Recommendation Request - Glaze before Sealant and Spray Wax

P

PointyStick

New member
Hello



About every six months I give my car (old photos) a claying and polishing, then follow up with two coats of Menzerna Power Lock Polymer Sealant, then two coats of P21S 100% Carnauba Wax. About every 1-2 months I reapply the P21S.



This time I am going to give Dodo Juice Diamond White Hard Wax a try instead of the P21S, just for kicks.



Looking at add a Glaze before the sealant, any recommendations? From some research it appears that not all Glazes can be used prior to sealants, it appears that Chemical Guys Extreme EZ-Creme Glaze with Acrylic Shine II can be used as it is not oil based. Any thoughts? Any other recommendations?



Also looking for a spray wax to use after washes, between the monthly waxes. Thinking Dodo Juice Red Mist Tropical Protection Detailer. Again any thoughts? Any other recommendations?
 
CG EZCG is my go to for paint prep before sealant



optimum car wax is my spray wax go to



chemical guys V07 is my favorite spray sealant
 
If you want something fully compatible, Optimum Finish as your glaze, Opti-Seal as the sealant and Optimum Car Wax as your spray wax. The Werkstat line can do the same as well, Prime, Acrylic Jett and Carnauba Jett.
 
The CG would work but I like Menzerna PO85RD with a finishing pad. This will remove and clean the finish and give it a awesome finish and look for your Power Lock. This is a neck turner combo.



Scottwax said:
If you want something fully compatible, Optimum Finish as your glaze, Opti-Seal as the sealant and Optimum Car Wax as your spray wax. The Werkstat line can do the same as well, Prime, Acrylic Jett and Carnauba Jett.
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Scottwax said:
..The Werkstat line can do the same as well, Prime, Acrylic Jett and Carnauba Jett.
Click to expand...



Does the Prime do glazey-stuff like filling? I thought of it as, uhm....a better version of something like KAIO.



MDRX8 said:
The CG would work but I like Menzerna PO85RD with a finishing pad. This will remove and clean the finish and give it a awesome finish and look for your Power Lock.
Click to expand...



Same type of :confused: here...I don't think of finishing polishes being real substitutes for glazes, at least not "clean" polishes like the Menzerna.



Not that, heh heh, I really have any better suggestions! Maybe the current version of Danase's Glaze or the Gloss Enhancing Polish from the BF line (seemed like a cross between polish and sealant-friendly glaze to me).
 
If your doing this every 6 months I would use something with a little cleaning power..... Thus my suggestion of PO85RD.... Optimum Cax Wax is a excellant spray wax. Good luck..
 
MDRX8 said:
The CG would work but I like Menzerna PO85RD with a finishing pad. This will remove and clean the finish and give it a awesome finish and look for your Power Lock. This is a neck turner combo.
Click to expand...



MDRX8 said:
If your doing this every 6 months I would use something with a little cleaning power..... Thus my suggestion of PO85RD.... Optimum Cax Wax is a excellant spray wax. Good luck..
Click to expand...



Actually already us Menzerna PO85RD as my last polishing step.



Maybe I have this wrong, but my thought is the Glaze will be "sealed in" by the sealant layer, then by maintaining a wax layer this protects the sealant layer? I really dont have the time with kids etc to three step finish (Glaze,Sealant, Wax) my car every 1-2 months, which is why I use the wax layer to maintain the car and a full blown detail every 6 months (Spring and Fall). Also my understanding is sealant cant follow a wax layer, as the sealant will not bond.



FYI - Typically only drive on weekends, I would guess less then 10,000 km a year.
 
a true glaze will not allow the sealant to bond, so you wont be sealing anything in. Meguiars #7 for example will not let a sealant bond to the paint, but instead it will lay on top of the glaze fillers/oils, so it will wash away rather quickly. You would be better off with a carnuba at that point to take advantage of the oily look it gives to paint (wetness)
 
pointystick- I sympathize with your need to *not* let this stuff consume your life. I'd just skip the whole glaze thing and I'd also just use one LSP, sealant or wax, reapplied as needed (which might not be that often). I hardly *ever* have to redo the LSP on my vehicles, even the daily drivers, because I use reasonably durable stuff.
 
toyotaguy said:
a true glaze will not allow the sealant to bond, so you wont be sealing anything in. Meguiars #7 for example will not let a sealant bond to the paint, but instead it will lay on top of the glaze fillers/oils, so it will wash away rather quickly. You would be better off with a carnuba at that point to take advantage of the oily look it gives to paint (wetness)
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Absolutely CORRECT!

