Removing Klasse SG

T

Taubs

New member
Following on from the wonderful advice from this forum, I bought both Klasse AIO and SG.



Firstly applied Pinnacle XTM UltraFine Swirl remover with a PC and then Klasse AIO, All was going well at this stage, apart from the finish had a slightly milky appearance, not the beginnings of the deep shine I was expecting.

Buffed the AIO off with a Sonus MF bonnet and applied the SG. Not sure if I maybe put too much SG, but this stuff seems really hard to remove.

Eventually managed to get the SG off with a polishing MF and some Detail spray, applying P21S over the top.



I'm still not getting the really deep wet look finish that I was expecting with this combination. Vehicle is a BMW in Sapphire Black metallic



Is there something wrong with my process?

Is the Klasse SG usually this difficult to remove or was I using too much?



Thanks in Advance for the Advice.
 
Taubs- Welcome to Autopia!



The first red flag that came to mind was when you said " All was going well at this stage, apart from the finish had a slightly milky appearance, not the beginnings of the deep shine I was expecting..." IMO you need to get the finish just the way you want it *before* you move on to a LSP like KSG. The KSG will seal in the look you have achieved, but it won't add anything much of its own.



Sounds like you needed to do more prep before the AIO. Things oughta look *just right* after the AIO gets buffed off, otherwise you have to go back and redo the prep.



And yeah, you put the SG on too thick, most people do. I put it on so thinly that I can barely see it on the panels, and that's more than enough. I find it helpful to think of it as "bonding at the molecular level"; it's not like "waxing" as most people think of it.



I like to "fog" the surface of the panels with my breath as I buff off the SG, but if you need a detailing spray you have too much on there. It's not just about wasting product, it simply doesn't work as well, let alone as easily, if you put it on thick. People have even had "blooming", where the SG made a haze after a while, when they put it on too thick.
 
Thanks Accumulator,



So what would the reccomendation be on how to start from "scratch" - Excuse the pun ;-)



How do I get back "below" the SG, is it just a matter of using a polish with a light abrasive to remove the SG?
 
I'll sometimes compromise the KSG with some rubbing alcohol. I've had healthy coats of SG gum up my polishing pads and leave a tenacious residue. Not always, but often enough that it's worth mentioning.
 
Just dumped my bottle of SG......results are not worth the effort. There are many other products out there that give better results with less effort. Just one man's opinion on this product.
 
I would dump KSG too, but keep Klass AIO. You have to prep your car really well before KSG. My suggestion is to use Poorboy's EX-P or Wolfgang Deep Gloss Sealant.
 
I have used the Klasse Twins and find that no matter how thin of a layer I use with the SG I always have problems with getting it buffed off. I have heard advise on using a QD to assist with buffing the SG off but I fear that it alters the curing of the SG. I recently started using 4* Ultimate and it's so easy to work with. You can treat your entire vehicle and then go back and buff with coucours towels followed by a MF towel. May be the lazy way out but I have almost given up on SG.
 
I'd at least hold on to the KSG for stuff like the back side of wheels/etc. where durability is the most important thing ;) A few coats of SG make brakedust easy to wash off with just carwash shampoo.
 
SG is mainly my winter coat. Less is better, and a very well prepped surface is essintial. Clay, Polish, the whole nine yards. Done right SG is not bad at all. Durablity is amazing with 3+ layers. Looks could be better, I would not top it with a wax. If I wanted a wax look, I woud just use a wax. IMHO I have never seen a wax wear off, then get the benefits of SG. Other things to think about. Let it dry overnight, it will remove easier, also if you weather is humid and damp, I find it is difficult to remove. FWIW, it's a winter product for me. I like to try a ton of new things in the summer.



reflections are great though



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Steve
 
Accumulator said:
I'd at least hold on to the KSG for stuff like the back side of wheels/etc. where durability is the most important thing ;) A few coats of SG make brakedust easy to wash off with just carwash shampoo.
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Exactly! Just the reason I'm buying it--I'm leaving sealants for the rest of the car up to Werkstatt :woot2:
 
SHICKS said:
Other things to think about. Let it dry overnight, it will remove easier, also if you weather is humid and damp, I find it is difficult to remove.



Steve
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So after applying SG let it sit and wipe it off the next day? Can I also do another coat after I remove it or would you recommend waiting a few hours? Thanks.
 
REaL said:
So after applying SG let it sit and wipe it off the next day? Can I also do another coat after I remove it or would you recommend waiting a few hours? Thanks.
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I find 12 hours enough time for it it cure if the temp and humidity are at reasonable levels. Then yes after you wipe off apply another thin layer. I have found if done right with the 12 + hour wait, Klasse turns out well. It's a time consuming product, but I found after 3 layers, it really looks it's best and protection is maximized. If you still have trouble getting it off. I find misting the surface with cold distilled water help and a thick terry cloth towel really helps. The terrys Meg's make are very nice for removing SG.



Steve
 
Taubs said:
Not sure if I maybe put too much SG, but this stuff seems really hard to remove.
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Classic case of using too much. If it's hard to remove, you've glopped it on too heavily. When done lightly and correctly, you can almost wipe it off with a feather duster. There definately is a learning curve to using SG and other acrylic products. It is not at all like working with a carnuba wax.



All was going well at this stage, apart from the finish had a slightly milky appearance, not the beginnings of the deep shine I was expecting.
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Screech! (sound skidding to a stop). Polished milk never shines. If the car looked like a mess, something is wrong. Putting a shiny agent on top of a milky surface will leave you with the milky surface. You need to address the problem.



Off hand, I'd suspect some rinse issues with the car wash soap. Dawn for example is remarkable at its ability to leave a milky appearance and not rinse off well.
 
I second what trapper said. Find out why the surface looked 'milky'. How did it look after the XTM UltraFine Swirl Remover? Did you work it long enough to break it down? It may be that the abrasives didn't break down and left it slightly hazy - milky - and you locked it in with AIO. :nixweiss
 
REaL said:
So after applying SG let it sit and wipe it off the next day? Can I also do another coat after I remove it or would you recommend waiting a few hours? Thanks.
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Yeah, this is how I usually do it, but you have to have a clean environment so you don't get potentially abrasive dirt/dust on the car. I buff the SG off and immediately apply the next coat if that's what I feel like doing. No need to wait unless you want to do it later.
 
I am perplexed by all of the comments I consistently read about how hard aio and sg are to remove. I think it's pretty commonly known that you do not use thick coats of either, and do not let AIO dry. I've only done 5-6 cars with this combo so far, but have not had issues with either. Then again, I do not use SG as several in this thread have mentioned. I typically allow sg to dry for a few minutes at most, and then wipe it off with a mf towel or even a soft terrycloth using clean sections, without issue. Maybe it's because I received advice from another autopian a while back telling me not to leave SG on too long. As far as I've understood, it needs curing/breathing time between coats, but not bonding time (i.e. leaving the product on for 12 hours). If you use too much or leave it on too long, it is definitely hard to remove. I never remove products using the PC, always by hand..and never have an issue.
 
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