tuscarora dave
"Luck" Residue of design
Hi everyone.
First I'd like to thank the great folks at Autogeek for sending me a bottle of this product to test out and give my honest thoughts and findings.
Secondly I'd like to thank Steve A.K.A. Poorboy and Chris A.K.A. Pockets. (Steve's trusty sidekick and warehouse manager)
Shortly after I first started detailing cars, I chose Poorboy's World Polishing and Detailing Products because I was always working in direct sunlight. I found all of the Poorboy's World products to be very easy to work with and very easy to remove in the hot sun.
I spent a lot of time testing out different Poorboy's World products and I also spent a lot of time in the chat room over at Detail City (now autopiaforum.com) chatting with Steve and the gang, picking Steve's brain about his products and which ones would be best for what situation. Steve was always very helpful and had never failed to give me his advice and or suggestions on what to do regarding his products, he was even willing to do this over the phone when I called him. I had the pleasure of attending a few of the Poorboy's World Detailing Weekends where I was able to put Steve's advice and the experience that I had gained in testing his products to use in helping a lot of the other attendees to get their cars straightened out and learn about detailing in general.
Steve is a gracious host to say the least. I used Poorboy's World Products almost exclusively for the first 2 years that I detailed cars. I find the Poorboy's World products to be on the safe side hence very easy for beginners to learn with and attain great results with. It wasn't until I had begun to get real busy with a volume of production details requiring a very fast cutting nice finishing compound that through necessity I had begun to look in another direction for my compounds and polishes.
OK, on to the review.
First off, today was a overcast day with no direct sunlight at all so my photos reflect the paint defects in my test sections by using the cameras flash only. The temperature was around 90 degrees. I will add to this thread additional cars being worked on in the sun using Master Cut at a later date.
I had the opportunity to test out the Poorboy's SYN 1 in the past which honestly didn't thrill me at all as it was too slow cutting and way too dusty so when I got to test Master Cut today I was pleased with it's performance. This concludes my review. Thanks for reading it.
No Just Kidding. :rofl
Packaging and labeling:
The bottle is a typical clear bottle used for all other Poorboy's World products. I like these bottles as they are sturdy with a flip top cap that never gets clogged with dried product. I have wondered in the past however if the clear plastic may allow the sun to cause any adverse effects on the products inside. I have found some of the other polishes and compounds that are packaged in these clear bottles to thin out in the summer months and never regain their thicker viscosity no matter how much you shake them. Let's hope that "Master Cut" Super Cut Compound doesn't turn out to be one of those products.
The labeling is the standard Poorboy's World labeling, nothing flashy or hyped about it at all. Very easy to read and understand with clear directions.
Smell and consistency:
Unlike most Poorboy's World products, Master Cut has no distinct smell.
The consistency of the product is somewhat on the thicker side, very similar to that of M-105.
Product behavior and workability:
I really like the fact that the product is a bit on the thick side as while testing it out using my rotary polisher I experienced a product that was thick enough to stay near the surface of the pad as a primer to the pad so that not much of the product absorbed deeply into the pad, allowing for more of the product to do the work at cutting the paint evenly and with no noticeable product sling.
"Master Cut" Super Cut Compound has an extremely long working time compared to the compound (M-105) that I normally use. I experienced very little dusting with Master Cut and was able to get 4 complete section passes with it before the product worked down to a near invisible state, making for very easy spent product removal.
What I noticed left on my orange light cutting pad at the end of 4 complete section passes was a thin, even crusting of spent product/abraded off clear paint mixture that easily brushed off of the pad using my nylon, somewhat thick bristled denture brush. After brushing the spent product from the pad, the pad was very clean.
At one point in my testing of "Master Cut" Super Cut Compound, I intentionally applied too much product to the pad to see if the product would sling or clump up and stick to the paint in thick proportions as some other compounds will. This was done on a panel separate from the one shown in this review and the results of this test were that the product did not sling nor did it clump up and stick to the paint in thick proportions.
Paradoxically, the product had spread evenly across the large test section and after working half of the test section until the product had worked down to a nearly invisible state, I was then able to go back to the other side of the test section and pick the product up into my pad and work it down to a near invisible state as well as it had not dried up while working the first half of the test section.
To my surprise, even after allowing the product to sit while I worked the first half of the test section, the product did not clump up or dust excessively.
Cut and Finish:
The cutting ability of Master cut is very similar to that of M-105 with a very slight edge going to M-105. While "Master Cut" Super Cut Compound takes slightly longer to achieve the results as does M-105, the pleasant working attributes of Master Cut makes it a product that I would choose over M-105.