Applying a sealant over a glaze DOES NOT ALLOW IT TO BOND OR COMPLETELY CURE, due to the oils used in a glaze.

Grumpy
 
Ron not questioning your answer, for I have heard the same. But where or who determined this ???



Ron Ketcham said:
Absolutely CORRECT!

Applying a sealant over a glaze DOES NOT ALLOW IT TO BOND OR COMPLETELY CURE, due to the oils used in a glaze.

Grumpy
Click to expand...
 
How about Floyd Mequiar, who with his grandfather, Frank, developed the famous Mequiar's #7?

Also, my three chemists from when I was still working with ValuGard.

Just can't bond to the paint surface, think about when painting a car and if there are silicone oils, etc present-paint won't bond, as shown by the "fish-eyes" in the surface.

Grumpy
 
On this Meguiar's/bonding topic, I've always wondered about the supposed compatibility between their Pure Polishes (like good ol' #7, didn't know that Floyd was involved in that one) and their sealants. I've used NXT over such products, and no the NXT didn't clean the underlying stuff away, or appear to suffer any from its presence, but I've never tried one of their sealants like M20.
 
Floyd grew up on his grandfather's knee.

That's what got him going.

He used to tell me about when he was still with the family firm, after he returned from WWII, where he was a training pilot for the Army on B-17's, about GM and Mequiar's relationship with them

Lacquer's were all the rage and GM used them exclusively.

Back then, new car introductions were done by new car shows in every major city.

Floyd would be sent out with the GM exhibit and each morning apply a coat of #7 to each car and then for the evening crowd, another coat about 5 or so.

He always referred to #7 Sealer Glaze as "King for a Day", as that was about how long it would keep the shine showing, 8 to 10 hours.

It is mostly oils, although they may have upgraded it over the years utilizing more modern silicone/siloxane resins.

Grumpy
 
That makes things a lot clearer. Thanks



Ron Ketcham said:
How about Floyd Mequiar, who with his grandfather, Frank, developed the famous Mequiar's #7?

Also, my three chemists from when I was still working with ValuGard.

Just can't bond to the paint surface, think about when painting a car and if there are silicone oils, etc present-paint won't bond, as shown by the "fish-eyes" in the surface.

Grumpy
Click to expand...
 
If there was such a thing as Autopia back in those days, I bet true, die hard Autopians would've accumulated 55 gallon+ drums of #7 and religiously,fanaticlly applied it daily.
 
Bill D said:
If there was such a thing as Autopia back in those days, I bet true, die hard Autopians would've accumulated 55 gallon+ drums of #7 and religiously,fanaticlly applied it daily.
Click to expand...



Without a doubt, Bill, without a doubt!

Grumpy
 
Ron Ketcham said:
Absolutely CORRECT!

Applying a sealant over a glaze DOES NOT ALLOW IT TO BOND OR COMPLETELY CURE, due to the oils used in a glaze.

Grumpy
Click to expand...



toyotaguy said:
a true glaze will not allow the sealant to bond, so you wont be sealing anything in. Meguiars #7 for example will not let a sealant bond to the paint, but instead it will lay on top of the glaze fillers/oils, so it will wash away rather quickly. You would be better off with a carnuba at that point to take advantage of the oily look it gives to paint (wetness)
Click to expand...



I agree that a sealant over an oil based glaze will not bond. The oils left on the car would block any reaction to the paint.



Both EzCreme and Wet Glaze state that they are made with acrylic polymers and can be followed with a sealant. Also Detailed Image Guide specifically mentions;



"acrylic based glaze that allows sealants to properly bond even over the glaze"



Now I am confused :confused:
 
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