Question on Meguiar's Routine--a bit CONFUSED

G

Glossequation

New member
Ok, I searched and found alot of technical information on the products I used (including Mike Phillips' informative posts), but still find myself a bit confused. So let me just give some essentials, and if some people could chime in with advice, that would be great:



1996 Black Cobra, mint condition, garaged during the week, driven on sunny days only, about 7,000 miles per year. Paint is in excellent shape, just about swirl-free and virtually no scratches. I am very happy with her.



Each spring, she gets a dawn wash, clay, #7, #16 treatment. Thereafter, its washed every other week (QD'd w/FI in between), with a fresh coat of #16 put on every 6 weeks from April to October.



My question is: do you guys think the #7 has lasted as a polish since being locked in by #16 during the spring "full detail", and is simply re-waxing every six weeks enough to provide sufficient protection and shine? I am also wondering if maybe once during the summer it would be good to re-apply #7 (basically layer it?)and top it with #16 during one of the 6 week "re-waxes".



thanks alot!!



Erik
 
Way back when, I used to put #7 on my black Z-28 almost every week, during the summer. No wax on top, just #7. I tried topping it with wax, but the wax seemed to knock the shine down a bit. This was some years ago,so maybe todays waxes won't knock down the shine. You could go for the "Gusto" and do the #7, every time you wax, and see how it works. You gotta love rubbin that baby...
 
Keep in mind that #7 does not provide ANY protection, it is just a glaze to hide swirls and give you a great shine. The second you wash the car or probably even if it rains on the car it is going to be gone unless you top it with a wax. I would say though if you are happy with the way the car looks and it is still hiding the swirls and you are happy with the shine than just keep topping it. If you are starting to see the swirls again or if the shine is not up to par than apply another layer of #7 and then top it with #16.
 
rjstaaf, thanks....I always immediately top #7 with #16. I also don't want to "overbuild" layers of product on my car...I think I'll do the #7 in the spring, once in the summer, and once before---



storage in November...:mad:



rjstaaf--don't I see you over at stangnet alot?? I am gunsfan over there.
 
I don't think you are going to run into an "overbuild" of products but, since #7 doesn't really offer any protection I think you will be fine applying it by the schedule you mention.



Yup, I spend as much time over at Stangnet and the Corral as I do here :) Mozilla has a nice little feature that lets you specify a group of web pages as your home "set" so whenever I open it they all open at once :)
 
AHA! Another person who uses #16. Thought I was the only one. Based on MY #16 experience, I'd say that yes, MOST of the #7 gets locked in by the wax and won't need redone UNLESS you wait too long to replenish the #16 (which doesn't sound too likely). Hard to say for sure though...interesting question.



If you try to redo the #7 when you DON'T need to, it might wreak havoc with the remnants of the #16, as in a smeary mess. Nothing TOO bad, but worse than the easy redo of #16 you're used to. If you're still happy with the look at the end of the season, I'd see no reason to change what you're currently doing. *I* wouldn't bother with a layer of #7 before putting it up in November if you're just gonna redo (Dawn, etc.) the car before spring anyhow. I WOULD, however, maybe clay it then (November), so the contaminants don't sit on it over the winter. BTW, #16 holds up well to spot-claying.



I find that (at least for me) other QD's work better with #16 than FI, especially ones with wax in them. Griot's Speed Shine seems to compliment it well (maybe I just THINK so because they're both blue :p). I WOULD suggest you try something other than FI for this (I still use FI for other stuff), I'm pretty sure you'll be glad you did (I sure was). Besides the SS, I like EF's Clear Pearl and ClearKote's Quik Shine.



FWIW, since I've tried Collinite, I've been using THAT, most of the time, on the car that used to get #16. Not trying to sell you on a change...the #16 *IS* an easy to use wax with its own special characteristics. Just put it (#16) on a car this week and remembered how much I like it.
 
rjstaaf...I will have to try that Mozilla, sounds cool.



and thanks Accumulator! Yes, #16 is a rare wax around here indeed, but I love it. I find it easy to work with as well, it smells like crayons, and the blue tin is wide enough so that my Viking foam applicator does not need to be squeezed in there.