The finishing abilities of "Master Cut" Super Cut Compound in my opinion are that the finish is ever so slightly less refined than that of M-105 in that there were very slight traces of pad/product swirls left behind in an otherwise surprisingly glossy black finish. Again though, The difference is so slight that with the pleasant workability attributes of Master Cut, I'd be reaching for Master Cut over M-105. I have no doubt in my mind that if worked on a white or silver painted vehicle, "Master Cut" Super Cut Compound could, with good technique finish wax ready.
In Summary:
I have to congratulate Steve and the guys over at Poorboy's World because in my personal opinion, I believe that they nailed an out of the park home run with "Master Cut" Super Cut Compound. This is a product that I feel is effective enough for the seasoned high volume professional recon guys and easy enough for the beginning driveway enthusiast to use (with the use of common sense of course) in conjunction with a finishing polish and good technique to achieve a flawless finish on their daily drivers or garage queens. Now keep in mind that the weather was overcast with temperatures in the low nineties during this first testing session. I will do further testing in direct sunlight conditions and on other paint systems with this product and post my findings in this thread. Thanks for reading my review, TD
Now onto some photographs.
Here is a photo of the product as shipped to me.
The test vehicle was a 2005 black Toyota Solara with a medium hard clear coat finish.
I first thoroughly washed the test vehicle by doing a pre-soak with Citra-Plus Citrus Degreaser to remove any existing wax or sealant that may have been present and power spraying off the car at the local car wash using the high pressure soap setting then of course rinsing before returning home to do an ONR wash to remove the road film that was left behind. I followed the ONR wash with a thin misting of ONR as a lube for the "Ultima Elastrofoam" decontamination bar. (Of this product I will say as long as this is available, I will never buy another clay bar but that's a whole other review) To ensure absolute clean working conditions for my review I did an additional mist of ONR and wiped the area clean with a brand new microfiber towel.
I used the entire trunk lid of this Solara as my test section working the entire trunk lid for my section passes.
Here is a before photo of the test section as stated in my written review, with only the flash of the camera to illuminate the paint defects.
To ensure a fair assessment of the product, I used the exact same pad that I normally use to compound paint with. Of course the pad was clean and brushed before adding the compound.
I first applied this much product to the pad and rubbed it in to prime the pad. i added just a little more around the outer edge of the pad to ensure that 100% of the face of the pad was primed as I normally do when working with M-105.
Here is the pad fully primed with product.
I then added a few peanut M&M sized portions of Master Cut to the pad before beginning my section passes.
I then proceeded to do 4 complete section passes at 1200 R.P.M. with a slow arm speed (about 2 inches of arm movement per second) using the entire trunk lid as my test section. When using M-105 I would have gotten 2 section passes and then lightly misted water on the entire section as a wetting agent to complete the next 2 section passes. With "Master Cut" Super Cut Compound, no wetting agents were required to achieve 4 slow section passes.
Here is a photo of what the panel looked like after working the product to a near invisible state. What you see on the paint in the photo is actually the product residue left behind and not swirl marks. The product obviously was not wiped off at this point.
Here are 2 photos of me wiping the left over product off of the paint. Wipe off was very easy and there was no smudging or rainbow looking polishing oils left behind after wiping. I had the towel folded in fours and wiped the entire panel once and then flipped the towel over to a clean side and wiped the entire panel a second time to reveal a surprisingly nice and glossy finish with just a very slight trace of polishing marks that were only revealed by the illumination of the camera's flash. (remember it was overcast with cloud cover during my test.)
Here are a few photos of the test section after wiping the product clean. The first showing the light amount of dusting produced in 4 section passes.
This next photo is after completely wiping the product and light dust from the panel.
Next is a photo of the gloss and clarity of reflection achieved by my 4 section passes.
This next photo concludes my review of Poorboy's World "Master Cut" Super Cut Compound. The photo is of my pad after the 4 section passes. The product stayed right on the face of the pad (right where I want it) and was in a non tacky state but not so dried that paint marring had occurred. Upon brushing the spent product from the pad with the machine turned off and then starting the machine at 1200 R.P.M. and holding the brush against the pad moving the brush from the centering hole to the outer edge of the pad the pad was as clean as it was before I first primed it to begin this test.
Then the rains came and ruined my fun.
Here is the view from my front porch upon wrapping things up for the day. As you can see, there is a strip of tape right down the center of the hood. I did 2 complete section passes to each half of the driver's side of the hood and nothing to the passenger's side of the hood. I will take a few photos of this 50/50 test and post them up in this thread once the sun comes back out.
