Anyone ever try mixing Poliseal with Collinite Insulator wax? I have two details coming up this weekend and would like to try this combo. What would be a good dilution ratio to use? I plan on applying with an air powered orbital palm sander and also need suggestions on what LC pad to use. One of the cars is a late model dark grey 3 series bmw and the other a late model Volvo c70. Both cars are in relatively good condition paint wise with only minor micromarring.
Recommendations for one step mix with Poliseal?
- Thread starter clnfrk
- Start date
Envious Eric
New member
I wouldnt...just use poliseal on its own....why would you want to polish with a wax?
black pad with poliseal = good!
black pad with poliseal = good!
ATLautosalon
New member
By mixing the polish & wax together you can be compromising the wax and it's protection capability's being that polishes are cleaners and waxes are protection and shine.
I would recommend like toyota guy said and just use poliseal on it's own.
Hope this helps!
I would recommend like toyota guy said and just use poliseal on it's own.
Hope this helps!
Dan
Well-known member
Poliseal, then take 10 minutes to do a quick wax with 845 if you feel the need. That or just use a more durable AIO to begin with.
imported_DJ Mayo
New member
Quick poli-seal with black pad, wipe down with OCW...months of protection, let's now start talking about how easy it is.
salty
Active member
Got_Leather said:
It doesn't get much easier.
Envious Eric
New member
I did that to my car the other day, poliseal and OCW. SUPER SLICK,
EdLancer
New member
I am actually looking for a similar products to Poli-Seal as well, Poli-Seal just does not have enough cutting power for used car detailing, but so far I can't find any that is a one-step with enough cut to eliminate swirls and holograms while providing a durable wax. So I had to make my own concoction as well.
I know most high-end detail don't require such harsh one-step product, but when you get into the real world of dealership detailing, time is money and the pressure is incredible when everyone wants to take delivery at the same time.
I am currently using a mix of 3M Perfect-It III with a liquid wax. It does not dry or dust and have enough grit to get rid of old car defects with one pass using a orange pad on a rotary at 2000rpm.
Anyone know of any ready made product that will do this ?
I know most high-end detail don't require such harsh one-step product, but when you get into the real world of dealership detailing, time is money and the pressure is incredible when everyone wants to take delivery at the same time.
I am currently using a mix of 3M Perfect-It III with a liquid wax. It does not dry or dust and have enough grit to get rid of old car defects with one pass using a orange pad on a rotary at 2000rpm.
Anyone know of any ready made product that will do this ?
imported_sal3291
New member
EdLancer said:
Try Meg D151, has great cut, good cleaning and as durable as poli seal so I personally top it with a sealant
EdLancer
New member
Will try getting a bottle and giving it a try. I basically need to buff two cars within 4 hours, yes, I know I basically just pay attention to the hood and trunk, the rest is just a quick pass with a rotary to give it some gloss. The dealers are now buying used cars at auctions to increase sales volumes as they are only selling two new cars a week now, so we as detailers have alot of work ...LoL
Chris@Optimum
Optimum Product Support
If your doing auction cars you need to fill and stop worrying about fix. Prowax makes a product called auto auction prep that will do exactly what you need. I used it when I was doing volume work.
EdLancer
New member
How does ProWax Auto Auction Prep perform, working time, haze, dust, hard to remove etc ... ?
My current mix has a moderate to high cut, long work time, no dusting and stays waxy till I remove it.
I typically like to buff the whole car before going back to remove the product with a orbital.
My current mix has a moderate to high cut, long work time, no dusting and stays waxy till I remove it.
I typically like to buff the whole car before going back to remove the product with a orbital.
Chris@Optimum
Optimum Product Support
Its about like just applying a cleaner wax by machine, but it fills and hides very well. Not what I'd use in place of a real correction, but on a auction car it's just the ticket and it fits the budget for what they pay to do volume work...a necessary evil.
Accumulator
Well-known member
EdLancer said:
Which PI-III product? The 05933 Rubbing Compound? Gee, I thought I was the only person left still using PI-III stuff!
EdLancer
New member
I am not sure, since my buddy who does the secret mixing and won't tell me ...LoL, I am helping him out during this busy period and he knows I am a competitor detailer when I work by myself for fine paint preps. He jokes that us "fine paint" detailers need to know how to tackle real paint correction "fast"
I know for sure it is a 3M product, probably their 06085 or more likely 05973 since I seen the empty containers in the trash can. The LSP he mixes it with is a mystery to me, but the product smell has a waxy candle like smell when buffed warm. I had to get used to it before I got a hang how it behaves with the rotary as it thickens up and you have to apply some pressure or it will bog down, but the pads stays amazingly clean with no build up don't think I ever even had to clean the orange LC pad all this time which is pretty amazing by itself. We start off at 600-800rpm and then up to 2000rpm during the cutting stage and back to 1000rpm for the polishing. It starts out like a thick paste and stays waxy through the whole time. We don't remove the product until the entire car has been buffed saving alot of time just removing product. Since the two years he has been buffing for this dealer, they are extremely satisfied with his workmanship in turning out pre-owned neglected auction cars that look almost flawless, that said the used car sales people are extremely happy since they are able to sell alot of used cars.
I have sold him Optimum Hyper Compound and Polish in the past which he used with wool and foam, but after a month he didn't like them so much because of build-up on the pads and the lack of cutting power for the type of cars he gets to buff.
I know for sure it is a 3M product, probably their 06085 or more likely 05973 since I seen the empty containers in the trash can. The LSP he mixes it with is a mystery to me, but the product smell has a waxy candle like smell when buffed warm. I had to get used to it before I got a hang how it behaves with the rotary as it thickens up and you have to apply some pressure or it will bog down, but the pads stays amazingly clean with no build up don't think I ever even had to clean the orange LC pad all this time which is pretty amazing by itself. We start off at 600-800rpm and then up to 2000rpm during the cutting stage and back to 1000rpm for the polishing. It starts out like a thick paste and stays waxy through the whole time. We don't remove the product until the entire car has been buffed saving alot of time just removing product. Since the two years he has been buffing for this dealer, they are extremely satisfied with his workmanship in turning out pre-owned neglected auction cars that look almost flawless, that said the used car sales people are extremely happy since they are able to sell alot of used cars.
I have sold him Optimum Hyper Compound and Polish in the past which he used with wool and foam, but after a month he didn't like them so much because of build-up on the pads and the lack of cutting power for the type of cars he gets to buff.
Accumulator
Well-known member
EdLancer- OK, roger that. But I think you mean 05937, the Machine Glaze.
Eh, some people here probably cringe at stuff like this and the Auction Prep, but hey...gotta tailor stuff to the job at hand.
Eh, some people here probably cringe at stuff like this and the Auction Prep, but hey...gotta tailor stuff to the job at hand.