Resurrecting 2007 Escalade....Again!

[richy]

This vehicle belongs to a great customer who is always enthusiastically sending people my way. I had done the car for him in November of 2016, about 18 months ago. Those months had been hard on it. During this long, brutal winter, a broom had been used to remove the snow from the hood. There were many marks that were just not worth chasing...not worth thinning out the paint. I`m a big advocate for intelligent correction and not over correction where not needed.

Here it is last time:

https://www.autopia.org/forums/clic...alade-probably-season.html?highlight=escalade


This time he had a new set of wheels for it and I was going to coat those first and then move on to the paint. Here are the new wheels and the condition of the vehicle:

First up was the wash. I only did the outside of the old wheels as I was going to be replacing them with the new, coated ones. It was clayed with a clay towel. Here are some shots of the paint after being thoroughly cleaned:

As you can see, deep swirls and linear scratches.


First up was to coat the wheels. They got an ONR wipedown followed by DG Squeaky clean.

Here`s how one wheel looked after the Squeaky Clean stage:

The barrel was then coated with DLux:

The faces were done with Feynlab Wheel and Caliper:

Part of what I do when I pull wheels is to add anti-seize to the lugs and around the face. You can see here that it needed it badly:

Here it is after the anti-seize:

The wells needed some attention too:

Here it is treated with a product I use:

The paint was given a 2 step M100 + TB (or 3D) black wool + 3401. That was followed by a white CarPro gloss pad + 205 + 3401.


Here`s a shot after polishing and before being coated:

This time, and wisely so, he chose to go with Feynlab Self Heal Lite. That was topped with Top Coat. They were back in love with their Escalade again!!

Thanks for looking!

 

[David D]

Great work

 

[richy]

Great work

Thanks kindly David.

 

[DaveT435]

For some reason some or all of your pictures won`t load on my iPad...I`m sure it looks incredible, I would really like to see it. I`ve had this problem with your pics before, usually a couple will load and the rest won`t. Are posting them directly to the site, or going through another site to post them?

 

[richy]

For some reason some or all of your pictures won`t load on my iPad...I`m sure it looks incredible, I would really like to see it. I`ve had this problem with your pics before, usually a couple will load and the rest won`t. Are posting them directly to the site, or going through another site to post them?

Weird? I`m using Imgur.

 

[rlmccarty2000]

Great work! Lots of real estate to correct. The pics load fine on my iPad.

 

[richy]

Great work! Lots of real estate to correct. The pics load fine on my iPad.

Thanks! Over 26 hours on that bad boy.

 

[WT Taggart]

Nice work as always Richy, it’s always a great Monday morning seeing your detailing posted. Thanks for sharing sir.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[RaydiantDetail]

Great work!

 

[Lonnie]

Great work on the Escalade.

On word of "caution", when removing wheels/rims for detailing (or tire rotation and wheel balancing) that the lug nuts be re-tightened after 500 miles or so of vehicle travel, especially with mag wheels. Adding anti-seize compound may be a good thing to keep the rim from sticking to the brake disc face, especially in winter environments that use road salt or other de-icers that cause corrosion, BUT it may have a slight impact on lug nut torque readings. I think MOST car manufacturers lug nut torque specifications are for BARE threads (not oiled or lubricated) so small amount of over-torque may be needed to "properly` get them to the correct "tightness". Personally , I think it is an EXCELLENT idea to add anti-seize to lug nut threads to vehicles driven year-round. While flat tires are rare these days, having to remove a "stuck" lug nut or rusted-on rim-to-disc face during such a road-side emergency can be near impossible with a vehicle manufacturer`s tire changing tools included in the trunk for such an emergency. Plus, vehicle service techs LOVE it, as it makes their job that much easier for routine vehicle inspections or repairs. As stated, just check and maybe re-tighten the lug nuts after 500 miles of vehicle use. I think many owner`s manuals may state that as a required safety procedure.

Here`s a road-side emergency service tip I learned from a shade-tree mechanic: If you encounter a frozen lug or wheel rim, pour regular Coke-Cola over it and wait five minutes. The phosphoric acid in Coke will "dissolve" the rust, allowing the frozen lug nut or rim to be removed ( rusting within reason). Most drivers do not carry Liquid Wrench or other rust penetrant with them, but regular Coke can be had almost anywhere. My personal rust penetrant of choice: Keno Laboratories` Kroil Penetrating Oil.