Thanks for reading through my review of a great product. TD
First I'd like to thank the great folks at Autogeek for sending me a bottle of this product to test out and give my honest thoughts and findings.
Secondly I'd like to thank Steve A.K.A. Poorboy and Chris A.K.A. Pockets. (Steve's trusty sidekick and warehouse manager)
Shortly after I first started detailing cars, I chose Poorboy's World Polishing and Detailing Products because I was always working in direct sunlight. I found all of the Poorboy's World products to be very easy to work with and very easy to remove in the hot sun.
I spent a lot of time testing out different Poorboy's World products and I also spent a lot of time in the chat room over at Detail City (now autopiaforum.com) chatting with Steve and the gang, picking Steve's brain about his products and which ones would be best for what situation. Steve was always very helpful and had never failed to give me his advice and or suggestions on what to do regarding his products, he was even willing to do this over the phone when I called him. I had the pleasure of attending a few of the Poorboy's World Detailing Weekends where I was able to put Steve's advice and the experience that I had gained in testing his products to use in helping a lot of the other attendees to get their cars straightened out and learn about detailing in general.
Steve is a gracious host to say the least. I used Poorboy's World Products almost exclusively for the first 2 years that I detailed cars. I find the Poorboy's World products to be on the safe side hence very easy for beginners to learn with and attain great results with. It wasn't until I had begun to get real busy with a volume of production details requiring a very fast cutting nice finishing compound that through necessity I had begun to look in another direction for my compounds and polishes.
OK, on to the review.
First off, today was a overcast day with no direct sunlight at all so my photos reflect the paint defects in my test sections by using the cameras flash only. The temperature was around 90 degrees. I will add to this thread additional cars being worked on in the sun using Master Cut at a later date.
I had the opportunity to test out the Poorboy's SYN 1 in the past which honestly didn't thrill me at all as it was too slow cutting and way too dusty so when I got to test Master Cut today I was pleased with it's performance. This concludes my review. Thanks for reading it.
No Just Kidding. :rofl
Packaging and labeling:
The bottle is a typical clear bottle used for all other Poorboy's World products. I like these bottles as they are sturdy with a flip top cap that never gets clogged with dried product. I have wondered in the past however if the clear plastic may allow the sun to cause any adverse effects on the products inside. I have found some of the other polishes and compounds that are packaged in these clear bottles to thin out in the summer months and never regain their thicker viscosity no matter how much you shake them. Let's hope that "Master Cut" Super Cut Compound doesn't turn out to be one of those products.
The labeling is the standard Poorboy's World labeling, nothing flashy or hyped about it at all. Very easy to read and understand with clear directions.
Smell and consistency:
Unlike most Poorboy's World products, Master Cut has no distinct smell.
The consistency of the product is somewhat on the thicker side, very similar to that of M-105.
Product behavior and workability:
I really like the fact that the product is a bit on the thick side as while testing it out using my rotary polisher I experienced a product that was thick enough to stay near the surface of the pad as a primer to the pad so that not much of the product absorbed deeply into the pad, allowing for more of the product to do the work at cutting the paint evenly and with no noticeable product sling.
"Master Cut" Super Cut Compound has an extremely long working time compared to the compound (M-105) that I normally use. I experienced very little dusting with Master Cut and was able to get 4 complete section passes with it before the product worked down to a near invisible state, making for very easy spent product removal.
What I noticed left on my orange light cutting pad at the end of 4 complete section passes was a thin, even crusting of spent product/abraded off clear paint mixture that easily brushed off of the pad using my nylon, somewhat thick bristled denture brush. After brushing the spent product from the pad, the pad was very clean.
At one point in my testing of "Master Cut" Super Cut Compound, I intentionally applied too much product to the pad to see if the product would sling or clump up and stick to the paint in thick proportions as some other compounds will. This was done on a panel separate from the one shown in this review and the results of this test were that the product did not sling nor did it clump up and stick to the paint in thick proportions.
Paradoxically, the product had spread evenly across the large test section and after working half of the test section until the product had worked down to a nearly invisible state, I was then able to go back to the other side of the test section and pick the product up into my pad and work it down to a near invisible state as well as it had not dried up while working the first half of the test section.
To my surprise, even after allowing the product to sit while I worked the first half of the test section, the product did not clump up or dust excessively.
Cut and Finish:
The cutting ability of Master cut is very similar to that of M-105 with a very slight edge going to M-105. While "Master Cut" Super Cut Compound takes slightly longer to achieve the results as does M-105, the pleasant working attributes of Master Cut makes it a product that I would choose over M-105.
