Reccomend a Leather Cleaner/Treatment for a beginner?

Roger Koh said:
Are you referring to the "STRUCTURE" or the "FINISH" that you have soften with coated leathers?



Hard for me, in my ignorance, to say; I'm afraid I know *NOTHING* about the jargon/nomenclature related to leathergoods, so you'll have to bear with me here and/or school me...



The leather seating surfaces were stiff, that is, the leather itself wasn't pliable. I'm guessing that would be the "structure". After treatment, the leather was much more pliable/flexible/less-stiff.



The Yukon's seats' cracked areas (bought it that way) would be the "finish", right? All I can really say about those areas is that they aren't getting significantly worse. When I first got it, it seemed they were getting worse every week so things seem much better.



Otherwise, the finishes were extremely matte (beyond what it would have been when new) and after treatment were less so, much closer to what the showroom-new appearances were. The feel of the leather surface, which I'm guessing would also be the "finish" seemed less dried-out and again, more like those surfaces felt when new.



I find it hard to differentiate as I figure that finish and structure both contribute to how the leather feels. It was a "gee, these leather seats seem dried out and stiff" vs. "these leather seats seem nice and soft".



They seemed closer to "like new" than they had previously, and they've pretty much stayed that way ever since with no additional treatment beyond wiping clean, though I did retreat the Yukon's seats a few times, maybe annually.



Same story with the Beater-Blazer I used to have and the new owner claims the leather is still OK (that stuff was just *terrible* when I got it, completely dried out with cracking everywhere).



Sorry if I'm coming across as inscrutable, I find the subtleties hard to differentiate, let alone verbalize :o



Oh, and I know I should probably "restore" the cracked areas in the Yukon's leather, but a) I don't know how, b) it can't be out of service for long, and c) I'm not convinced it'll really matter in the long run and it sure doesn't bother me now. I must admit that I've almost certainly been (at least) borderline neglectful/abusive of my leather interiors, but over the years I've only had to have one section of a driver's seat repaired, and that minimal cost was of no significance to me.
 
Accumulator said:
Hard for me, in my ignorance, to say; I'm afraid I know *NOTHING* about the jargon/nomenclature related to leathergoods, so you'll have to bear with me here and/or school me...



The leather seating surfaces were stiff, that is, the leather itself wasn't pliable. I'm guessing that would be the "structure". After treatment, the leather was much more pliable/flexible/less-stiff.



Describe what particular product you used to soften coated leathers and what you have observed during the application?



Did the product penetrate the "FINISH"?



Roger Koh

Leather Doctor®
 
Roger Koh said:
Describe what particular product you used to soften coated leathers..



On this thread I was referring to Sonus Leather Conditioner and LeatherMaster's Leather Protection Cream. (I need to go edit my earlier reply, I only used Sonus with success on the BMW and my Blazer.) But I've also included comments about the different products that I've used on my other two Audis.





...and what you have observed during the application?



Did the product penetrate the "FINISH"?



I had to check my detailing log as much of this has slipped my mind (most of this work was at least a year or more ago) and I might've given all the Blazer-related info to the new owner as I don't seem to have that. My notes were minimal at best anyhow, and I didn't take any real care to note how things went when I did these jobs. So, apologies for the scant info but I'll try to recall as best I can...



Sonus- On the Yukon the product seemed to mainly just sit on the leather, with minimal penetration/absorption. It seemed to leave a sticky residue that I had to really rub to get off. There *was* a minor softening effect, enough that I could tell a diff between areas I'd done/not. This struck me as a classic case of "wrong product for coated leather", but it did make things noticeably better.



On the Blazer, all I can say is that it penetrated better (or at least I don't recall the same lack as with the Yukon) and *definitely* did soften the leather quite a bit; it had been "old onionskin typing paper"-dry if you know what I mean and it was much more supple afterwards, enough that nobody would think it on its last legs.



The M3 hadn't been treated since maybe the '90s and had sat "mothballed" in my garage for years. Its leather was also *very* dried out, so much so that I was a little nervous about applying pressure to it. The Sonus again softened it up and did seem to penetrate; again, very different from with the Yukon.



As best I can recall or find in my records, those are the only times I've used the Sonus. I only used it on the M3 and the Blazer as the deals were sealed with the new owners and I didn't really care how they turned out...pleasant surprise that both turned out well.



