Recharge v Overcoat v VS1

Wasn`t topcoat supposed to do that ?!?!?!?
Even I have my limits on what I`ll take a `flyer` on. Topcoat F11 exceeded those limits...just barely. Curiosity can be a dangerous thing...

The TAC Moonlight experience is still fresh in my mind.
 
Even I have my limits on what I`ll take a `flyer` on. Topcoat F11 exceeded those limits...just barely. Curiosity can be a dangerous thing...

The TAC Moonlight experience is still fresh in my mind.

Im still using Moonlight on my wife’s car. I’d compare it to a good sealant. Of course I’m topping it with QuartzMax which is my favorite topper. I did buy some of TAC Systems Top Coat but I haven’t had time to play with it yet. I imagine it is like Gliss since the CarPro and TAC Systems line is so similar. Check out TAC Systems new products, they have a waterless wash with Si02 now.
 
Even I have my limits on what I`ll take a `flyer` on. Topcoat F11 exceeded those limits...just barely. Curiosity can be a dangerous thing...

The TAC Moonlight experience is still fresh in my mind.

Yeah, that was my fault too. Thanks for taking one for the team on that........ :)
 
So, back to work today after sitting around doing pretty much nothing for the last week. Lotsa things piled up on my desk, many e-mails that I ignored last week but, really, I needed to take care of the *really* important stuff first.

Dunno how many miles were put on last week, hood looked pretty clean and we did have a lot of rain last week so, eh...things still look pretty much the same. Sprayed it down hood with 17oz of water from Kwazar spray bottle. All sections pretty much looked the same but the Overcoat & VS1 sections left a much cleaner/dryer spot when I shot some compressed air at the beads of each section, water didn`t seem as willing to move about on the Recharge section when hit with air.

Recharge:
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Overcoat:
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VS1 Final Coat:
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And the Prime/CanCoat sections/stripes are still better than any of them:
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Finally, rain.

To be honest, none look that impressive. Opened the hood and lifted it vertical, all ran off (or more truthfully, failed to run off much) equally.

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Appears that way. Will have to put a hose on it for a flood rinse to see how they sheet. And drive it a bit. Supposed to rain the next 2 days, well see what happens.

Even the Prime + CanCoat stripes didn`t really stand out.
 
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Sorry for the delay guys been a little busy. I also apologize that these are the only 2 pics I could pull off since its been very stormy in Hawaii lately. My wife`s SUV has a System X Diamond coating applied in September and I have been using Reload for a booster every 2 months. it`s been over 2 months since Reload and I decided to wash and apply 2 coats of Recharge via the dry method. I`m a fan of using a microfiber application pad and following up with a microfiber towel. I pretty much have the same reviews as far as easy on easy off product, no streaking issues (of course the suv is white though). Definitely not milky consistency as reload is and is definitely a watery product. The shine and smoothness of the panels are decent, I feel reload has a leg up. Overall for the application and water beading there`s definitely no wow factor for me and I`m guessing it`s not going to be as durable than reload but that`s just my opinion. So far for $10 it`s worth it but I`m not sure I can spend $35+ dollars. For me durability is key but I`ll just have to wait and see
 

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Sheeting, kinda anyway.

https://youtu.be/fVoR1Tf5jx4

Once I get some time, gonna prep/polish a Ford Ranger Hood, coat it with McKees V2, break it into sections and top with:

HydroSilex Recharge
Kamikaze Overcoat
22ple VS1 Final Coat
IGL Premier
Gtechniq Liquid Crystal C2V3
Gyeon Cure

After Polish/Prep gonna tape the horizontal sections off before applying McKees V2, then continue to tape the vertical sections off after coating.

Hopefully that`ll give an indication of bare paint, coated-only paint (both under the horizontal, vertical tape lines, respectively) and the boosters performance on top of McKees V2.

Don`t suppose using McKees 914 at a stronger dilution than 1:128 as a waterless wash would affect and of the current 3 items, do ya? I kinda eyeball it went making it in a 16oz bottle. Kinda hard to measure out 0.1 oz to get the 1:128 ratio. I suck at math, though. Am I even close on the mixing of the McKees?
 
