Rail Dust Problem

Bitfryer said:
A brand new 2008 black Japanese import convertible roadster with hardtop.
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why not just say Miata?



from the other board:

"Speaking with the dealer's expert detailer, I was surprised to learn that to keep the paint looking good, one has to wax every month to keep the spider webbing (fine scratches) at bay"





no wonder they messed it up, keep them away from it:bat

:secretstick around here to learn how to ake care of it





WOW there is a ton of bad info in that post on the other board:nervous2:



someone please help this poor guy

before anyone else messes with his car





F.Y.I. the pic look a lot more like overspray
 
speedyone said:
Sounds bad.



i know my mazdaspeed3 had a bad rail dust problem but nothing claybar couldn't remove.



SO what kind of car is it exactly, S2000?
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Just saying didnt I post clay bar and was ripped apart.
 
MASKDMARVL said:
Just saying didnt I post clay bar and was ripped apart.
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no this is what you had to say





MASKDMARVL said:
2500 grit sandpaper, Clay, or a rotary will fix ALOT of bad paint. Consult before painting !



Post pics, we remain in the dark without them.
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David Fermani said:
2500 grit sandpaper or a rotary to remove Rail Dust? There's much less evasive ways to do this. .....
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so someone telling you there are less evasive ways is ripping you apart:o
 
BigJimZ28 said:
why not just say Miata?



from the other board:

"Speaking with the dealer's expert detailer, I was surprised to learn that to keep the paint looking good, one has to wax every month to keep the spider webbing (fine scratches) at bay"





no wonder they messed it up, keep them away from it:bat

:secretstick around here to learn how to ake care of it





WOW there is a ton of bad info in that post on the other board:nervous2:



someone please help this poor guy

before anyone else messes with his car





F.Y.I. the pic look a lot more like overspray
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BigJim,



GTPaul on the Canadian forum has offered to take a look at his ride. He has received enough help, it is now up to him. :)
 
Hey guys,



I just saw the car tonight. Great owner, and we spent a good hour chit chatting. First off;

the car has been to the dealer often with them sub contracting the work out to Joe-Blow (one of them said that there is nothing you can do about swirls and scratches LOL). Apparently claying has been tried along with a bunch of buffing. There is swirls and holograms obviously.



We tried turpentine on the window to see if it removed it but it didn't. I'm going to draw up an estimate for the owner to present to the dealer to have me do the work. I plan to do a test panel for the dealership to see.



In looking at the vehicle, the specs are very tiny (white in colour) and in my experience with other cars should be removable. I'm going to try an aggressive clay, hopefully this get's the majority of it off. Then follow up with the normal compounding/polishing routine.



Anyone have experience with overspray that didn't come off with claying? I haven't and am thinking that if it doesn't come off after the clay/compound process, 3000 grit will have to be tested.



Paul
 
You can try lacquer thinner, but I wouldn't bet on it working. It'd be easier than aggressively claying the entire car, though. Mineral spirits may work too. Good luck!
 
we tried the mineral spirits on the window but it didn't make a dent. Mind you, until I do the test panel we won't know how it works on the paint.



We'll see how the dealership handles it, and hopefully are willing to subcontract it out because the last thing we need is for it to come out of the owners pocket.
 
Have you tried an aggressive clay? I have dealt with various oversprays that normal clay wouldn't touch. Aggressive marring clay worked along with a compound and polish after.
 
Just for those who have not seen rail dust on clay, this is what it looks like. I got this off the hood of my new Silverado last weekend :cooleek:



Image-417B129EB38211DD.jpg
 
salty said:
Have you tried an aggressive clay? I have dealt with various oversprays that normal clay wouldn't touch. Aggressive marring clay worked along with a compound and polish after.
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I will be trying that as soon as we get the estimate approved. We don't want to go ahead and try things, and have the dealer turn around and not cover the costs involved.
 
Won't a paint decontamination kit work on the rail dust? They were original designed for that severe contamination.
 
SilvaBimma said:
Won't a paint decontamination kit work on the rail dust? They were original designed for that severe contamination.
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I think it's been determined that the problem is paint overspray, rather than the rail dust it was thought to be originally.
 
gtpaul said:
We tried turpentine on the window to see if it removed it but it didn't. I'm going to draw up an estimate for the owner to present to the dealer to have me do the work. I plan to do a test panel for the dealership to see.



In looking at the vehicle, the specs are very tiny (white in colour) and in my experience with other cars should be removable. I'm going to try an aggressive clay, hopefully this get's the majority of it off. Then follow up with the normal compounding/polishing routine.



Anyone have experience with overspray that didn't come off with claying? I haven't and am thinking that if it doesn't come off after the clay/compound process, 3000 grit will have to be tested.
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If it's white, it's not rail dust and I don't know why the dealer/Mazda should pay it for unless it was there at the time of delivery and was noted? If clay isn't removing it (along with the sublet detailing shop's buffing) you need to go the route of a 4000 grit sandpaper. This will remove the overspray and won't require heavy buffing or compounding. Go to: Micro-Surface Product Directory

It's sold by the roll. Call them up and ask for a few samples of 4000 and 3600 and they'll send you enough to do this job and probably a few more.



Keep in mind that you'll be able to remove this from the glass, paint and hard plastic parts. If there's overspray on the seals and moldings the only route would be to replace them.
 
Well if they keep sub contracting out to Joe Blow Hack Your Car Up, no reason why they couldn't sub contract to Park Avenue Detailing.
 
gtpaul said:
Well if they keep sub contracting out to Joe Blow Hack Your Car Up, no reason why they couldn't sub contract to Park Avenue Detailing.
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Well...



1) The dealers like to be in complete control of the process. An outside detailer, with whom they are not familiar, will often make them suspicious. They see detailers as purely a commodity.



2) Your price will undoubtedly be about 2x what they are willing to pay and what another detailer will offer to do it for.
 
I understand your points, but if they truly want to solve this they need to give it to a detailer then can ATLEAST not hologram and swirl the paint. You should see it, one of the shops told the owner that there is nothing you can do about swirls.



We will see how it pans out, the owner is extremely disappointed and if it comes down to it will come out of his pocket to have it fixed.





You should see the paint...
 
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