Questions after my first full car detail attempt

schiddy

New member
Being a complete newb to detailing I've been searching for cars to practice on. My dad's tan corolla and my black motorcycle were helpful but not enough. I wanted to practice on an older black car before even thinking about touching the "new to me" 2007 black civic si.



As luck would have it, my good friend offered up his sisters 2002 black mazda 626 for me to practice on. He's a diehard car guy and wanted to learn the process too. She moved to Manhattan and was no longer using the car so I was able to get a crack at it at his house.



After a good wash - clay - wash, we used this on the paint:

Griot's Garage DA

M105 on a 4" Hydrotech cyan

M205 on a 4" Hydrotech tangerine



Before:

DSCF0341.jpg




Before:

DSCF0342.jpg




50/50:

DSCF0343.jpg




50/50:

DSCF0344.jpg




After:

DSCF0347.jpg




After:

DSCF0345.jpg




Sorry for the lack of quantity and quality of pics. I had a hard time getting my point and shoot to cooperate with the halogen gun and the black paint. It kept autoadjusting making the light come out over exposed.



The car was in pretty rough shape and for areas with lots of swirling and defects we used 2 passes of m105 and 2 passes of 205. Some areas looked like a mirror with just 1 pass of each. I now can see the small amount of swirling left over in the after pics, those areas got hit with 2-3 passes of 105 and 2 passes of 205. As for the haziness, pretty sure it's from the camera. In person we were pretty blown away by the clear reflections.



With the friend getting impatient, underestimating the energy and time required for a full car using only 4" pads, we wound up resorting to 1 pass of 105/205 halfway through our session. We didn't even hit some last areas of the car unfortunately. I didn't have any sealant except for SRP, I guess that would be considered a sealant right, but the friend veto'd that out of exhaustion. We hit the whole car with a coat of some Ardex wax he had from a detailing store.



Some things that came to mind during this experience:



What should I use to clean off M105? Is IPA wipe down good enough?

I tried Meg's 34 final inspection but it was very hazy and swirly after wiping off. ONR at spray detailing dilution was much better but still a little hazy. IPA wipe seemed to be much better and we used this as a precursor to 205 for the rest of the car.



Would another polishing step like Menzerna PO85RD be beneficial if I'm going for that extra mile in shine?

I was very happy with the results of the combo I used but I have a gut feeling that another step with a finer polish can produce even better results. Would Menzerna polishes break down properly with my GG DA? Would it take forever?



Would these steps in order work properly?

Polish with 105/205 -> IPA wipedown -> Chemical guys or poorboys glaze -> Blackfire Wet Diamond Sealant -> Wax of my choice

Would a wait for curing be required in between any of those steps?


Does glaze go before sealant or sealant before wax. I've only seen conflicting threads when searching. Am I just wasting time with a glaze when doing that much polishing? I know I have deep scratches on my civic that will not come out with polishing.



How do I tell if car is SS or Base/clear without actually taking a pad to it?

Said friend has a very nice condition black 65 chevelle. Paint however isn't the greatest. Looks like it was repainted in the 90's or early 00's, no major scratches, cracks, flaking, or anything remotely close to that. Looks nice from afar but from what I can remember is not very glossy at all and looks like an older paint job. We pondered the idea of me taking a shot at it when I've had a lot more practice. Is it stupid to attempt a car like this with only a DA?



On a final note, thanks to all Autopians, especially Accumulator for all the advice. I can't believe what I've accomplished so far with just a couple months of research, some experienced advice taken, and jumping right in guns blazing!
 
I use Meg's M34 as instead of IPA when removing M105, though I would assume IPA would work too. I was told that since the M105 isn't a diminishing polish, the abrasives are still there and could marr or haze the paint when wiping away of not careful, and the M34 is supposed to sort of lubricate the wipe away.



I use a heavily concentrated Dawn wash after all my polishing is done instead of the other IPA wipedown. (EX: 1/4 cup of Dawn ultra Concentrate per 4 gallons of water)



I have seen people say that the last step of jeweling the paint isnt necessary, but my SS was finished with Ultra Fina and I think it looks sick with a couple coats of Z-5.



I guess it would look *close* to the same without the finish step, but if it's your vehicle and you want to put the extra effort in, I say go for it.



I wouldn't make a habit of it on other people's cars though.:chuckle:
 
schiddy said:
The car was in pretty rough shape and for areas with lots of swirling and defects we used 2 passes of m105 and 2 passes of 205. Some areas looked like a mirror with just 1 pass of each. I now can see the small amount of swirling left over in the after pics, those areas got hit with 2-3 passes of 105 and 2 passes of 205...



That's not all that many passes, but I do understand your time constraints factored in.

As for the haziness, pretty sure it's from the camera. In person we were pretty blown away by the clear reflections.



The haziness might be M205 oils. GENERALLY (sorry to say) if you see it under some conditions (e.g., in the pics), then it *is* there. The SRP oughta help with both M105 micromarring (hides it) and M205 artifacts (not sure what it does but I'm pretty sure it just conceals that too).

Some things that came to mind during this experience:



What should I use to clean off M105? Is IPA wipe down good enough?

I tried Meg's 34 final inspection but it was very hazy and swirly after wiping off. ONR at spray detailing dilution was much better but still a little hazy. IPA wipe seemed to be much better and we used this as a precursor to 205 for the rest of the car.



You might've had too much M105 residue from using too much product. Merely a learning-curve thing. Use what works for you.