Maybe the hood just needs a wash? Then test it again?
I can`t believe your kami OC and 22ple VS1 FC did not get past 4 weeks.
 
Maybe the hood just needs a wash? Then test it again?
I can`t believe your kami OC and 22ple VS1 FC did not get past 4 weeks.

Yeah, maybe give the hood a bucket wash tomorrow (if we don`t get the 10 to 13" of snow they`re calling for tonite) and see whats up. Even the Prime + Cancoat lines were virtually indistinguishable. Weird. Truck really hasn`t had that many miles on it and weather here has been somewhat mild.

Who knows, maybe these things just don`t like not being on top of a coating...we`ll see.
 
Ahem... It`s 0.125 ounces.... haha

Honestly, if an extra splash of 914 concentrate is enough to make a difference in durability for toppers, probably not the toppers you want to use. What I mean to say is that I don`t think the mix strength of 914 is having an effect one way or another.

Sheeting, kinda anyway.

https://youtu.be/fVoR1Tf5jx4

Once I get some time, gonna prep/polish a Ford Ranger Hood, coat it with McKees V2, break it into sections and top with:

HydroSilex Recharge
Kamikaze Overcoat
22ple VS1 Final Coat
IGL Premier
Gtechniq Liquid Crystal C2V3
Gyeon Cure

After Polish/Prep gonna tape the horizontal sections off before applying McKees V2, then continue to tape the vertical sections off after coating.

Hopefully that`ll give an indication of bare paint, coated-only paint (both under the horizontal, vertical tape lines, respectively) and the boosters performance on top of McKees V2.

Don`t suppose using McKees 914 at a stronger dilution than 1:128 as a waterless wash would affect and of the current 3 items, do ya? I kinda eyeball it went making it in a 16oz bottle. Kinda hard to measure out 0.1 oz to get the 1:128 ratio. I suck at math, though. Am I even close on the mixing of the McKees?
 
Rinselss w/ McKees 914

Sprayed down with water with Kwazar Pump Sprayer

HydroSilex Recharge:
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Kamikaze Overcoat:
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22ple VS1:
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CanCoat Divider Stripe:
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When I sprayed lightly, as in a light rain, all had nice, tight little beads. As I doused with more water the definition of the beads deteriorated.

Grabbed roughly a pint of water, sheeted it over top of each section. VS1 barely edged out Overcoat in speed of water sheeting off panel, Recharge was a distant third. Poured 2 pints of water from cowl over entire hood, Overcoat and VS1 about equal, Recharge took twice as long (Kami and VS1 had sheeted off, Recharge was only half way down panel). VS1 and Overcoat sheeted cleaner, leaving less residual water on hood.

As I was walking back into offive I wandered past Van 15: Gtechniq CSL + C2v3 applied 02/2017; wash, decon, CanCoat + Kamikaze Overcoat refresh 10/2017. Since then, no wash or maintenance aside from Mother Nature, snapped below pic:
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Somewhere I have a van around here I did 22ple HPC + Finitura + 22ple VS1 in 12/2017 on half the hood; when I see it tomorrow I`ll spray it down without washing and see what happens.
 

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Very informative. My only question is I`m having a hard time with the picture that shows the CanCoat stripe. Is it a nicer bead than Kami O C and 22PLE FC, or is it just similar? Van #15 looks good, which tells me these maintenance products work best -- as intended -- over a coating. Do you agree?
Thanks for doing this!
 
Very informative. My only question is I`m having a hard time with the picture that shows the CanCoat stripe. Is it a nicer bead than Kami O C and 22PLE FC, or is it just similar? Van #15 looks good, which tells me these maintenance products work best -- as intended -- over a coating. Do you agree?
Thanks for doing this!
Well, it`s certainly raising many questions in my mind, warranted or not.

The CanCoat strip does maintain the tighter beads than any of the others, no doubt about that. I`ll have to watch those stripes when I flood some water again to see if they both bead AND sheet better. Dunno if I`ll be able to discern that ( or explain just what the *^%$@ I`m doing now to puzzled coworkers) but I`ll definitely try.