LM- On the old Audi (never treated since new...over 15 years!) the LM stuff did seem to soak in/absorb. It simply behaved as I would have expected on non-coated leather and the leather softened right up, section-by-section, as I did it. No, it didn't immediately soak into the leather as it would have on non-coated, but it sure didn't merely sit there either. There was minimal excess to buff off. The resulting finish was quite dry to the touch; it was so satisfactory that I thought "gee, this could be a LM ad!" and considered it a perfect example of a leather product doing what was intended. Given that result, I tried it on the Yukon's leather.



On the Yukon, I was prepared for an unsatisfactory experience as with the Sonus. Much to my surprise the LM soaked in *dramatically* better and again left a quite "dry" finish, though it took a little while longer to feel that way than with the Audi and a bit more excess was buffed away. Zero sticky/tacky effect as I had experienced with the Sonus. Roughly a year later, I redid the sections of the front seats that get the most wear. Again, it worked just the way such products are "supposed" to work. I did the driver's seat and a while later went back out to the shop; it felt so much "better conditioned" that I went ahead and did the passenger seat too. The diff between how it is now and how it was when I bought it three years ago is dramatic by any standard.



Other coated-leather experiences that come to mind (since I'm running this stuff past an expert anyhow..) would be my Audi A8 and S8, but I hardly ever treat their leather. I have *not* treated any of the coated leather in any of my other vehicles as I never considered it necessary.



'01 S8- This was years ago (garage-queen, I hardly ever do anything to the interior), but IIRC I used Pinnacle's Leather Conditioner on it. I can't say that I recall anything about it other than not liking the "luggage store" smell. Most of the product seemed to wipe right back off, with minimal penetration. I haven't treated it since, though I plan to use the LM on it in the future.



'00 A8- Again, this was last treated a few years ago and I can't find any notes about it. I've treated its leather with the Pinnacle with similarly minimal results. I seem to recall getting somewhat better results (penetration, softening) with Griot's Leather Care (old, unscented version). My last conditioning was with some thick stuff labeled "Jaguar", no idea who made it...smells like very strong Ivory Soap to me. So thick that "cream" seems inaccurate. That one also surprised me as I was able to work it in to the leather (much like working shoe polish into dress shoes) and when I buffed off the excess it had definitely made the leather more supple. Any unbuffed excess left a white residue that took a lot of buffing to remove. That last treatment was several years ago, and again, I plan to treat it with LM before too long.



Sorry the above explanations aren't better, but I look forward to your comments; I'm pretty much flying blind here, with nothing to go by other than what I experience first-hand. I wish I had a good leather expert in my vicinity to help with the Yukon's leather and/or advise me on this stuff in general. Any suggestion would be appreciated as I'll need to buy more LM eventually and I'm open to other (unscented) product suggestions. Though I'll be right up-front about how I'm not gonna bend over backwards over this stuff as my leather seems to hold up OK no matter what I do/don't to it.
 
Bert said:
Good point Setec. I forgot, sometimes you can find Duragloss's leather products OTC also and they are very good too.



Anyone else have any experience with the Duragloss?



I will probably have to order something this week, but I have a car in the drive now and I need a treatment chop chop.
 
We have found during testing that 303 does not work on leather as a protector against dirt and oils. LM protector was always of a very high standard and they still produce a good quality protector but there are better on the market. The protector produced by the factory for LTT always keep theirs at a standard at least 50% stronger than any other on the market (this is tested rigorously).



Judyb, why do you think the many many protected leathers users of these "sit on the surface" leather care products believe they work?



I believe that if you put a "protection" product (may contain lanolin, wax, etc) will make the surface feel smoother (maybe not more pliable) in the same way a wax will make paint (as applied to a car) feel smoother.



The reason that people believe that these products work is becasue when they are applied they leave a residue on the surface that gives the leather a nice 'hand' - we have similar products too and the carpet and upholstery cleaners love them as they can give their customers that really nice feel to the leather when they have finished a job. This feel does not last very long and soon wears off but by this time the customer will have forgotten how it first felt and so will not be any the wiser. Examples of water based ones that do not contain any harmful residues are Leather Vital, Leather Cosmetic, Leather Active.

Many products do contain lanolin which will give it the nice feel. Other oils/waxes etc that cannot be absorbed by the leather finishes remain on the surface of the leather. The problem is that if the products contain oils and waxes that are left on the surface and do not 'dry' out thoroughly then the residues will attract more dirt onto the leather - this is what we are trying to avoid as the dirt and abrassion will only help to wear out the finish on the leather more quickly. These products are best used in conjunction with a good quality leather protector as then you have the full benefit of both products.



