Questions regarding Klasse SG

T

tricycle

New member
Okay, first I searched most of the forum regarding how to apply the SG.



The only way that I would prefer is using the PC with finishing pad.



I applied one nikel size of SG on the dry finishing pad and set the speed to either 3.5 or 4 on the hood first, for instance. However, the SG seems drying so fast on the hood and leaves the "haze" / "smear" which is hard to wipe off by the MF towel. I wipe off the dried SG with the Meguiar's Quick Detailer to solve out this matter.



Could someone tell me what did I do wrong or am I using the wrong method? I assume the SC is easy to apply and wipe off as per most of the forums discussed.
 
My truck is black, and to this day, have not been able to get a coat of SG on it that pleased me.



I truly think that SG is simply very difficult to use, and for this reason, I don't use it on my truck anymore.



There is a wipe on / wipe off method described in the archive of this site, as well as mentioned in some of the threads, but my bottle of SG, purchased about 2 months ago, dries so fast, i can barely use the wo/wo method effectively.



Because of the many posts on the durability of SG, i still try every now and then to apply it using all of the methods mentioned, but to no success.



IMHO, there are a ton of sealants / waxes out there that are so much easier to use for me, that I choose to use them instead.



I hope that you have better luck than i have had getting SG on properly.
 
Tricycle- Much as I like doing things by machine (even paste waxes), I do better applying KSG by hand. Easier for me to get it on super-thin, which avoids the problems you're encountering.



I use less than you're using. I apply tiny "dots" of SG to a small yellow applicator and rub it together so as to distribute the SG. Only enough to lessen the "drag" you get with a dry pad. Go by the feel when you apply, you should be able to tell where you've applied it vs. where you haven't. Just work methodically so you don't skip any spots.



When removing, I fog the surface with my breath. The little bit of condensation makes removal (with suede-style MF) quick and easy.



But if the SG is a real pain I'd just switch to UPP or Collinite. I only use SG on one of our vehicles and it's not like there aren't alternatives.
 
Regarding using the yellow pad (hand-applied) method, do you mist the pad before you put the SG on the pad? As we know, the SC is like water, if we mist the pad, would the SC be diluted? I used the yellow pad (Meguiar's) before, but my hands felt so sore, that's why I am using the PC.



However, I do agree the Klasse combo really make the difference. I can see the reflection and contour of the paint and sealant under the sunlight on my black car.
 
I've applied SG in two ways:



1) A wetted applicator (MF wrapped foam)

2) Sprayed a 1:6 dilution of SG onto the paint, and buffed off with 100% cotton or MF cloth



Both methods give good results, but I can't say how method 2 compares in durability compared to method 1.



When I use method 1, if I have problems wiping off the SG, I'll quickly go over the area again with the moist applicator (without adding any SG - only using what is left on the applicator). This will resolubilize the SG on the paint, and will allow you to wipe of the haze without problems.



Some folks here have complained that SG is finicky and hard to work with. It may be true if you approach it the same way that you would a normal carnuba wax. But, if you work with it for a while, it becomes much easier to get great results - and the protection lasts for quite a while.



Don't give up on it yet.
 
I've been using SG for the last 2 weeks, and I now have around 4 layers of SG on my car. It's not that difficult to apply, and yes, it dries fast, so I wouldn't recommend using a machine to apply it.



I use a clean, dry applicator pad, apply a dime-sized amount and rub the applicator pad to spread the SG around, then start work on the panels. On the first application, it seems to leave a layer that hazes very quickly (that's when you know you've applied too much SG), so buff it off quickly.



I've learnt to apply SG using short strokes (approx 2 feet long lengthwise, or 1 foot long breadth-wise), and I work it sections at a time. For example, I divide the roof into quarters, then work it one quarter at a time. For each quarter, i work on the first half, then move on to the 2nd half, then go back to buff off the first half, followed by the 2nd, then move on to the next quarter.



Subsequent layers of SG is easier once you have a consistent technique and not to over apply SG. You'll also find that after the first panel, you won't need that much SG on the subsequent panels. You can tell when you need a bit more SG by feeling the applicator pad -- if it's still slightly damp and it leaves a rapidly vanishing trail of SG when you wipe it on, it's still good. Once the trail gets inconsistent, just apply a wee bit more SG to the applicator and get back down to it.