The finishing abilities of "Master Cut" Super Cut Compound in my opinion are that the finish is ever so slightly less refined than that of M-105 in that there were very slight traces of pad/product swirls left behind in an otherwise surprisingly glossy black finish. Again though, The difference is so slight that with the pleasant workability attributes of Master Cut, I'd be reaching for Master Cut over M-105. I have no doubt in my mind that if worked on a white or silver painted vehicle, "Master Cut" Super Cut Compound could, with good technique finish wax ready.
In Summary:
I have to congratulate Steve and the guys over at Poorboy's World because in my personal opinion, I believe that they nailed an out of the park home run with "Master Cut" Super Cut Compound. This is a product that I feel is effective enough for the seasoned high volume professional recon guys and easy enough for the beginning driveway enthusiast to use (with the use of common sense of course) in conjunction with a finishing polish and good technique to achieve a flawless finish on their daily drivers or garage queens. Now keep in mind that the weather was overcast with temperatures in the low nineties during this first testing session. I will do further testing in direct sunlight conditions and on other paint systems with this product and post my findings in this thread. Thanks for reading my review, TD
Now onto some photographs.
Here is a photo of the product as shipped to me.
The test vehicle was a 2005 black Toyota Solara with a medium hard clear coat finish.
I first thoroughly washed the test vehicle by doing a pre-soak with Citra-Plus Citrus Degreaser to remove any existing wax or sealant that may have been present and power spraying off the car at the local car wash using the high pressure soap setting then of course rinsing before returning home to do an ONR wash to remove the road film that was left behind. I followed the ONR wash with a thin misting of ONR as a lube for the "Ultima Elastrofoam" decontamination bar. (Of this product I will say as long as this is available, I will never buy another clay bar but that's a whole other review) To ensure absolute clean working conditions for my review I did an additional mist of ONR and wiped the area clean with a brand new microfiber towel.
I used the entire trunk lid of this Solara as my test section working the entire trunk lid for my section passes.
Here is a before photo of the test section as stated in my written review, with only the flash of the camera to illuminate the paint defects.
To ensure a fair assessment of the product, I used the exact same pad that I normally use to compound paint with. Of course the pad was clean and brushed before adding the compound.
I first applied this much product to the pad and rubbed it in to prime the pad. i added just a little more around the outer edge of the pad to ensure that 100% of the face of the pad was primed as I normally do when working with M-105.
Here is the pad fully primed with product.
I then added a few peanut M&M sized portions of Master Cut to the pad before beginning my section passes.
I then proceeded to do 4 complete section passes at 1200 R.P.M. with a slow arm speed (about 2 inches of arm movement per second) using the entire trunk lid as my test section. When using M-105 I would have gotten 2 section passes and then lightly misted water on the entire section as a wetting agent to complete the next 2 section passes. With "Master Cut" Super Cut Compound, no wetting agents were required to achieve 4 slow section passes.
Here is a photo of what the panel looked like after working the product to a near invisible state. What you see on the paint in the photo is actually the product residue left behind and not swirl marks. The product obviously was not wiped off at this point.
Here are 2 photos of me wiping the left over product off of the paint. Wipe off was very easy and there was no smudging or rainbow looking polishing oils left behind after wiping. I had the towel folded in fours and wiped the entire panel once and then flipped the towel over to a clean side and wiped the entire panel a second time to reveal a surprisingly nice and glossy finish with just a very slight trace of polishing marks that were only revealed by the illumination of the camera's flash. (remember it was overcast with cloud cover during my test.)
Here are a few photos of the test section after wiping the product clean. The first showing the light amount of dusting produced in 4 section passes.
This next photo is after completely wiping the product and light dust from the panel.
Next is a photo of the gloss and clarity of reflection achieved by my 4 section passes.
This next photo concludes my review of Poorboy's World "Master Cut" Super Cut Compound. The photo is of my pad after the 4 section passes. The product stayed right on the face of the pad (right where I want it) and was in a non tacky state but not so dried that paint marring had occurred. Upon brushing the spent product from the pad with the machine turned off and then starting the machine at 1200 R.P.M. and holding the brush against the pad moving the brush from the centering hole to the outer edge of the pad the pad was as clean as it was before I first primed it to begin this test.
Then the rains came and ruined my fun.
Here is the view from my front porch upon wrapping things up for the day. As you can see, there is a strip of tape right down the center of the hood. I did 2 complete section passes to each half of the driver's side of the hood and nothing to the passenger's side of the hood. I will take a few photos of this 50/50 test and post them up in this thread once the sun comes back out.
Thanks for reading through my review of a great product. TD
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