Rotary on edges?

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Obsessive1

New member
Seem to be getting the hang of it. Most of my problem is with the edges of panels. I seem to not even be getting the edges, especially on the left side of the panel i'm working on. This is while holding the rotary vertical. Or when I am buffing to the left I seem to have a harder time. Any ideas on what is wrong with my technique that is giving me trouble? Thx.
 
Are you working on single stage paint? If it's clearcoated it isn't an issue. If it's single stage then I'd suggest using a low RPM and a finishing pad and be careful.
 
Well all in general. I am using larger pads so that is probably part of the problem. What about on control when switching directions? When I start moving the machine to the left I tend to lose control. I know it is my technique. What is it though?
 
I agree, 6.5" pads are a godsend, particularly the consistency of the LC CCS white and below... (green, black, blue...etc)



I really don't like using orange on the rotary, I'd rather use foamed wool or standard wool instead. Orange is too stiff, but for the flex or PC it's great.



I don't like anything larger at all, 6.5" is great for everything.
 
That is what I was getting ready to ask if I should try. I think I will just start using the 7.5 and 8.5's on pretty large panels only. AND more practice.
 
Stick with 6" - 6.5" pads they are much easier to control. I have never had a problem polishing edges with the rotary but like others have mentioned keep the speed way down and keep moving. Personally I use the LC 6.5" purple foamed wool for all correction work including the edges. This pad will not heat up and burn an edge if you keep the RPMs low (900 - 1100). After correcting with the wool pad use a finishing pad with low RPMs to restore the gloss. For me this works very well on most paints with no risk of paint burn even on the edges.
 
Heres a good idea for edges.



When doing the first step which is the strongest for removing defects only go half an inch to the edge.



Then when you are following up that strongest step with a finer polish or softer pad you can then go right up to and on the edge of the paint. This softer polish will still give some correction but will be safer than using the stronger combination on the edges.



So you can polish the edges with a rotary but make sure its a step finer than the pad/polish combination used on the flat panels.
 
TTWAGN said:
Heres a good idea for edges.



When doing the first step which is the strongest for removing defects only go half an inch to the edge.



Then when you are following up that strongest step with a finer polish or softer pad you can then go right up to and on the edge of the paint. This softer polish will still give some correction but will be safer than using the stronger combination on the edges.



So you can polish the edges with a rotary but make sure its a step finer than the pad/polish combination used on the flat panels.
Click to expand...



True for the most part but keep in mind that the softer finishing foam pad with that finer polish will generate ten times the heat that a wool pad with a mild compound (eg. OCC) will. It's the heat that will burn an edge or any part of the vehicle, so by using a pad that creates virtually no heat and by polishing "off" the edge of the panel will in almost every case guarantee you will not burn the edge. I have used this exact routine on thousands of edges without a burn. If you are still worried about burning an edge then tape the edges with painters tape when you are compounding and pull it off when you polish. Only problem is if you want to get rid of marring at the edges (which is noticeable on black paint) this approach is not recommended.
 
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