removing swirls with PC

I

imported_arenner80

New member
I used PB ssr2.5 w/ orange cutting pad and PC on my 2001 GMC (pewter) to remove the light swirls. I have made 1 pass and noticed no difference at all. Should I run another pass or is there a different swirl remover that will work better? thanks
 
What speed on your pc?

and define your one pass?



there are alot of variable one you may not have broke down the polish, speed of the pc, movement across the paint with the pc,pressure,pad all play role
 
This IS the first time I have used a PC, I am sorry about not mentioning that.



I am pretty sure the 2.5 broke down enough

I used and orange light cutting pad on 5, and kept firm pressure on it throughout.



now i have a question about the breaking down of the polish. Will there be any polish or residue on the vehicle that will need to be wiped off with a microfiber towel, or will breaking the polish down completely dust it off.
 
arenner80 said:
This IS the first time I have used a PC, I am sorry about not mentioning that..
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No Problemo, no need to apoligize where all hear to help :hifive:







arenner80 said:
I am pretty sure the 2.5 broke down enough.
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arenner80 said:
I used and orange light cutting pad on 5, and kept firm pressure on it throughout..
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this is my method again other may have slight variation i apply the product to my pad then place the pad against the panel turn on the pc # 3 with light pressure to spread the product in a 2 x 2 section once its spread i turn it up to # 5, 6 then apply about 15 pounds of pressure just enough to were it spinning and jigglying and the motion is up and down then left to right then diagnoly(corner to corner) as the polish changes stage i lighten up the pressure







arenner80 said:
now i have a question about the breaking down of the polish. Will there be any polish or residue on the vehicle that will need to be wiped off with a microfiber towel, or will breaking the polish down completely dust it off.
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yes there must be polish left never dry buff (which means you buff till there no produt between the pad and the panel) why because you will scratch the panels..so yes there must be some polish left and will need to wipe off



instead of me explaining, not that i dont mind too... I try to help when i can ...here a great site to help you if you have some concerns like you ask ...BlkYukon site



this site has the polish in diff stage as its breaking down to give you an idea...this site is very informative.....and includes videos
 
thanks for the replies. So I should just slow down, work 2' x 2' sections at a time going back and forth, up and down and stopping before the ssr 2.5 starts dusting.
 
arenner80- My '00 beater-Blazer is pewter and I bet we have the same paint. The clear is kinda tough, and IMO you really need a 4" pad setup and a pretty aggressive product. I ended up getting out the rotary, but I did play around a little with the PC first just to see if it could do the job.



With a 4" orange cutting pad and a mix of High-Temp Extreme Cut with a little 1Z Ultra to increase the work time (both about as aggressive as you can use by PC), I could do some OK correction if I went over and over the areas in question. Very slow going, it didn't make the marring go away after only 15 minutes per area. One pass? More like six or eight if the marring's bad enough.



With a larger pad (I assume you're using a 6.5" pad) and a milder product (I'm pretty sure the SSR 2.5 is a lot milder than what I used), you might not get the results you're after. The 4" pads make an incredible difference in my experience.



As Djmigs said, don't work the product until it's dry. It takes a little experience to tell when it's broken down (visual cue: most products get somewhat translucent at that point), but that's when you want to buff it off. It should still be just a little wet.
 
So, if my clear coat is at hard as you say would I be better to use something that fills rather than removes the swirls?

If so, what product should I use. I was reading a post that tested Autoglym and it looked like the best to use, and of course with what pad, and what speed.

should I continue to top with klasse AIO if I use a Autoglym or similar?
 
arenner80 said:
So, if my clear coat is at hard as you say would I be better to use something that fills rather than removes the swirls?

If so, what product should I use. I was reading a post that tested Autoglym and it looked like the best to use, and of course with what pad, and what speed.

should I continue to top with klasse AIO if I use a Autoglym or similar?
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I dunno if I can answer that fill/remove Q for you...in my case I removed all the flaws that were light enough for filling. I guess I'd recommend that you strike a middle-of-the-road balance. Correct what you can but don't use products that only look OK on perfect finishes (i.e., products like the Klasse twins).



Yeah, Autoglym's SRP is better (IMO) on imperfect finishes than AIO. SRP with a heavy carnauba topper is what I've used for years on vehicles I can't/won't get all that nice. It's great for friends/family daily drivers, for instance.