You'll find that subsequent layers of SG seem to 'absorb' really quickly into the previous layer. That should a good sign that you are not applying too much SG on the applicator, and that the previous layer is still good.



The only downside for me is that SG tends to look somewhat artificial, so I top off my 4th layer with a layer of carnauba wax to soften the look.



I'm no expert on this, just sharing what has worked for me :)
 
We do 18-20 cars per wek, in a production environment. 90% get the Klasse Twins.



Believe me, if it was hard to apply, we'd find something else.



The durability just can't be beat.



Jim
 
I've been using SG for over 2 years and have literally never had a 'problem' with it. I have even used QD's to whipe up the residue and it still came out fine (which is what you did, you should be fine).





First, I would try slowing down the PC, there is really no reason for it to spin fast when applying a LSP. Maybe even try by hand and get used to the product first.



Your big problem sounds like product thickness. Use VERY LITTLE SG. I think someone had a signature for a while that said something like "When you think you used too little SG, you have used too much".



This gets much harder to do as your pad builds up, so just keep an eye on how much buildup you are getting.





Whipe on whipe off is definitely the easiest method, and has worked perfect for me everytime (you are doing this, but just threw it in there for completion).







I'm curious, what were the condiitons when you were applying it?
 
I have used it on a lot of colors, but I don't recall using it on black. Although I don't see how that makes a difference in the difficulty of application.





Is it possible SG has undergone a formula change, you both seem to have new bottles. I have had my bottle for a long time.





My personal vehicle is a meduim shade metallic silver.
 
The problem when I applied the SC with the PC was:



1st time, I put only 2 drops of SC on the "Fresh and Dried" finishing pad, and turned the PC to speed 2. Then I placed the pad on the hood and polished the paint, it seemed there were nothing such as haze or the SC stayed on the hood (I assume the pad absorbed most of the SC into the pad), so I put 2 more drops on the pad again, and did the same process. Now, there seemed something sticked / stayed on the hood which was the SG. When I tried polishing the hood in a 2' by 2' area using back and forth motions, the SC dried so fast. So, I used the MF to remove the SC and it was hard to take off.



Anyway, I should try using the hand application method with the yellow foam pad and see whether it works!!!
 
Tricycle: it seems that the 'sticky' stuff that you encountered (hard to take off) is the 'in between' phase of the KSG.



Using wipe on/wipe off (WOWO), you are removing it while it is still liquid. After it initially hazes, it gets sticky, tacky, difficult to remove. I believe that this point is when people have problems with it. It is definitely a bear to remove at this point, and I have run into the KSG leaving streaks when I try to remove it after it got tacky.



As I stated earlier, if I mistakenly let it dry to this point (example: the phone rings, and I answer it), then I simply rewipe the panel with the moistened applicator, the sticky SG becomes liquid again, and then I wipe it off.



There is also a third stage of SG (after liquid, and 'glue'). If you allow the SG to dry for several hours (example: overnight), the SG hazes completely, the sticky, glue-like characteristics are gone, and you can simply wipe (no effort necessary) the residue off.



I use a combination of WOWO and 'Leave it overnight', depending on the car that I am doing, and the time available. (If I finish the polishing/prep work around dinner time, I'll apply the SG and leave it overnight in the garage; otherwise I use WOWO)



As you can see from my sig, the Benz is black . . . and I'm getting results with KSG better than I did with waxes, thus I have used the KSG exclusively for about 2 years now.
 
I don't know for sure, but my bottle is new, and have a feeling that the new formulation dries faster.

As for the relevance of color, I feel that some streaking can't be seen on the lighter colors (other than black)...



One thing is for sure on my paint... Sg is really hard to use. i think that it would take me 6 months to put it on to get 6 month protection . lol





that being siad, i know a lot of people swear by klasse sg, and i am still trying different techniques.
 
dmatre said:
Tricycle: it seems that the 'sticky' stuff that you encountered (hard to take off) is the 'in between' phase of the KSG.



