Questions For White Car Owners…. (long)

[imported_Intermezzo]

P.S. Intermezzo let me apologize for taking your thread into a different direction than what I think you intended. Good luck in finding the solution to your white car dilemma

Oh no problem at all! Your views are sometimes a bit contrarian to what most ppl here on Autopia view as gospel, but that's what makes your posts interesting.

I dont recommend using a rotory on a new car at all. Although on my own cars I like to wetsand the orange peel so I do use it myself.

You can use a glaze with a high speed rotory at 1000 rpms and not remove any paint al all, but instead smooth out the paint you have..

So now I'm confused. Should I or shouldn't I use a rotary on my sister's new car? You tell me not to, but then you say using a rotary with a product like IHG will do a great job of removing contaminants without shaving off any clear. Will it remove contaminants to the point of being completely invisible?



Also, earlier you were saying I should try something like Pro's P-40 or DACP. Now you're saying I should use a low abrasive glaze? Did you mean to say hand application when you were referring to DACP and P-40?

 

[stuart hicks]

I think what you are now using the clay for falls into the appropriate catagory. The clay is the way to go for contaiminants that can not only be felt but also seen like overspray or soot from an exhaust.



The high speed with a glaze idea is for a general car with a light roughness to it with no specific visible contaiminants. I don't think the high speed would work in your case to your satisfaction without using P-40 or DACP. Both would require follow up applications of glazes then waxes or toppers.



It is a trade off either way but again in your specific case I think the clay is the path of the lesser evil. What I was refering to before is people taking a nearly smooth or uncontaminated car and using clay on it when I didn't think they needed to.



If you have any though you can use p-40 by hand and it works well. Keep in mind it leaves a little bit of cloudiness behind that is removed easily with a topper wax.



Keep in mind too that you think you will be able to live with a few rusty particles here and there, but trust me you won't be happy until every particle is gone.

 

[forrest@mothers]

IM - (this may have been covered in one of the responses to your thread - if so, sorry).



If the surface is smooth after claying, yet the "rust" remains, it's most likely from the blooming of the metal particles. You've removed the protusions, but the stain remains behind.



I would think a light polish would remove the stain.

 

[imported_Intermezzo]

Keep in mind too that you think you will be able to live with a few rusty particles here and there, but trust me you won't be happy until every particle is gone.

Oh trust me, I can't live with it at all! It's not even my car and the thought of tiny little rusty contaminants "squatting" on the nice white paint job is really annoying!



Forrest, I'll try that next time I clay.



I'm going to try various claybars as well as Autoint's ABC and see how well each work. It'll probably be at least 6-8 months till I clay the car again so I've got some time to put my materials together. I think the contaminants on the car I did were "Stage II" contaminants (according to Erazer.com) which claying successfully removed, but took more pressure than I normally use.



Thanks again to everyone who posted!



Tony