Reload Problems

Ronkh

Wax Waster
This time I diluted it 50/50

I've got water spots, oily holograms, high spot streaks you name it.

Tried ipa wipe = nuttin
tried eraser wipe = nuttin
Tried apc = nuttin

Car looks like crap !!!!!!

HELP

Pics not show well, but you get the idea


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Ron, there has been quite a discussion on this over on CarPro-US. Basically this Reload 2014 v1 is very concentrated but is creating these issues.

The current solution is to apply Reload 50/50 to the paint and then follow it with a "damp" towel with just water on it. Then buff it dry. This should solve most of the issues.

It is my understanding that a revised Reload 2014 v2 is just hitting our shores and fixes these issues.

 

I have not had this issue with Reload org. yet...

I think I would start by trying the same fix as they are suggesting for 2014 v1. And then I would send the 2014v1 back and get it replaced with v2.
 

Ron, there has been quite a discussion on this over on CarPro-US. Basically this Reload 2014 v1 is very concentrated but is creating these issues.

The current solution is to apply Reload 50/50 to the paint and then follow it with a "damp" towel with just water on it. Then buff it dry. This should solve most of the issues.

It is my understanding that a revised Reload 2014 v2 is just hitting our shores and fixes these issues.


Thanks Troy

This is really :( I don't want to have to buff out the whole car before the show
 
Do I spray a lot like in vid, this is what happened when I sprayed lightly, wiped w damp micro, then dried

UHHHGGGGGHHHHHHHHHH


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I tested Reload v2014 on my Kia, and only noted the bit of oiliness, no other issues. Of course we're discussing the earlier version and I hadn't noted any such issues with it.

But with the newer version I found this oily smearing to be quite stubborn, the damp towels, and even trying a couple detailing sprays would not budge it.

Out came the old school bottle of Colly #845 and it "knocked it right out"! LOL And the car looked really great after too as a plus.
 
I tested Reload v2014 on my Kia, and only noted the bit of oiliness, no other issues. Of course we're discussing the earlier version and I hadn't noted any such issues with it.

But with the newer version I found this oily smearing to be quite stubborn, the damp towels, and even trying a couple detailing sprays would not budge it.

Out came the old school bottle of Colly #845 and it "knocked it right out"! LOL And the car looked really great after too as a plus.

Wonder how a coat of synergy or black ice or natty's blue would look
 
I tested Reload v2014 on my Kia, and only noted the bit of oiliness, no other issues. Of course we're discussing the earlier version and I hadn't noted any such issues with it.

But with the newer version I found this oily smearing to be quite stubborn, the damp towels, and even trying a couple detailing sprays would not budge it.

Out came the old school bottle of Colly #845 and it "knocked it right out"! LOL And the car looked really great after too as a plus.

Did you also have what seemed to be high spots/streaks as well ?
 
Wonder how a coat of synergy or black ice or natty's blue would look

130416284003393440.jpg

Not sure, but they might also cut the smeariness you note.

I had me a deja vu with that Reload being greasy, transported back to the 90's, and once using the horrid "Wally World Zymol" on my then Black '94 Lincoln Town Car.

You would've sworn I waxed he car with Crisco Shortening, no number of towels would budge the greasy smearing. Then out came Colly #476 Doublecoat,....perfect.
 
View attachment 14635

Not sure, but they might also cut the smeariness you note.

I had me a deja vu with that Reload being greasy, transported back to the 90's, and once using the horrid "Wally World Zymol" on my then Black '94 Lincoln Town Car.

You would've sworn I waxed he car with Crisco Shortening, no number of towels would budge the greasy smearing. Then out came Colly #476 Doublecoat,....perfect.

Had that happen to me on a test wax
 
Ron ....best way to apply reload ...use 2 microfiber towels. ...spray reload on one towel and immediately wipe off with other towel.....don't dilute it....no need to do that
 
Ron ....best way to apply reload ...use 2 microfiber towels. ...spray reload on one towel and immediately wipe off with other towel.....don't dilute it....no need to do that

That's how I did the first one (actually light spry panel, wipe, wipe with 2nd)
 
Coatings are actually making detailing more complicated and adding more headaches. First you have to deal with the difficulties of trying to get every gram of silicone or previous LSP off every surface of the entire car - good luck there.

IME this is harder than it seems - and is probably the reason for most coating failures. Then you have to deal with trying to get high spots leveled and the coating has to be viewed in all types of lights at all types of angles. This is probably reason # 2 for failures - people use minuscule amount of product so they don't have too many high spots. Applying any coating outside is tedious at best.

Then you have to by special soaps and special "maintenance products" that are hard to use and leave smears that can't just be wiped away. None of the "maintenance products" work anywhere near well when used in any type of sun or anywhere warm.

After all this - you keep your fingers crossed hoping to get most of the lifespan the coating manufacturer claims. Then, if you have to polish a panel - you better have some of that coating left to re-coat it - and hope it hasn't dried up or turned to glass.

We all know it hasn't panned out that coatings do squat to prevent marring.

Dunno. I'm for the most part sticking with high quality waxes and sealants that are enjoyable to use, easily renewable / re-applicable, and simple to apply.

No headaches and I can just hit them with some Sonax BSD after a wash to get beading that rivals any coating.

Happy Coating Everyone.
 
Coatings are actually making detailing more complicated and adding more headaches. First you have to deal with the difficulties of trying to get every gram of silicone or previous LSP off every surface of the entire car - good luck there.

IME this is harder than it seems - and is probably the reason for most coating failures. Then you have to deal with trying to get high spots leveled and the coating has to be viewed in all types of lights at all types of angles. This is probably reason # 2 for failures - people use minuscule amount of product so they don't have too many high spots. Applying any coating outside is tedious at best.

Then you have to by special soaps and special "maintenance products" that are hard to use and leave smears that can't just be wiped away. None of the "maintenance products" work anywhere near well when used in any type of sun or anywhere warm.

After all this - you keep your fingers crossed hoping to get most of the lifespan the coating manufacturer claims. Then, if you have to polish a panel - you better have some of that coating left to re-coat it - and hope it hasn't dried up or turned to glass.

We all know it hasn't panned out that coatings do squat to prevent marring.

Dunno. I'm for the most part sticking with high quality waxes and sealants that are enjoyable to use, easily renewable / re-applicable, and simple to apply.

No headaches and I can just hit them with some Sonax BSD after a wash to get beading that rivals any coating.

Happy Coating Everyone.

:wall :wall
 
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