Using wipe on/wipe off (WOWO), you are removing it while it is still liquid. After it initially hazes, it gets sticky, tacky, difficult to remove. I believe that this point is when people have problems with it. It is definitely a bear to remove at this point, and I have run into the KSG leaving streaks when I try to remove it after it got tacky.



As I stated earlier, if I mistakenly let it dry to this point (example: the phone rings, and I answer it), then I simply rewipe the panel with the moistened applicator, the sticky SG becomes liquid again, and then I wipe it off.



There is also a third stage of SG (after liquid, and 'glue'). If you allow the SG to dry for several hours (example: overnight), the SG hazes completely, the sticky, glue-like characteristics are gone, and you can simply wipe (no effort necessary) the residue off.



I use a combination of WOWO and 'Leave it overnight', depending on the car that I am doing, and the time available. (If I finish the polishing/prep work around dinner time, I'll apply the SG and leave it overnight in the garage; otherwise I use WOWO)



As you can see from my sig, the Benz is black . . . and I'm getting results with KSG better than I did with waxes, thus I have used the KSG exclusively for about 2 years now.
Click to expand...



Okay, do you mean I should let those "streaks" stayed on the paint and let them dry (at least 24 hours) so that they easy to wipe off? Is the the common practice of the KSG?



Also, when you say moistened the application, do you use water or quick detailer?



Thanks.
 
although ive tried it, and am in the camp that SG is really hard to use, the (assuming) most popular wowo method is a guy named Bill North's. You can find it in the archive section of this site. He uses water, although for a while recommended a quick detailer for "priming" the applicator.



I've tried using both the wo/wo method and letting the SG stand for a long period of time (roughly 8 hrs), and cannot get either to produce streak free results.



I did a search on SG and AIO reformulation, and found a ton of speculation as to a difference in the product over the last couple of years.



My bottle is very new (w/ in last 3 months)... How old is yours?
 
rfinkle2 said:
I don't know for sure, but my bottle is new, and have a feeling that the new formulation dries faster.

As for the relevance of color, I feel that some streaking can't be seen on the lighter colors (other than black)...



One thing is for sure on my paint... Sg is really hard to use. i think that it would take me 6 months to put it on to get 6 month protection . lol





that being siad, i know a lot of people swear by klasse sg, and i am still trying different techniques.
Click to expand...

If that turns out to be the case (new formulation that dries quicker), then I would simply let it dry all the way and then remove it (per the bottle instructions not the bill north or WOWO).





My bottle is 2 years old or so and wowo works fine.
 
So, I would assume the new SG formula would REQUIRE moisten the pad (either water or quick detailer) with the SG before polishing!
 
tricycle said:
Regarding using the yellow pad (hand-applied) method, do you mist the pad before you put the SG on the pad? As we know, the SC is like water, if we mist the pad, would the SC be diluted? I used the yellow pad (Meguiar's) before, but my hands felt so sore, that's why I am using the PC..
Click to expand...



I'm late respoding here, you might've already moved past this...



I do not mist the pad. The only thing on it is a *VERY* small quantity of KSG. Just enough to lessen the drag of the foam against the paint. I apply it so thinly I generally cannot see it on the paint. Note that this might almost constitute a w-o-w-o, that just occured to me the other day when I applied some. I then let it set up overnight if I can, at least a few hours if that's all the time I have. Any trouble removing it comes from too-thick of an application and the fogging with my breath takes care of that.



But again, I wouldn't kill yourself over this stuff. Use it for your wheels and try something like UPP for your paint.



Hand discomfort? Just try the super-thin application on a minivan sometime ;) Not fun at all.
 
I've used SG by hand since last year and I've had no problems with getting the SG off. I moisten the applicator with water before I put on the SG.



When I take it off, it comes off quite easily.
 
I just started using aio and sg a month ago. I definitely put way too much on, and I experimented with various ways of removing it. I did a damp MF, a little QD, a splash of hot breath, you name it, I tried it.



The best thing I found for getting it off (it dried IMMEDIATELY) was a MF with a slight sprinkle of water on it.



The car looks amazing, it's my daily driver and never sees a garage, so I am sold on klasse.



mb
 
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