You use the SRP *in place of* the AIO. It doesn't clean as well as AIO but it looks better (IMO) on imperfect finishes. I genuinely like SRP, even it's sorta weird odor (reminds me of oil paints and art classes from childhood for some reason). It does dust a little but it's no biggie.



In your shoes, I'd use a 4" orange light cut pad with H-T EC mixed with a little bit of Optimum Car Polish. When you're tired of doing that switch to a polishing pad with just Optimum. It'll look a lot better at that point. Then apply SRP, let it sit for a day or so, and top with Collinite wax. I know that everybody has their preferences and I hate to give a "buy these products" type of reply, but honestly, that's exactly what I'd do. The H-T EC could be replaced by the milder H-T Heavy Cut, but with just one aggressive product and the Optimum you oughta be OK for polishes.



There are other approaches I could think of, I'll mention one, the one I used on my Blazer:

H-T EC with a little 1Z Ultra *or* with a little 1Z Paint Polish instead, then the 1Z Paint Polish by itself, top with Collinite. The 1Z Paint Polish is used instead of both the Optimum and the SRP. Not sure how it'd work if you subsituted the 1Z Paint polish for the 1Z Ultra that I used, but it'll just make for a milder combo and it oughta work fine other than being a little more gentle. The 1Z PP has waxes in it and they do a bit of filling.



One thing I noticed was that the trim on my Blazer (which might be the same as the trim on your GMC) is 1Z polish-friendly; no white stains! I applied 1Z Paint Polish to the black trim and then applied Collinite 845 IW over that. Looked nice and black, still does a few months later.



So I'd definitely get: the 4" orange pads, either H-T EC or HC, and then either OCP and SRP or 1Z PP. Top with wax, preferably something trim friendly like 845.
 
So here is what I am going to use and do

my list

4" backing pad(dont have one)

4" light cutting pad

4" polishing pad

High Temp Extreme Cut

Optimum Polish

AutoGlym SRP



I will use 4" LC pad with HT EC/OP mix, make 1 or 2 passes

Next I will use Polish pad with OP

I will Then go over with SRP on 6.5" finish pad

I will possibly add 2nd coat of SRP

I will top with wax (right now I have some Nattys Paste which comes off hard and a bottle of NXT that I like)
 
So here is what I am going to use and do

my list

4" backing pad(dont have one)

4" light cutting pad

4" polishing pad

High Temp Extreme Cut

Optimum Polish

AutoGlym SRP



I will use 4" LC pad with HT EC/OP mix, make 1 or 2 passes

Next I will use Polish pad with OP

I will Then go over with SRP on 6.5" finish pad

I will possibly add 2nd coat of SRP

I will top with wax (right now I have some Nattys Paste which comes off hard and a bottle of NXT that I like)
 
So here is what I am going to use and do

my list

4" backing pad(dont have one)

4" light cutting pad

4" polishing pad

High Temp Extreme Cut

Optimum Polish

AutoGlym SRP



I will use 4" LC pad with HT EC/OP mix, make 1 or 2 passes

Next I will use Polish pad with OP

I will Then go over with SRP on 6.5" finish pad

I will possibly add 2nd coat of SRP

I will top with wax (right now I have some Nattys Paste which comes off hard and a bottle of NXT that I like)
 
You might be able to use a 6.5" polishing pad with the OCP, haven't tried it myself. Get a few extra pads anyhow, I think you'll be glad you did.



If you want to apply the SRP twice let it set up overnight and apply the second one *very* gently or it'll just clean off what the first one left behind. I'm probably the only person alive who thinks there's a benefit from doing the SRP twice :o



I'd use the Natty's instead of the NXT (actually I'd spend $14 or so for some Collinite ;) ). Put the wax on thin and it'll buff off pretty easily. I'd get a finishing pad and apply the wax via PC (speed ~4).



I'd keep the SRP off your trim unless you find it *does not* stain it. I'd expect it to stain, at least if you leave it on until it dries completely. It doesn't always do it for me, but I'd still be careful.



I bet you'll need more than two passes with the EC/OCP mix, maybe a lot more (sorry, I know that's a bummer). Just don't try to speed things up by pressing really hard or otherwise getting too aggressive. The EC/4" orange combo is kinda aggressive and you *can* do damage with it. Keep the PC moving and check that you don't get the paint really hot. Let it take the time it takes, and it might take a lot of it. Don't switch to the OCP until things are about the way you want them to end up, it should just be removing the micromarring from the EC.
 
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