of 'relative' things being discussed here...lots of variables...and I think the biggest one is the person behind the machine/sandpaper. Just about every method out there could be done right or wrong.
People scoff at those who don't sand with a block. But for someone who knows their stuff, it's actually safer to sand WITHOUT a block. A trained hand is more likley to move with the contours and imperfections of a surface that is not 100% straight. Sand with a block and any high spots will get hit much harder than the surrounding areas and you run a higher risk of going through. So much for the 'safety' of a block.
Same thing with the windshield wiper comment. If you're sloppy, yeah, you better tape or mask those things off. I tend to be sloppy. But I know guys that don't sling. Ever. And those guys don't need to mask surrounding areas off and I think the associated criticism is unwarranted.
I for one would not create a video that promotes wetsanding. I don't promote wetsanding (but I do it). I just think the risks are too high and inevitably someone will jack up their paint and try to blame someone else for it. And if the point was to prove that the high-cut polish was able to remove 3000 grit, big deal. Almost any polish will do that. So I'm not impressed.
Also, having never worked on original 1972 Ferrari paint, I can't say exactly how it would behave from polishing, claying, wetsanding or anyting in between. So I'm not sure the traditional rules for today's acrylic urethanes and ceramic clears apply. I'm not saying they don't, but without being there, we can only theorize.
Man we are a tough crowd...
There are a lot of 'relative' things being discussed here...lots of variables...and I think the biggest one is the person behind the machine/sandpaper. Just about every method out there could be done right or wrong.
People scoff at those who don't sand with a block. But for someone who knows their stuff, it's actually safer to sand WITHOUT a block. A trained hand is more likley to move with the contours and imperfections of a surface that is not 100% straight. Sand with a block and any high spots will get hit much harder than the surrounding areas and you run a higher risk of going through. So much for the 'safety' of a block.
Same thing with the windshield wiper comment. If you're sloppy, yeah, you better tape or mask those things off. I tend to be sloppy. But I know guys that don't sling. Ever. And those guys don't need to mask surrounding areas off and I think the associated criticism is unwarranted.
I for one would not create a video that promotes wetsanding. I don't promote wetsanding (but I do it). I just think the risks are too high and inevitably someone will jack up their paint and try to blame someone else for it. And if the point was to prove that the high-cut polish was able to remove 3000 grit, big deal. Almost any polish will do that. So I'm not impressed.
Also, having never worked on original 1972 Ferrari paint, I can't say exactly how it would behave from polishing, claying, wetsanding or anyting in between. So I'm not sure the traditional rules for today's acrylic urethanes and ceramic clears apply. I'm not saying they don't, but without being there, we can only theorize.
Man we are a tough crowd...
mike4690 said:
i think that guys like this guy and this guy in this video just have so much experience that they don't need a smaller pad. they can control larger pads just fine...
Detailing Video
Still Learnin
New member
i also dont like how hes wearing a watch in the introduction part, he has his arm sitting on the hood. maybe from the angle of the camera it might seem that way. but thats just too big of a risk to scratch the paint if you ask me...
imported_Bence
New member
salpac said:
OMG!!! :scared::soscared::shocked