Leather finishing has changed a lot over the past decades and although at some stages leather did require 'conditioning' with oils etc (as in saddlery leather) modern coated leather does not now require this as the 'fatliquors' and processtes hat are used during retanning are very stable and do not migrate from the leather (except under certain very rare conditions). Because people do not understand the changes that have been made in the industry suppliers still 'sell' the idea of 'feeding' and 'conditioning' leather (this sells products!!!) although most suppliers are now coming round to the idea of protecting the leather finish. Problem here is that suppliers are simply changing the name of their 'conditioner' to a 'protector' even though it does not do any actual protecting of the leather. You can do all the 'conditioining' you need on modern finished leathers with water and water based products. If you speak to the tanning industry when they speak of 'conditioning' leather they are always talking about the moisture content and not any prescence of waxes or oils or fatliquors. It is this moisture level that is crucial to the well being of the leather (similar to wood).



Protectors can be easily tested to see if they work and there are standard industry tests that can be done by anyone.



Generally speaking protectors are more expensive as the active ingredients that do the protecting (fluorocarbons) are expensive so a cheap bottle of product that says it protects is unlikely to do anything at all (which would show easily in the tests). A lot of products say they have added protector to their regular products but in these cases the amount involved would be so small that they would be very ineffective - this is why testing is important.



Hope this helps
 
Here is what is in Leather Masters Protection Cream...from the MSDS sheet



Ingredients

Chemical Name CAS Number Proportion Hazard



Watery solution of resins, animal and vegetable oils and fats. Contains < 0.5% mould inhibitor.



Ingredients are non-hazardous.
 
Actually thats just what is in the MSDS not necessarily everything in the product. MSDS sheets are not required to list every ingredient or the formula of the product.
 
jfelbab said:
Actually thats just what is in the MSDS not necessarily everything in the product. MSDS sheets are not required to list every ingredient or the formula of the product.



If you had been following the discussion/debate on leather care, what it says is very interesting.
 
How so? I've been following this thread and don't find the MSDS at all interesting or informative. This simply tells me that there is nothing harmful in the product.
 
Which Duragloss product is recommended? I was at CarQuest and they had 3 or 4 different Duragloss leather products. I didn't know which one to get.
 
Yakky- If you were referring to LM on coated leather...if you were to check out the untreated seat I unbolted from the Yukon and put in storage, and then compare that to the treated seats still in the vehicle, you'd absolutely conclude that whatever's in the LM stuff, it sure does work, even on coated leather. No, I don't know how/why, but the diff is simply obvious. So much so that I'd be a [fool] to quit using the stuff. If you try it and it doesn't work for you, just let me know and I'll take it off your hands (how's *that* for confidence?!?).



Quality Leather- I'm not all that close to Cleveland, and I doubt I'll put any $ into the Yukon's seats...but THANK YOU! for that reference. It's hard to know who to trust, and your recommendation carries a lot of weight for me. I do want to have as many good contacts as possible for this stuff, and I wouldn't be surprised if some of the people I deal with in Cleveland (my Audi dealer, my Jag guy) are having that shop do the leather restoration that they farm out.
 
Accumulator said:
Yakky- If you were referring to LM on coated leather...if you were to check out the untreated seat I unbolted from the Yukon and put in storage, and then compare that to the treated seats still in the vehicle, you'd absolutely conclude that whatever's in the LM stuff, it sure does work, even on coated leather. No, I don't know how/why, but the diff is simply obvious. So much so that I'd be a [fool] to quit using the stuff. If you try it and it doesn't work for you, just let me know and I'll take it off your hands (how's *that* for confidence?!?).



Quality Leather- I'm not all that close to Cleveland, and I doubt I'll put any $ into the Yukon's seats...but THANK YOU! for that reference. It's hard to know who to trust, and your recommendation carries a lot of weight for me. I do want to have as many good contacts as possible for this stuff, and I wouldn't be surprised if some of the people I deal with in Cleveland (my Audi dealer, my Jag guy) are having that shop do the leather restoration that they farm out.



Do you use all three of LM's leather set, the cleaner, conditioner and protectant?
 
Bert said:
Do you use all three of LM's leather set, the cleaner, conditioner and protectant?



Had to run out to the shop to be certain; apologies if I've played fast-and-loose with the product descriptions here :o



I just have the "soft" cleaner and protectant, it's the sorta-sample-size set from TOL.
 
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