Replacement for KAIO?

C

charlieo

New member
Hi all,

It`s been a while since I`ve been on here, while I like taking care of my car, I`ve always tried to do it as simply as possible.
Currently, I wash with the 2-bucket method, I have Sonus Swirlbuster on hand if I think the car needs it, but typically I`ve been using KAIO followed by either S100 in summer or Collinite 885 in the winter. I use a Porter Cable 7424XP.

I`d like to try the FK1000P, but will probably wait until I`m out of waxes. I`m guessing this product is more similar to KSG than car wax? (2nd question)
BTW, I`ve never used the KSG, it sounded like it might be a pain to work with, and multiple coats ain`t happening!

Main question: I am running out of KAIO and wondering if I should try something else?
I have no problem with the KAIO, easy enough to use, but if there`s another AIO that cleans and protects as well and is somehow easier to work with, I`m interested.
I`m guessing that based on my regimen, cleaning is a primary consideration as far as what I`m using for this pre-wax (or eventually) pre-FK1000P step.

Thanks for any suggestions.
 
Blackfire one step gets a lot of love on autogeek. 3D speed is popular has well.

I have gyeon primer but its very light in cut and more geared for sio2 products as the last step protection.

In all honestly i think you will get more out of your wax if you use 3D one or sonax perfect finish for example. To keep things simple if i was using an AIO all the time i would probably pickup a quality spray wax. There are hundreds i have polish angels rapidwaxx and high gloss. Very pricey however but unique look.

Good luck, lots of ways you can go thats for sure.
 
I`d suggest Mothers CMX ceramic 3 in 1 with Acrylic, It seems to have some cut if you use an aggressive pad and lays down some protection.
 
wannafbody said:
I`d suggest Mothers CMX ceramic 3 in 1 with Acrylic, It seems to have some cut if you use an aggressive pad and lays down some protection.
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I forgot about acrylic all in ones. Another option. :)

xtreme solutions foam glaze is another acrylic AIO that some people really likes. They recommend you wait 24 hours before applying a wax however.
 
I don`t think there is currently a direct replacement for KAIO. It`s just such a flexible product. I love it on black plastic trim. It also is second to none in removing oxidation without abrasives.

If you want a solid paint prep before a sealant or wax, or even coating, Mothers Step 1 will leave your paint squeaky clean.
 
Duragloss 105 or 501 they are very similar no real cut and more cleaning protection. For me 3D speed, megs151 blackfire had more noticeable abrasives but less protection. I always loved the duragloss line great gloss.
 
charlieo said:
It`s been a while since I`ve been on here, while I like taking care of my car, I`ve always tried to do it as simply as possible...
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I like the sound of that!

I`d like to try the FK1000P,..
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You probably already know how I feel about the FK ;)

I`m guessing this product is more similar to KSG than car wax? (2nd question)
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I dunno if I`d go that far as the two products look and behave very differently IME. BUT...yeah, it`s a (paste) synthetic/sealant and not a "natural" wax.

BTW, I`ve never used the KSG, it sounded like it might be a pain to work with, and multiple coats ain`t happening!
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That`s perhaps the main reason I switched from KSG X 6 to FK1000P: I can avoid doing all those layers (and I sure prefer the look of the FK too).

Main question: I am running out of KAIO and wondering if I should try something else?
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I`ve pretty much switched to ZAIO for my pre-FK1000 product, but there`s sure nothing wrong with the KAIO and if I could only have *one* of the two I`d have to give it a whole lotta thought (and I`d end up buying both ;) ).

The KAIO works great on trim and doesn`t leave "white stains". IMO it`s about as user-friendly as AIOs get, just use a damp applicator and thin THIN *THIN* applications, and avoid overworking it.

Either/both are fine under the FK.

Thanks for any suggestions.
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FWIW, just as a straightforward answer to "what to buy?" I`d lean towards not fixing what isn`t broken, IOW, just buy more KAIO.
 
William_Wallace said:
Duragloss 105 or 501 they are very similar no real cut and more cleaning protection. For me 3D speed, megs151 blackfire had more noticeable abrasives but less protection. I always loved the duragloss line great gloss.
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I love Duragloss too, but try 501 vs KAIO on oxidized black wiper arms and it’s night and day. KAIO makes them like new with minimal effort. Same with hard black trim.
 
Hi Accumulator, I remember you from years ago, glad to see you`re still on here.

I wound up getting more KAIO, I figure it`s cleaning I`m primarily after, I`ll just have to be more deliberate as far as following with a protective coat of wax/ 1000P.

Though I appreciate the zen-like qualities of hand application/removal, in order to be able to use my hands the next day I tend to at least apply with a pad: would it help in any way to go up 1 level in aggressiveness, or is that not going to help KAIO since it apparently cleans very well to begin with? I also wonder if the more aggressive pad might cause problems: not sure this tells you what you need to know, but I use SFX Orange and Lake Country Green pads, which are the appropriate pads to the best of my knowledge.

Lastly: do you have a recommended way to get a paste wax onto a pad? My method is something other than sophisticated! :)

Thanks for the considered reply and to all for their input. This forum continues to rock!
 
charlieo:
What is your "not so sophisticated" method to get paste wax on a pad??