If they (CanCoat stripes) do sheet AND bead better, well, uh...toss all boosters and just top with CanCoat every 6 to 8 weeks? While it is more of a coating as opposed to a booster, cost wise it`s not too far removed, cheaper in some cases (although perhaps not on a cost per use basis). Still...

And maybe we need to put more focus on sheeting as opposed strictly nice beads. I personally prefer sheeting to beading if I had to pick just one. Recharge was significantly lagging in that area and such a large difference indicates `something`, no?

I`d like to also see what happens during a Spring rainstorm, not so much as to see the water behavior during the rain but rather to see what`s left after the sun comes out. Water spotting was one of the things I didn`t like about TAC Moonlight. It had great water behavior but seemed to be prone to dirty water spots when left to dry.

This stuff will make ya crazy...perhaps some ignorance truly is bliss. Maybe it was better when I merely thought "I use this, this and that and I think it`s great!" and didn`t worry about the sticky details of a better possibility.

As for Van 15, maybe the Overcoat is gone and it`s the now exposed CanCoat that was underneath it producing those nice beads. Oops.
 
Great feedback for sure. Got to get me some more CanCoat I think. I`ll use the 22PLE FC after washes as I have plenty, but I`m going to top with CanCoat every 3 months. It`s a stunning product that beads like crazy. And since I don`t get your rain / sludge / snow / salt out here in AZ, it just makes sense. CanCoat 4 times per year, 2 years for $40 (on sale)---too easy. All this clinical evaluation stuff is just sh*ts and giggles anyway. But it does keep me out of the girly bars.
 
I love all you do and test for us BudgetPlan1---Im gonna have to def pick up some Cancoat and maybe alternate and compare with the Overcoat I have to see any diff I can see!
 
If they (CanCoat stripes) do sheet AND bead better, well, uh...toss all boosters and just top with CanCoat every 6 to 8 weeks? While it is more of a coating as opposed to a booster, cost wise it`s not too far removed, cheaper in some cases (although perhaps not on a cost per use basis). Still...

Or that eBay "super hydrofobowa" 9HMR-FIX, lol.
 
Little bit slow this morning, another snow `event` rolled/rolling thru the area. Why not take another gander at this hood? First, waterless with 914...could still see a film on surface. Waterless with ONR, could still see film on surface. Grab bucket, wash mitt, PB Super Soak and Suds...about 1oz in a gallon of hot water, rinse and wash hood, flood rinse and dry. No more film on surface. Get out Kwazar Pump sprayer full of water, simulated rain (which, again, makes me look like a little bit of an idiot standing on ladder spraying even further up in the air so drops fall down upon hood in most natural way I can think of).

Recharge Beading:
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Kamikaze Overcoat Beading:
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22ple VS1 Final Coat Beading:
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CanCoat Divider Line Beading (Dividing line just beneath windshield washer nozzle on cowl):
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Flood rinse hood

Recharge sheeting:
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Kamikaze Overcoat sheeting:
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22ple VS1 Final Coat sheeting:
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Slickness to touch (dry, after wash, beading and sheeting):
1. Kamikaze, 22ple
3. HydroSilex

Sheeting speed:
1. Kamikaze and 22ple
2. Recharge

Sheeting completeness, least water left:
1. Kamikaze Overcoat
2. 22ple VS1
3. HydroSilex Recharge
* Hard to really compare as Kami is on center, entirely flat part of hood, Recharge & VS1 have that contour line that could disrupt (or enhance...I dunno) clean sheeting.

Takeaway from today: Will be washing with PB Super Slick and Suds going forward; I must be inept in the waterless washing cuz it wouldn`t come clean today user proper dilution+ in the mixing.

Was gonna stay home today but then I remembered that many might be interested in this totally un-scientific, half-baked, ever-changing-variables and who knows what we`ll really get out of it testing...so I risked all just to update this thread. Ok, maybe it was more not wanting Mother Nature to determine when I was gonna burn a vacation day but the former sounds much more, uh, dedicated?

Yay Cleveland; always nice when a salt truck barrels by and it sounds like someone is throwing BB`s at your car:
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And my parents met in SanDiego back in early 1960`s and then proceeded to MOVE TO CLEVELAND ON PURPOSE! Oh, what coulda been...
 

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