Question about non-clearcoat paints.

01WJLimited

01WJLimited

OTC Home Detailer
My friend told me her dad just picked up a 1974 Corvette Convertible, and wants me to detail it when he gets it back (Needed some engine work.)

Soon, I am getting the Edge 2000 pads, SSR2.5, SSR1, and EX or Meg's #26 Yellow Wax.

Is it safe to use any of these with a PC on Non-Cleared paint? I don't know if it is not cleared, but seeing as it's 32 years old, it wouldn't be. Maybe it's been resprayed, but I can't be sure.
 
I'm pretty sure it will work the same. From what I've heard, your pads might change color. The products should work the same though. It's all paint after all. If it hasn't been taken care of though, be ready for some nice oxidation.
 
If the paint is indeed 32 years old, you'll want to watch for thin spots, cracking, etc. Maybe use some extra caution.
 
If its not been repainted then its most likely single stage paint (non-clear coated) the way to tell is take your SSR 2.5 or the SSR1 and by hand rub an area, if the color of the paint comes off on the applicator its single stage.

As for the products you have they will work with your Edge pads...as Jared said you have to watch for thin spots such as the edges on the car, you could burn threw the paint...I'd clay the car to start then use the SSR1 with a polishing pad to see how that comes out....the pad is going to turn the color of the car, not to worry with single stage paint you want to take a FINE layer of paint off....You might need to do the top of the car with the SSR 2.5 then SSR1 if there is more oxidation on those areas....from there you can seal, wax or both for a great shine....Single stage paint is not that hard to work on....I cut my teeth on it with a rotary back in the day:D
 
Maxima Lover said:
I'm pretty sure it will work the same. From what I've heard, your pads might change color. The products should work the same though. It's all paint after all. If it hasn't been taken care of though, be ready for some nice oxidation.
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I don't mean to be critical of your reply, but this is not an answer to any part of what he asked
 
I've used PB's on Vettes and the British series from the 70's. No problems.
Haven't used that wax by Meg's.
 
Beemerboy said:
I don't mean to be critical of your reply, but this is not an answer to any part of what he asked
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How is it not? I told him they should work the same.
Maxima Lover said:
The products should work the same though.
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You accually repeated some of what I said.
Maxima Lover said:
From what I've heard, your pads might change color.
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BeemerBoy said:
the pad is going to turn the color of the car
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Maxima Lover said:
If it hasn't been taken care of though, be ready for some nice oxidation.
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BeemberBoy said:
more oxidation on those areas
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I don't mean to be critical either, but you told him things he didn't ask for either. I didn't see him ask what process to use in this thread.
BeemerBoy said:
I'd clay the car to start then use the SSR1 with a polishing pad to see how that comes out....the pad is going to turn the color of the car, not to worry with single stage paint you want to take a FINE layer of paint off....You might need to do the top of the car with the SSR 2.5 then SSR1 if there is more oxidation on those areas....from there you can seal, wax or both for a great shine....Single stage paint is not that hard to work on....I cut my teeth on it with a rotary back in the day
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Beemerboy said:
I don't mean to be critical of your reply, but this is not an answer to any part of what he asked
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Beemerboy, I've always enjoyed and appreciated your detailed responses to the queries on the forum. What was this one about :nutkick and why did you feel it was necessary to post?
 
If you are dealing with the factory paint on this 'vette, do be careful and look closley for paint checking. Checked paint has very fine cracks that many times do not apear until wax/polish/glaze has been applied -- thus filling these cracks with product which is dang near imposible to remove :)
 
Maxima Lover said:
How is it not? I told him they should work the same.



You accually repeated some of what I said.







I don't mean to be critical either, but you told him things he didn't ask for either. I didn't see him ask what process to use in this thread.
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You said that they SHOULD work the same, do you have any experience with the products or the pads he is talking about? I do and allot!

Your answer was extremely vague "pretty sure" "from what I've heard"" pads might change color" To me what I read was from someone that had no hands on experience with this....If this guy had taken these products to this car with his new pads and messed something up...how would you have felt about that? if he had gone with just your answer.

I did take it a step farther and explained a process and technic...from what I read into it, he didn't understand either one of these on what looked like single stage paint.


I am truely sorry if I came across harsh to you, it wasn't my intention...I jsut didn't want this guy to be mislead or have a bunch of ???? with an open ended answer
 
01WJLimited said:
No one has any input on this?
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It may or may not have a clear. If it was done at some cheap place, it may still be a single stage paint. In my experience, if that is the case, it'll probably need quite of bit of correcting.

It would be best to find out where he got it done and if it does or doesn't have a clearcoat.
 
Locally, when people repaint, they can do acryllic enamel (single stage), but often do Urethane Enamel or b/c.
Protection and reconditioning on Urethane Enamel and b/c is basically the same, though you find they respond a little differently to the polishing.
 
It's just a little scary to me. I think I'll do an inconspicuous spot with the PC, and if I don't trust it, I'll do it by hand.
 
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