 

[Sizzle Chest]

Richy, nice work on that tank!!! Looks great!!!

 

[TheMeanGreen]

Great work on the Escalade.

On word of "caution", when removing wheels/rims for detailing (or tire rotation and wheel balancing) that the lug nuts be re-tightened after 500 miles or so of vehicle travel, especially with mag wheels. Adding anti-seize compound may be a good thing to keep the rim from sticking to the brake disc face, especially in winter environments that use road salt or other de-icers that cause corrosion, BUT it may have a slight impact on lug nut torque readings. I think MOST car manufacturers lug nut torque specifications are for BARE threads (not oiled or lubricated) so small amount of over-torque may be needed to "properly` get them to the correct "tightness". Personally , I think it is an EXCELLENT idea to add anti-seize to lug nut threads to vehicles driven year-round. While flat tires are rare these days, having to remove a "stuck" lug nut or rusted-on rim-to-disc face during such a road-side emergency can be near impossible with a vehicle manufacturer`s tire changing tools included in the trunk for such an emergency. Plus, vehicle service techs LOVE it, as it makes their job that much easier for routine vehicle inspections or repairs. As stated, just check and maybe re-tighten the lug nuts after 500 miles of vehicle use. I think many owner`s manuals may state that as a required safety procedure.

Here`s a road-side emergency service tip I learned from a shade-tree mechanic: If you encounter a frozen lug or wheel rim, pour regular Coke-Cola over it and wait five minutes. The phosphoric acid in Coke will "dissolve" the rust, allowing the frozen lug nut or rim to be removed ( rusting within reason). Most drivers do not carry Liquid Wrench or other rust penetrant with them, but regular Coke can be had almost anywhere. My personal rust penetrant of choice: Keno Laboratories` Kroil Penetrating Oil.

500 Miles? Then why don`t dealership`s, Indy shop`s, and tire stores tell people to come back after 500 miles for re-torqing?

And for Kriol, check this out: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YeTNXbDbHcM

Just don`t get lost in the rest of his video`s

 

[richy]

Nice work as always Richy, it’s always a great Monday morning seeing your detailing posted. Thanks for sharing sir.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you for taking the time to comment Sir!

Great work!

Thanks kindly Ryan!

Great work on the Escalade.

On word of "caution", when removing wheels/rims for detailing (or tire rotation and wheel balancing) that the lug nuts be re-tightened after 500 miles or so of vehicle travel, especially with mag wheels. Adding anti-seize compound may be a good thing to keep the rim from sticking to the brake disc face, especially in winter environments that use road salt or other de-icers that cause corrosion, BUT it may have a slight impact on lug nut torque readings. I think MOST car manufacturers lug nut torque specifications are for BARE threads (not oiled or lubricated) so small amount of over-torque may be needed to "properly` get them to the correct "tightness". Personally , I think it is an EXCELLENT idea to add anti-seize to lug nut threads to vehicles driven year-round. While flat tires are rare these days, having to remove a "stuck" lug nut or rusted-on rim-to-disc face during such a road-side emergency can be near impossible with a vehicle manufacturer`s tire changing tools included in the trunk for such an emergency. Plus, vehicle service techs LOVE it, as it makes their job that much easier for routine vehicle inspections or repairs. As stated, just check and maybe re-tighten the lug nuts after 500 miles of vehicle use. I think many owner`s manuals may state that as a required safety procedure.

Here`s a road-side emergency service tip I learned from a shade-tree mechanic: If you encounter a frozen lug or wheel rim, pour regular Coke-Cola over it and wait five minutes. The phosphoric acid in Coke will "dissolve" the rust, allowing the frozen lug nut or rim to be removed ( rusting within reason). Most drivers do not carry Liquid Wrench or other rust penetrant with them, but regular Coke can be had almost anywhere. My personal rust penetrant of choice: Keno Laboratories` Kroil Penetrating Oil.

Lonnie,
Thanks for the comment. I do it to my own vehicles and have never had an issue with one loosening up. Mine are always so easy to undo with no rusting.

Richy, nice work on that tank!!! Looks great!!!

Thanks Scott!