It sounds as if I'm doing fine with the one coat of #7 in the springtime, then periodic waxes throughout the season. I am happy with the shine, and the #16 does a great job for me. I will try another QD, oddly enough I just came up from the garage and was perplexed because I had a tough time taking off FI for some reason--it streaked??



Anyway, I use this routine on both my vehicles, but the Yota pickup (the daily driver), is much higher maintenence. Here are a couple pics of my rides, compliments of #16...
 

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blackcaraddict- Those look nice! Yeah, I think that #16 is under-rated, but then I keep using Collinite instead so who am *I* to talk :o



Can't resist: "maybe try Collinite on the truck".



I too had streaking, etc. with FI upon occasion. It USUALLY means you need to rewax (MAYBE even redo the #7, hard to say). This is one of the reasons why I switched QD (now I only use FI for stuff like polish residue removal). I THINK the alcohol in the FI tends to degrade certain waxes/sealants (some more than others) and at some point, without a tiny amount of wax in it (like what's in some other QD's) the net effect can be negative, as in your case. At any rate, I'd refresh the #16 a bit more frequently (as you know, it only takes a few minutes).



Oh, and that Crayon-smell we both like is probably due to a high paraffin content, which some will get all :nono about. Whatever, #16 IS a very good wax and I note that YOU sure aren't complaining about it melting/evaporating off your black vehicles.
 
I've become a Meguiars addict recently myself.



Here is the order I used on my Mustang.



1. Wash with dawn soap

2. Clay bar with Meguiars clay bar

3. #9 (not necessary if you don't have swirl problems like I did)

4. #7

5. #26



The big difference came when I used the 26, unbeliveable how shiny that makes your car!
 
rek said:
Way back when, I used to put #7 on my black Z-28 almost every week, during the summer. No wax on top, just #7. I tried topping it with wax, but the wax seemed to knock the shine down a bit. This was some years ago,so maybe todays waxes won't knock down the shine. You could go for the "Gusto" and do the #7, every time you wax, and see how it works. You gotta love rubbin that baby...
Click to expand...



#7 was formulated to work on single stage paints. You can use it on clear coats, but wipe off will be a little harder.



It's pretty hard to beat #7 for how dark it will make paint.



Gold Class and #26 can usually darken black paint just a smidgen more than #7 by it'self, but they don't make paint look as wet as a coating of #7.



#16 is good for gloss, but doens't make paint look darker than what you start with. That's probably why you like it when you apply it "over" the #7



p.s.



rek, I sent your package out today and it includes,



#20

#26

Ultimate Wipes

Foam Applicator pads

andn some #81 Hand Polish for you to try out and see how you like it.
 
Accumulator said:
blackcaraddict- Those look nice! Yeah, I think that #16 is under-rated, but then I keep using Collinite instead so who am *I* to talk :o
Click to expand...



I sent some #16 to a fellow Autopian to play with and compare to P21S and then post his impressions here and at SCG.



His review should be interesting.



I like #16 and have used it for years.



It's not a bad wax, it compares very well to the P21S, (my opinion), wipe off can be very difficult if you apply to thick of a coat and let it dry/cure for too long.



It does add a lot of gloss. I have heard some people use it for a Mold Release wax and actually have a catalog here in my office from another company where they sell it as such.



The cans are cool too, once they’re empty, I use them for knick-knacks, nuts & bolts, clean wax pads... whatever... I just like the

blue color and the sturdy can.



All Meguiar's paste waxes will be going through formula changes in the before 1/1/ 2005 to meet new California VOC Standards.



I have requested some very specific improvements to this product, we'll just have to wait and see if they make it into the new formula.



If anyone wants to try it, it's fairly inexpensive and can often be found at PBE stores and if not in stock at a PBE store, they can have it in a day or two.
 
Mike Phillips - Very interesting to get YOUR take on the #16. I look forward to the next review of it. FWIW, I've never had trouble taking it off, even when I experimented with some rather heavy (handed) applications. One man's soup, etc. etc., I guess.



