Question on new paint
- Thread starter dogma
- Start date
ShaneB
New member
Good rule of thumb is one month minimum in terms of adding protection, however its best to ask the painter (who SHOULD have knowledge about the paint used) what is recommended. Not all paints are the same and some cure faster than others.
Washing it you don`t have anything to worry about unless you`re using a wash/wax type product.
Washing it you don`t have anything to worry about unless you`re using a wash/wax type product.
Ron Ketcham
Active member
OEM factory factory or bodyshop refinish paint?
Big difference as they are not same chemistry or application process.
Big difference as they are not same chemistry or application process.
Stokdgs
dansautodetailing.com
Car was painted a few days ago -- What guidance did the Shop give you regarding your question ?
Can you smell the paint when you put your face close to it ? Do you smell the paint?
All the products on the panel/s, etc., painted, are drying from the bottom,up; the first layer, and then up to the last layer..
In my experiences painting vehicles, there are a few layers of new product on there, = many coats of primer, perhaps a sealer, and then many coats of paint, and perhaps, many coats of clear over the paint..
The best Shop (like the ones I worked at) use the best Factory Pack paint, and generally apply more paint than the Factory does.
Yes, it has to be dry enough so that the Painter or his apprentice, were able to compound the area/s to get them all smooth, so that is also factored in, to answer your question.. They should have told you when you picked up the vehicle, and you went out there, with them, to look at it before you paid for it..
So, what you smell or not smell has a lot to do with what you can do and not do, ok ? Let us know..
Dan F
I just had a vehicle painted. I asked how long I should wait prior to applying a "wax / sealant"
My painter said that I dont need to wait- I can do it right away. He said that years ago the rule of thumb was to wait about 30 days- but with the advancement of todays chemicals -- esp. clear coats- no need to wait. He shot mine with a base clear set up-- 3 coats of high solids clear.
My painter said that I dont need to wait- I can do it right away. He said that years ago the rule of thumb was to wait about 30 days- but with the advancement of todays chemicals -- esp. clear coats- no need to wait. He shot mine with a base clear set up-- 3 coats of high solids clear.
TheMeanGreen
New member
Optimum Polymer Technologies Optimum Car Wax, Meguair`s Mirror Glaze M305, for protection after a week and a half. Optimum Polymer Technologies No Rinse Wash & Shine to clean the paint within that first week, no hard scrubbing, only clean the paint if heavy deposits occur, i.e. bird poop, tree sap, bugs, etc.
wannafbody
wannafbody
Zaino can be used on fresh paint
Accumulator
Well-known member
I only use OCW on fresh "post-production paintwork". It`s been tested/OKed by Ford and that`s good enough for me. Before that, I used a glaze. Outgassing/etc. can take a *LONG* time, even with baked paint.
I sure wouldn`t go by the painter`s advice either; get the info from the paint manufacturer if you won`t take my word for "wait to really do something Autopian, just use OCW for now".
As for other "touching", remember that the painter might`ve already *wetsanded*/compounded/polished/etc. it. It might take a while (up to "you wouldn`t believe how long") to fully harden, but other than that, eh...I don`t baby it, other than only using the OCW for a LSP.
I sure wouldn`t go by the painter`s advice either; get the info from the paint manufacturer if you won`t take my word for "wait to really do something Autopian, just use OCW for now".
As for other "touching", remember that the painter might`ve already *wetsanded*/compounded/polished/etc. it. It might take a while (up to "you wouldn`t believe how long") to fully harden, but other than that, eh...I don`t baby it, other than only using the OCW for a LSP.
Dan
Well-known member
Another vote for OCW. I`ve used it for years just by itself. No need for other stuff really.
I asked the bodyshop how long I should wait and they said 3-4 before I can add protection. I need to find out what paint they used and if it was OEM.
I am in CT so I will probably use a No rinse. I have both ONR and OCW. Also have other No rinse products. What about Beadmaker?
thanks
I am in CT so I will probably use a No rinse. I have both ONR and OCW. Also have other No rinse products. What about Beadmaker?
thanks
Dan
Well-known member
Imo beadmaker is an overhyped product that is marginal at best. If your were close, I`d gladly give you my bottle. I like the smell, that`s the only good thing I can say about it.
Accumulator
Well-known member
Remember that it won`t be "the *same* OEM" since it won`t be the special paint made to be baked at really high temps (the kind of temps you can`t use on an assembled car).
