Review: Megs #83

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imported_RZJZA80

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I detailed my friend's IS350, it's a dark red color, good condition, swirls and scratches when looked at closely. I only have a PC so I thought I'd give it a try, LC orage pad with the Megs 83, speed 6. I can honestly say it didn't do much of anything except maybe polish a little bit. It did no correction at all. Did I do something wrong here?



I followed with white pad and Megs 21, looked great. I then applied by hand some Collinite 915, and I must say it took to the dark color very well. The 83 was disappointing though.
 
RZJZA80 said:
I detailed my friend's IS350, it's a dark red color, good condition, swirls and scratches when looked at closely. I only have a PC so I thought I'd give it a try, LC orage pad with the Megs 83, speed 6. I can honestly say it didn't do much of anything except maybe polish a little bit. It did no correction at all. Did I do something wrong here?



I followed with white pad and Megs 21, looked great. I then applied by hand some Collinite 915, and I must say it took to the dark color very well. The 83 was disappointing though.
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Probably not. I'm assuming the clear on the IS is hard, I have never done one so I can't say, but I have tried the combo you are talking about on Audi clear and needless to say, nothing happened the first time around. What I suggest is:



1.) Put pressure on the PC, 15-20 lbs.



2.) Overlap your passes by 50%, go right to left then up and down. Work in a 1.5' x 1.5' or smaller space. Go slow.



3.) Step up to a more aggressive compound or polish. If you do not have a more aggressive compound or polish use a stronger pad. If neither is possible then hit the panel 2-4 times. It could be that you are cutting very, very slowly.



4.) Right before your product goes dry, hit the panel with a spritz of water and work it in until the defect is removed or goes clear.



Sorry if this sounds like noob advice or you already knew this, but when I first started on a PC this would let me get ok results on the harder paints.
 
And what others have said... White isn't the best choice for applying a sealant. Try grey/black, blue or red; or, by hand to avoid hazing or micro marring from the white pad.
 
#83 is designed for the rotary. It can work with the DA but it takes time to break it down. Like 5-6 minutes per 3X3 foot area. I use speed 5 too. 6 causes it to flash to quick and you get dust and no correction.
 
I find that with #83 less is better. It seems to cut well when I use very small amounts and clean my pad on some terrycloth toweling frequently. #83 seems to have a lot of lubricating oils in it and as such if you don't clean the pad often it hampers the polishing, IMHO. I've had very consistent results with #83 with either my PC or my Makita. I think it just requires developing some technique.



That said Meg's has a couple of new players in the game and they appear to be worth a try. Look for their new #105/205 combo. Also coming soon from them is an aggressive polish in the consumer line. See Meguiars.com for their new 2009 product announcements.



The new products don't use the "diminishing abrasives technology" but now have micro abrasives and from the early reviews, seems to outperform the #80/#83 pair that are currently my go-to products.
 
this was my first time to try correction, so i learned a lot and now know what I did wrong. I think I should have used a 4" pad instead of 5.5" pad. Also, a slower speed because 6 did dry out the product fast and the flakes went flying everywhere. I also was pretty liberal with the product, so I'll use less next time.



One thing though, it really tore up my orange pad, no chance to resuse that one
 
I use megs 83 and a 5.5" orange with the PC all the time. Its my go to for simple two steps. Not as much dusting as IP, but a touch less cut. use pressure and speed 6 only, 5 will get you nowhere fast! I get about 2 min working time with 83 and pressure, which is enough for most damage.



Keep in mind, the PC is not good at removing SCRATCHES, but rather just swirl marks and oxidation. you will need the rotary if you want to remove scratches in a timely manner.
 
RZJZA80 said:
this was my first time to try correction, so i learned a lot and now know what I did wrong. I think I should have used a 4" pad instead of 5.5" pad. Also, a slower speed because 6 did dry out the product fast and the flakes went flying everywhere. I also was pretty liberal with the product, so I'll use less next time.



One thing though, it really tore up my orange pad, no chance to resuse that one
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Erm, if it was your first time I don't think the word "Review" should be in the title ;)
 
RZJZA80 said:
I wished I knew that lol. I went by the recommended uses on the pad plastic. What's white pad good for?



Sorry not 21, I meant 26
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Either 21 or 26 should be applied by grey/black or red pads OR by hand.



White is generally used for polishing out lighter scratches and swirls with a fine polish like 106FF/FA.
 
toyotaguy said:
I use megs 83 and a 5.5" orange with the PC all the time. Its my go to for simple two steps. Not as much dusting as IP, but a touch less cut. use pressure and speed 6 only, 5 will get you nowhere fast! I get about 2 min working time with 83 and pressure, which is enough for most damage.



Keep in mind, the PC is not good at removing SCRATCHES, but rather just swirl marks and oxidation. you will need the rotary if you want to remove scratches in a timely manner.
Click to expand...



x10...Could not agree more.
 
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