I've always liked the blue can too. My friends and I have joked that it's a "professional" wax because only pros know where the screwdriver fits (easily) to open the can :D



Please keep us apprised of any changes to good ole #16.
 
Accumulator said:
Mike Phillips - Very interesting to get YOUR take on the #16. I look forward to the next review of it. FWIW, I've never had trouble taking it off, even when I experimented with some rather heavy (handed) applications. One man's soup, etc. etc., I guess.
Click to expand...



Try this...



Apply a normal coat, not super thin, not ridiculously thick.



Allow wax to sit overnight.



Come back out the next morning to wipe it off. (only do a panel, do not do the entire car until you have tried a panel and experienced cured, rock hard M-16)



Then compare to most waxes you have used, even after letting them sit for extended periods of time.



p.s.



Your not supposed to let this wax, (M-1611 Professional Paste Wax), or any wax made by Meguiar’s sit on the car for more than it takes for the wax to haze…



I just happen to let #16 sit on a car overnight because I was about 12 hours into a complete buff out and by the time I applied the coat of M-16 to the entire car, it was late at night… and my arms were very tired. I just figured I would go home, come back and wipe the wax off. What I found was a wax that had cured so hard that if you were not careful, as in extremely careful, you would instill scratches into the finish trying to remove it. If you were able to remove it without scratching it… it left a very high gloss finish.



It was accidental.



Also, in this test, try both a microfiber polishing cloth and your biggest, softest loop terry cloth towel.



Come down on the #16 with the terry cloth towel to “Break� the wax, and then use the creep method to remove.



Mike
 
I fully agree with the thoughts on #16 on this thread. I also believe its an underrated, "sleeper" wax. Its not available at a lot of places, but the tin can is cool, its wide enough for sponges to comfortably fit in, and I find its easy to work with as long as you follow the instructions given here which is to apply it thin and wipe off rather quickly. I usually let it sit only for about 5 minutes, which is just enough time for it to haze and pass the "swipe test" (assuming ideal weather conditions).



Yeah, accumulator, I think its old school having to use the screwdriver in the slightly wider channel to open it...ha ha.



It would probably make a cool cigar ash tray too!! Just have to cut some grooves for the stogies to rest on! :up





Mike, sort of off topic, but...what's the difference between Meg's Gold Class, Consumer Cleaner Wax, and Mirror Glaze #6 as far as functionality? By my thoughts, I'd say they all perform the same function...I know GC is better (provide a darker gloss) than the consumer stuff, so I guess my question is the difference between GC and #6?
 
Mike Phillips said:
Try this...



...What I found was a wax that had cured so hard that if you were not careful, as in extremely careful, you would instill scratches into the finish trying to remove it. If you were able to remove it without scratching it....
Click to expand...



Heh heh, I'll take your word for it! I've learned to NEVER let #16 (or Collinite either, for that matter) set up too long.



BTW, any comment on how *I* find #16 does NOT stain trim (with my quick wipe-off method of application)?



blackcaraddict- I like your ashtray idea. Just make sure to clean it out really well lest your Cohibas taste like Crayolas :p



Ever try applying #16 by PC? I use a PC/Cyclo from time to time with great results. Seems like a sorta different effect compared to hand application, like you're "working it in" more. A little harder to remove if you overdo it, though (similar to what Mike's talking about, I expect).
 
Very interesting all this talk about #16... Question for those that use it, does it bead a lot? It sounds like a nice MPPP replacement that might have some more depth. The thing I don't like about MPPP is that it really doesn't bead much. I like beading as it gives you a better clue about the state of protection. And it looks cool...
 
Aurora40 - Yeah, #16 beads quite nicely (nothing like Collinite though :D). It IS one of those waxes where you can go by beading when determining when to rewax.
 
Aurora40 said:
Very interesting all this talk about #16... Question for those that use it, does it bead a lot? It sounds like a nice MPPP replacement that might have some more depth. The thing I don't like about MPPP is that it really doesn't bead much. I like beading as it gives you a better clue about the state of protection. And it looks cool...
Click to expand...



I also find that it beads nicely and have also found it to be quite durable.
 
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