For what it is worth, here`s some things to consider using paste wax on a pad with a buffing machine:
1)The tin diameter the wax is packaged in. Obviously, bigger is better.
2) The applicator pad diameter. Smaller is better, seeing how it needs to fit into the wax tin.
I use a 4" red or black foam Lake Country pad with a Porter-Cable DA that can get into the can, but not always.
3) Soften the wax in the can tin by either putting it in the sun in warmer weather to heat it up OR in cooler weather (50°F or lower) use a hair dryer and heat it up a little.
4) I like using a butter knife to wipe the wax from the tin and then spread it out on the pad. Not too much because with wax, thin is better. Using your fingers may seem `better" in cooler weather because the heat of your hands softens the wax, but is a mess when handling the P-C buffer. The plus side is that it does soften your hands and fingers like a hand lotion, especially in cooler weather!
5) Use the slow speed 1 or 2 on the P-C DA and let the weight of the buffer spread it out; you do not have to bear down on the buffer, moving in long overlapping linear strokes where possible. Yes, I do hand apply wax in areas not easily accessible with the buffer and its 4" pad.
6) Depending on the wax you use, don`t over spread it on too much of an area. I like the wax-on-wipe-off immediately wax, like Collinite 915. Yes, some waxes need a little time to haze or "set up" (cure), but most carnauba waxes are wipe off immediately in warm weather or in 2 or 3 minute after its application in cooler weather.
There are wax application horror stories galore about someone who applied wax to their whole vehicle, then started to remove it where they began, and it was 20 minutes later, only to find it had dried like concrete and was a real bear to remove. That is true whether doing wax application by hand or machine.
 
Hi Lonnie,

I use a larger pad which doesn`t fit, but #4 on your list covers everything exactly: I`ve used fingers (too messy), or transferred from the included applicator to the pad. I did think about a butter knife or something similar, maybe a well-made plastic putty knife of sorts.

As to #6, I remember ~40 years ago waxing my brother`s green Fiat as an (infrequent) gesture of brotherly love, only to find that removal wasn`t much of an option. The car was used and I seem to recall that the paint job appeared less-than-professional, but either way, he likes to remind me of that from time to time!
 
Dan said:
I love Duragloss too, but try 501 vs KAIO on oxidized black wiper arms and it’s night and day. KAIO makes them like new with minimal effort..
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Hey, I found that interesting, if only because I don`t know from 501 but *do* know that it`s popular here.
 
charlieo said:
Hi Accumulator, I remember you from years ago, glad to see you`re still on here...
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Heh heh, yeah...still here :D
I wound up getting more KAIO, I figure it`s cleaning I`m primarily after, I`ll just have to be more deliberate as far as following with a protective coat of wax/ 1000P.
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OK, and it does work fine under the FK.

Though I appreciate the zen-like qualities of hand application/removal, in order to be able to use my hands the next day I tend to at least apply with a pad: would it help in any way to go up 1 level in aggressiveness, or is that not going to help KAIO since it apparently cleans very well to begin with? I also wonder if the more aggressive pad might cause problems: not sure this tells you what you need to know, but I use SFX Orange and Lake Country Green pads, which are the appropriate pads to the best of my knowledge...
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While neither of those pads is on my (out-of-date) radar, my take on all such AOIing stuff is to NEVER use a pad that might instill micromarring. So I wouldn`t use most orange pads (i.e., Light Cutting Orange pads). BUT I do use Polishing pads and not uber-soft Finishing ones (e.g., LC Black). It sounds to me like you`re on the right track since you`re being concerned about the pads being too aggressive.

Lastly: do you have a recommended way to get a paste wax onto a pad? My method is something other than sophisticated! :)
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I usually use a plastic razor blade, as I find it easier than spatulas/etc. If using a 4" pad, you can often just jam it into the tin. Heh heh, my method probably isn`t too sophisticated either, but hey...simple and crude can be OK too. As they said at some Driving Schools, "it doesn`t have to be pretty, it just has to work".
Thanks for the considered reply..
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"Considered" sounds a lot nicer than "long-winded" ;)

and to all for their input.,,
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Just a FWIW, and one that had me scratching my head: I was digging Lonnie`s reply (per usual) then I saw that he runs his machine a lot slower than I do (meaning, different choices can all work fine) and that he can have trouble if he applies to the whole vehicle before buffing off (which I do almost all the time with paste LSPs), which might be a matter of my nutty-thin applications, so maybe it`s best to do it his way unless you *know* you`ll be OK with mine.

This forum continues to rock!
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Indeed :D
 
Sounds like you might really enjoy Duragloss 101. It has a very light diminishing abrasive in it, so it cleans chemically, and a little with abrasives. But it also has some hardcore protection. Slightly less cut than 501, but way better protection package. It`s not going to cut like the modern generation, but none of them can compete with the durability of 101.

Also, the gloss it leaves is wet, and deep. If I use 101, I can maintain with Aquawax, and/or add a layer of 111. In the summer I used to top with a Zymol wax, but whatever you like will work.
 
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