Road Salt

C

Corners

New member
Living in Oregon and probably applies to other States.  The highway crews not only use red cinders to prevent slidding (they are good for breaking windshields and rock chipping your ride) but they are putting down a "liquid salt."  It does melt snow and ice down to 22 degrees.  However, driving through this junk, you can watch the "salt spray" sticking to the sides of your vehicle.  Can't see it, but it also covers every square inch of the underside of a vehicle.


 


I can take care of the underside with a 3000 psi pressure washer.  What I am looking for, after I finish washing, claying, etc a vehicle, getting ready to do a thorough exterior detail, is some kind of a product that you can either put down first OR apply after the detail that will either take salt off the paint or prevent all of it from sticking to the vehicle.  I saw such a product last summer, online, but was to stupid to buy it then and more stupid to not have bookmarked the site.


 


I have a two week old 2014 Rubicon jeep (white), a 2013 Toyota Avalon (some kind of green? color) and a 2012 Dodge Diesel 4x4 (metallic silver).


The jeep doesn't show the salt very much.  Other two vehicles ~ you can see this white junk down the entire sides.


 


After driving on this salt, I have to break out my pressure washer and get as much salt off as possible.  However, this product I saw claimed to prevent it from sticking in the first place.


 


Anybody seen such a product or know about any? 
 
ArmorAll Extreme Shield Wax is supposed to help accomplish that.  I used it once, but didn't put it through much of a test, so I can't attest to it's claims.
 
You should try a seal, or even better a coating.

The coating is similar to a second clear coat,

then you could add a wax weekly after coat cures

for an extra added layer of protection.


A budget seal that I would try is Opti Seal.

It is 8 ounces for 25 bucks. Considering that one ounce

is supposed to cover 4 or 5 vehicles, then that is 32 to 40

for 25 dollars. Less than a buck per application plus labor.


This is the product that I will do for my high volume

dealership work orders. I am thinking about only applying

it to the lower quarter panel to stop damage and seal paint.

Since the top of vehicle is unprotected, they still need me

to wash and wax every so often. It keeps me in a job.


For personal customers, I would always do the full vehicle,

so they are blown away by the results.
 
Huh, I'm always a bit surprised by threads about how difficult it is to get salt off....here in Ohio they sure use a lot of it, and my vehicles get really messed up between washes, but the stuff just washes off with no problem at all; M16, 476S, and especially FK1000P all seem to release it quite easily for me.
 
The "white stripes" are not the normal "salt", but magnesium cloride. Much more corrosive than the normal "salt" used for years. This new ice/snow melting compound will continue to be active every time it is exposed to any moisture. 


For more technical and advisory information regarding this go to valugard.net where is much factual information and how to reduce it's damaging effects.
 
as any one in the "salt belt" can tell you it not a lot of fun to like you cars/truck looking good in the winter w/all the stuff that is layed out on the road.


I pretty much just grin and bear it. last few yrs before it gets too cold I put on some OS topped w/OCW and a wek later Colinite 885.


still ahve to deal w/this though.








 
The "REAL" concern, other than appearance, is not the residue on the paint, the paint can handle it, it's the undercarriage, suspension parts,the hem flanges of the doors,hood, trunk lid, the inner cavatities of the fenders and wheel wells, etc. That, and this mag cloride being used.
 
Exactly ... Always rinses off for me ... Other thing .. When its really cold out.. Leave it alone... Won't hurt a thing. Both need moisture to be active ... And if the water/moisture is frozen it hurts nothing as far as corrosion goes.
 
Jesstzn- Well, the "leave it frozen" thing doesn't work for me as it never gets that cold in either of my garages. 


 


Ron Ketcham- Doesn't ValuGard have some product that's supposed to be very effective at cleaning off the Magnesium Chloride?  I'm doing OK with my usual stuff, but I'd still like to know...
 
Yeah, they a new one they developed last year for the trucking and bus industry. I have a couple of samples, gave one to a buddy who runs three over the road trucks, he says it worked great.
 
ProGard #VG502, available in 5 gal or 55 gal drums. They don't package in smaller as it is directed at large fleets for use. valugard.net
 
I got a quart sample of valugard truck and trailer wash (for neutralizing mag chloride) last year and applied under the truck. It's mixed 1:3 w/ water and i used half of my gallon mixture. I really wish they would package it by the gallon.
 
I suggest you call David Besuden at AI and let him know that you feel there is a market for gallon sizes. He's the guy to make the decision for such. 800=543=7156
 
<span style="font-size:14px;">Here are 4 resources:


<span style="font-size:14px;">http://www.saltx.com/saltx_base_order.htm


<span style="font-size:14px;">http://rustremoverproducts.com/Prevent_Corrosion_with_Salt_Neutralizer.htm


<span style="font-size:14px;">http://www.saltx-saltremoval.com/


<span style="font-size:14px;">http://www.centurycorrosion.com/chlor-concentrate.htm


<span style="font-size:14px;">I have not used any of them, so I can't endorse them.


<span style="font-size:14px;">I have also seen a device that bolts to the steel of the car and runs off the battery that repels


<span style="font-size:14px;">the salt from ever sticking.  I cannot find where I put that bookmark.
 
The "item" you mentioned about the "device" regarding corrosion protection is nothing that is more than "blinking lights", as more than one "State Attorney Generals" have proven. In order for a device such as it to work, requires a sacrificial plate, which requires replacement on a set basis. It is effective on steel boat hulls, bridges, etc. There are several legal findings against such devices sold to car owners, against such companies. They do NOT work on a vehicle. Google it, you may find the information.


The problem is as I have presented, and it has to do with moisture and corrosive chemicals that enter the "cavatites " of a vehicle, the parts that one does not normally see. How they enter "cracks and crevises" in the vehicle, and continue to "eat" at the exposed metal, once there is the normal flexing of the body panels, exposing bare metal. The paint you see is not the concern, the products you place on your paint, much as "undercoating" does little to ward off the corrosion that is termed "perforation" of the metal panels.
 
ron are you saying that good undercoatings do not provide protection? is this because once compromised the salts can creep under them further or is it because salts can go through the undercoat?
 
The majority of undercoating sold will crack and pull away from the surface. This allows corrosives to get between the coating and the metal. It holds it there along with moisture. This is true of even the rubberized products. Doesn't happen overnight, but it does take place. Quality undercoating will not dry out and crack, which creates the pocketing. 


The undercoating product my old company produces does not crack, etc.


Ford and Chrysler subjected the ValuGard Undercoating to extensive "long term" testing to insure it does not create this pocketing, which is why the Ford Motorcraft and Chrysler MoPar undercoating is supplied by Automotive International,Inc. manufactuer of the ValuGard brand. AI has been supplying Chrysler since 1981 and Ford since 2003.
 
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