Would another polishing step like Menzerna PO85RD be beneficial if I'm going for that extra mile in shine?



MAYBE...but hey, you ran out of time as it was...something to keep in mind ;)

Would Menzerna polishes break down properly with my GG DA? Would it take forever?



Yes, and "not really". I did see a slight improvement on hard paint when I followed M205 with a Menzerna polish.

Would these steps in order work properly?

Polish with 105/205 -> IPA wipedown -> Chemical guys or poorboys glaze -> Blackfire Wet Diamond Sealant -> Wax of my choice

Would a wait for curing be required in between any of those steps?



Probably would work, but I wouldn't top the BFWD. No idea if the glaze will work before the BFWD though. Shouldn't really need it IMO.



Does glaze go before sealant or sealant before wax. I've only seen conflicting threads when searching. Am I just wasting time with a glaze when doing that much polishing? I know I have deep scratches on my civic that will not come out with polishing.



If M105 doesn't fix it, I wouldn't expect the glaze to hide it.



How do I tell if car is SS or Base/clear without actually taking a pad to it?



Easiest way is to use some kind of abrasive, even if it's just by hand.



Said friend has a very nice condition black 65 chevelle. Paint however isn't the greatest. Looks like it was repainted in the 90's or early 00's, no major scratches, cracks, flaking, or anything remotely close to that. Looks nice from afar but from what I can remember is not very glossy at all and looks like an older paint job. We pondered the idea of me taking a shot at it when I've had a lot more practice. Is it stupid to attempt a car like this with only a DA?



No, but older single stage (even a repaint) often calls for a different product choice than B/C.



I can't believe what I've accomplished so far with just a couple months of research, some experienced advice taken, and jumping right in guns blazing![/B]



Glad things are going well. See, the "just jumping in" can work out OK as long as you do your research and keep thinking during the job :D
 
Accumulator said:
That's not all that many passes, but I do understand your time constraints factored in.

Oh ok, I was worried that was a little extreme. When we say a "1 pass" we mean completely working 1 application of polish fully right?



Accumulator said:
The haziness might be M205 oils. GENERALLY (sorry to say) if you see it under some conditions (e.g., in the pics), then it *is* there.

You always use so many words with *emphasis* lol. You're probably right about the haziness is really there in the paint. The 50/50 pics are after initial wiping away of polish and before a really good wipedown with IPA. The after pics are after final waxing if I remember correctly. There was a haziness in some areas the next day from the wax being applied too thick, but I don't believe it was widespread. It went away with a quick detail spray and buff off.



Accumulator said:
You might've had too much M105 residue from using too much product. Merely a learning-curve thing. Use what works for you.

Possibly, even after multiple spray and wipes it was hazy and streaky, almost like condensation on a streaky window. COuldn't get a good inspection with the halogen spotlight because of the haze. After a few wipes with IPA, clear. If I work M105 to the point of dry and maybe even a little powder outside my work area, have I worked it too long? Have a hard time telling when to stop with both 105 and 205. :(



Accumulator said:
If M105 doesn't fix it, I wouldn't expect the glaze to hide it.

Aha, that puts it in perspective. Thanks!
 
schiddy said:
Oh ok, I was worried that was a little extreme. When we say a "1 pass" we mean completely working 1 application of polish fully right?



Yeah, at least in this context.





You always use so many words with *emphasis* lol.



Heh heh, yeah...trying to reflect the nuances that'd be obvious in my speach. It's become sorta automatic :o





Possibly, even after multiple spray and wipes it was hazy, but after one spray with IPA, clear. If I work M105 to the point of dry and maybe even a little powder outside my work area, have I worked it too long? Have a hard time telling when to stop with both 105 and 205.



*I* would say you're working them a bit too long, others might say that's OK. I'd use the #34 to get most of the residue off (with minimal marring) and then switch to the IPA to really clean things.
 
I figure I'd be applying it section by section, so I don't think I'd have a problem with fast flash--I guess I was concerned after someone said it tends to hurt the paint or something :) thnx accum :)
 
One more question I forgot to ask.



Assuming:

Griot's Garage 6" DA

M105 on 4" Cyan hydrotech

M205 on 4" Tangerine hydrotech



What should my speed be around? 6?
 
Alexshimshimhae said:
might be a stupid question--you're not using a 6inch backing plate for 4inch pads are you?



No, I'm running a 3.75 inch backing plate. Just trying to figure out what ballpark speed wise I should be in. On 6, loosely following KBM techniques with pressure, the paint got a little warm.
 
schiddy said:
One more question I forgot to ask.



Assuming:

Griot's Garage 6" DA

M105 on 4" Cyan hydrotech

M205 on 4" Tangerine hydrotech



What should my speed be around? 6?



I use lower speeds with 4" pads, and note that I'm generally a "use the highest speed possible!"-type of guy. 4.5-5 should do it.



Also, last time I used this approach (spot-repair on the A8 via PC), I went from M105/4" orange (similar to cyan) at speed 5 to M105/3" Griot's orange (similar to LC tangerine) at speed 3 and it turned out *VERY* nice. I did a follow-up like what you'll use the M205 for (used 1Z High Gloss/Griot's 3" orange at speed 4.5), but I'm not 100% sure it was necessary, and had I used a true finishing pad (instead of that little Griot's one) I bet it woulda turned out ready-to-wax! Just some food for thought...



[EDIT: Re using 3" pads on a 3.75 backing plate- don't try this at home, kids ;) ]
 
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