Rotary Polishing Around Edges

S

SR77

New member
A few question for you rotary guys. I have read on here many times to keep the pad flat and avoid polishing edges, what do you guys mean by "Edges", do you mean the actual edges of the panel or do you mean the edges of the panel creases, or both? Most car today do not have a flat panel, there are many different shapes and creases on the panel and I am not sure if you mean these creases on the different shaped panel or the actual edge of the panel. The flat part off all of panels are sometimes only a few inches big so if you are avoiding the edges of these creases, how do you polish these smaller sections. Same goes for Pillars, most of these are only a few inches wide, so how do you polish these smaller areas with a rotary while keeping the pad flat and avoiding the edges? I have 6" pads that I am using with my rotary. Below are a few pictures of what I am talking about. One is a front fender with many smaller sections that are smaller then a typical pad, and the other is of a Pillar. How do you guys rotary polish panels like this avoiding all the edges and creases while keeping the pad flat. thanks for the help

2_misc_078.jpg


2_misc_022.jpg
 
Personally I try to stay away from ALL edges with wool or cutting pads. The edge is probably thinner than the rest of the paint. Sharp edges are worse. You can do flat edges like doors with foam polishing pads but be careful.
 
4 inch pads mostly. I did both front fenders on a 2 door holden astra yesterday with the CCS 4 inch pads. They cut great too. I got everything out with an orange pad
 
SR77 said:
A few question for you rotary guys. I have read on here many times to keep the pad flat and avoid polishing edges, what do you guys mean by "Edges", do you mean the actual edges of the panel or do you mean the edges of the panel creases, or both? Most car today do not have a flat panel, there are many different shapes and creases on the panel and I am not sure if you mean these creases on the different shaped panel or the actual edge of the panel. The flat part off all of panels are sometimes only a few inches big so if you are avoiding the edges of these creases, how do you polish these smaller sections. Same goes for Pillars, most of these are only a few inches wide, so how do you polish these smaller areas with a rotary while keeping the pad flat and avoiding the edges? I have 6" pads that I am using with my rotary. Below are a few pictures of what I am talking about. One is a front fender with many smaller sections that are smaller then a typical pad, and the other is of a Pillar. How do you guys rotary polish panels like this avoiding all the edges and creases while keeping the pad flat. thanks for the help

]
Click to expand...



Rounded edges aren't to bad, but you have to be careful around hard edges (where there's an actual crease) as the speed of a rotary will bite into those type of edges much quicker and it's easy to burn through the paint. Many people tape off the hard edges just to avoid such a problem. Tight areas it's best to either use a PC for those or do them by hand. An experienced rotary user can do those sections with smaller pads and lots of TLC. The rotary is a great tool that makes the work much quicker and easier but it also has a much bigger learning curve. One needs to approach it with caution. A PC on the other hand, although not near as efficient and good at getting out all the problem areas, is much more forgiving and pretty much fool proof.
 
so many things to watch.



Firstly, I don't work with the pad flat, its always lifted somewhat.. at a small angle. On that fender my pad would be at an angle that allowed me to watch what I was doing and also be effective in working the panel.. never flat!

With the pillar, You have to be careful because if one side is slightly elevated, then the pad will burn that high side if the pad is kept flat. You have to be very aware of where you are and what your pad is doing... and it all happens FAST with the rotory.. damage is only ONE second away! Good luck.
 
thanks for the replies. I don't have any 4" pads at the moment so thats not gonna work yet.



So let me see if i got this right, be careful around all edges but its the creased edges in the middle of the panels that are more important because the pad goes right over the high point of the creased edge, correct? So in the first pic on the wheel fender extension, it starts out curved which is ok, but alittle pasted half way down there is a creased edge and that should be avoided and done by hand? And on the pillar pic, the edge is right in the middle, so I should turn the pad on its side at an angle to only get the 2 painted areas? thanks again
 
On that pillar pic I would tape off the black trim and go at the paint with a 4" pad OR a 5.5" pad and lift it to get at the paint. You mentioned you don't have 4" pads but I use the heck out of them all around a vehicle. 4" pads can fucous a LOT of heat in my opinion so I will, at times, back off the speed a bit or even change to a lighter cut 4" pad.



I use my rotary on most areas like this because of the time savings it provides however I am very meticulous around these areas as previously stated by others to avoid problems. Again, sometimes I'll change to a lighter cut pad to remove some of the aggressive bite in areas like this. I also buff "off" the edges when I'm near or on them. Pay attention to the directional circular spinning of the pad and have the spin go "off" the edge and into the air and don't dwell on these areas at all. If you even think you should tape off an area you are best served to do it. Tape is my best friend!!! It goes on and off so easy and I don't hesitate to use if I'm concerned about any area around the vehicle.
 
With the pillars, I open the front door and do that half of the pillar and then vice versa

The biggest hassle is residue in the trims on some of them
 
SVR, great idea for the pillars, I can crack the door alittle so I am always polishing off the edge of the door and not into the other side of the pillar. Gonna be tricky with my 6" pads, but I guess I can angle the pad for just that area. I just don't want holograms and have always read on here to keep the pad flat. Guess i can try putting tape on the fender crease edges to so i don't touch the edge at all with the pad. Better stock up on alot of tape then !!!!!
 
4 inch spot buff pads are what I use. I call them baby buffs.

I used to do them with the sonus DAS 6 inch pads but the 4's are so much nicer and cut better
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top