But yeah..that said, I always insist on Spies Hecker paint for the Audis, just because it always works out so well (including curing up nice and hard...eventually, and man can that take forever!). I even prefer it for blending/fading spot-repairs, the kind of work that "never turns out right" and that many shops no longer do; works fine IME as long as you treat the car right subsequently.
Glasurit *usually* turns out OK though a tad softer, and that`s a pretty common choice in my area, lots of shops reach for it every time.
re-tired- I`m glad you found a good painter! Wish we still had some in my area, guys keep retiring...and dying.
Well i ordered M305 and the package came in today with the top off ,so it was all over the place when it was delivered . So I looked to see what I have .
I have OCW, Zaino, Prima Amigo, Sonos acrylic glaze, WOWO`s show stopper, PB white diamond. I know the OCW is ok for new paint, but what about the other products? And i also found some Danase wet glaze about 1/2 a bottle
I have OCW, Zaino, Prima Amigo, Sonos acrylic glaze, WOWO`s show stopper, PB white diamond. I know the OCW is ok for new paint, but what about the other products? And i also found some Danase wet glaze about 1/2 a bottle
PoisonTheWell
Member
Definitely ask the painter. I have to have my front bumper resprayed. They said to wait at least a month if I`m going to wrap it, but if I`m doing a coating that can be done immediately since it doesn`t bond to the paint. I guess it depends what they`re using and whether it gets baked, etc.
You must have bought that wet glaze when you joined this forum.
Dogma:
Do you know if your paint was "baked" in paint curing chamber or with heat lamps?? Yes, it makes a "difference" in how the paint and clear coat cure and what products you use "immediately" afterward and how fast your paint will cure (harden) completely.
I must concur with others in this thread to ask the painter/body shop what type and manufacturer of the paint and clear coat was used and what their recommendations are for care and products that can (or better "should") be used on your fresh paint.
Maybe some someone should start a thread about aftermarket paint types and manufacturer`s.
Matching the paint color, the "texture" or finish of the vehicles OEM paint, its thickness (important on door jams where seals rub against. You do NOT want it too thin!), and its hardness has to be daunting to a painter/body shop.
I often wonder on paint manufacturer compatibility and if there are any "problems" from mixing OEM paints with aftermarket body paints . Painters and body shops usually have their preference as to which paint/clear coat manufacturer they prefer with a number of factors/characteristics to consider, like:
1) Cost
2) Availability (domestic USA production or foreign ,which might be problematic with "Trade Wars or Embargoes")
3a) Compatibility with shop paint equipment
3b) Paint flow and coverage on panels (IE, easy to work with)
4) Color matching technology and mixing equipment
6) Curability (time ,method, and/or hardness)
7) Ease of wet sanding and buffing for final surface finish or texture
8) Manufacturer`s warranty
9) Government environmental conformity (IE, not available in California)
Do you know if your paint was "baked" in paint curing chamber or with heat lamps?? Yes, it makes a "difference" in how the paint and clear coat cure and what products you use "immediately" afterward and how fast your paint will cure (harden) completely.
I must concur with others in this thread to ask the painter/body shop what type and manufacturer of the paint and clear coat was used and what their recommendations are for care and products that can (or better "should") be used on your fresh paint.
Maybe some someone should start a thread about aftermarket paint types and manufacturer`s.
Matching the paint color, the "texture" or finish of the vehicles OEM paint, its thickness (important on door jams where seals rub against. You do NOT want it too thin!), and its hardness has to be daunting to a painter/body shop.
I often wonder on paint manufacturer compatibility and if there are any "problems" from mixing OEM paints with aftermarket body paints . Painters and body shops usually have their preference as to which paint/clear coat manufacturer they prefer with a number of factors/characteristics to consider, like:
1) Cost
2) Availability (domestic USA production or foreign ,which might be problematic with "Trade Wars or Embargoes")
3a) Compatibility with shop paint equipment
3b) Paint flow and coverage on panels (IE, easy to work with)
4) Color matching technology and mixing equipment
6) Curability (time ,method, and/or hardness)
7) Ease of wet sanding and buffing for final surface finish or texture
8) Manufacturer`s warranty
9) Government environmental conformity (IE, not available in California)
Accumulator
Well-known member
Did you ever personally experience any big diff from the baking? I haven`t...but then I err on the side of caution anyhow and might not`ve noticed. I`ve had baked (and yeah, it was *HOT* in there!) paint take as long as 6 months to fully harden up! I actually checked that they didn`t mix it wrong...