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[Accumulator]

Accumulator, thanks for chiming in. I was actually hoping for some words from you, as I'd read other threads you'd posted in concerning Audis...

Yeah, while plenty of people here have a *LOT* more overall experience than I do, I've been detailing Audis since forever and I *do* know those cars



I'll try to answer a few of your concerns so you have some immediate feedback to work from, but I'll also echo the advice to find as much info from Kevin Brown as possible.



Please pardon any typos as I'm gonna spit out this long-winded reply pretty fast.



I think you've started to see where you went wrong and get an idea about what needs tweaked :xyxthumbs

What other pads would you recommend, it sounds like I need something other than just orange to get the most out of the 105 work?

I'd get a *scad* of LC Cyan Hydrotech cutting pads. Use those for the aggressive work.



Then follow with M105 again on LC Tangerine Hydrotech polishing pads. Only one go with that combo, but still get plenty of them.



Then M205 on the Tangerine. You won't need quite as many Tangerine pads for use with M205.



Then *maybe*, if you really want to gild the lilly, M205 on the new red finishing pad or on some other "zero cut" finishing pad.



Yeah, I know, easy for me to spend your money on a bunch of pads But if you can swing the cost I think it'd be worthwhile.

I should be doing most of the work with 105, it sounds like, as I should be able to get it a lot less marred than it is now using only 105, before switching to 205 for final work?

Yes. Use the M205/Tangerine to get out micromarring from the M105 and nothing more. Let the M105 do all the heavy lifting.

How do you "clean" a pad? You mean fully washing it (I use Dawn Power Dissolver in a bucket of water)? Or something else? About halfway through the 2 days of work, I starting periodically running the pad into a MF towel for a few seconds but it didn't seem to make a lot of difference in the results I was getting.

If it's not too bad, you can spritz it with M34 (or water, but M34 is a *LOT* better IMO) and wipe thoroughly with a towel. But that only works for light soiling and soon you need to blow it out with compressed air (if you have a compressor) or clean it (yeah, fully washing it). A pad washing gizmo would be nice but I just use Dawn PD. BUT....the trick is that the pad needs to be *DRY* to work properly with the M105. Absent a compressor to blow it out (and even that is a big PIA), the solution is to just have a zillion pads. Yeah, I know...



No way to overstate the importance of keeping the pads clean. Pretty hard to overstate what a hassle it is too!

How often should I clean the pad? After every time I apply product to it and apply that to a panel? Or after several "passes" at that panel?

Inspect for dried product, that's a HUGE no-no. Absent that, I'd do a small section, add a *little* more product, do the same size section, then probably clean the pad with the wiping/M34. After maybe a panel is done I'm pretty sure it'll be time for a complete cleaning/new pad. But I do err on the side of caution.

When should I just change to a "new" (fully cleaned and dried) pad?

With M105 I'd say no later than after finishing work on one panel, but it depends how much work that panel required.

When you say "prime" the pad, you mean spread the product across the surface of the pad?

The post by Kevin shows a great pic explaining it pefectly. You want to evenly distribute product thoughout the pad. Every pore should have some. But no pores should be "clogged"/over-filled with product.



Err on the side of too much. Then let the pad sit for a minute or so and then press a MF against it to get any excess. Then check it out and blot more (or, conversely, rub the pad to better distribute product to areas that need it).

I was using the Meguiar's Quick Detailer, not 34, should I get 34 specifically?

Get the #34. It's a "cleaner" QD that does what you need without leaving a lot of stuff that you don't want.

For lighting, I am not that well set up. I have a stand with the 2 big halogens, and a pocket sized (but super bright) Surefire LED flashlight. I didn't have any problem seeing the marring and stuff with the Surefire, but I can't see that well when I'm actually working with the PC.

That's normal. With experience, you'll get a little better at seeing things (spot 'em with the SureFire, then try to see the same flaws under the halogens, thereby training yourself, but that only goes so far...). Once you can see a glimmer of the flaw under the halogens, try to *keep on* seeing it while polishing..."see it through the polish". But again, that only happens to a certain extent. I'm constantly turning lights on/off and otherwise messing around doing inspections; I probably spend more time inspecting than I do polishing!

One big thing: I am not quite sure how long I should work the product, I think that you may be on to something when you say the marring I'm seeing could be from dry product. How many times should I be moving the PC over the same spot in the area I am working before stopping and wiping off the product? Should I be going fast or slow back and forth?

I move the PC somewhat slowly, but not *really* slow (sorry, I never try counting seconds or anything like that). Maybe six times total across the small area of operation. M105 does its thing *fast* compared to other such products.

I will definitely be taking it slower next time and focusing on getting a single panel done in a session, and working much smaller areas (although ~2'x2' was as big as I was working before).

Sounds good. I work areas about 1' x 1'. Smaller than what some people work by far, but it's what works best for me with M105. With M205 I work considerably bigger areas, but don't over do it just because I said that

One thing is for sure, I have definitely had it made abundantly clear that I know a heck of a lot less about this than I thought I did going in. Consider the black Audi the school of hard detailing knocks I guess.

Well, starting with a black Audi really is like jumping into the ocean to learn how to swim!

 

[AndyA6]

Hi! I almost feel not answering since there is so much knowledge out here!!



I have an '03 A4 in light silver. I searched for a long time to find the right combo working on light scratches and correct swirls.



Here' what I use/do:-



-PC on 5 with Meguiar burgundy 7009 pad

-M105

-prime pad and use M105 as per KBM, use a bit of pressure, finish with lighter pressure after 2-3 passes

-I stop working the M105 just before it starts to dust

-clean pad almost after every pass, you will notice how the M105/pad starts to work differently when pad is not clean, friction increases a lot

-In case there is a deeper scratch I use mutiple passes

-wipe after each pass with a nice clean/soft terry towel



M105 is a very nice product and leaves an almost LSP ready finish.



After the the M105 application the 2nd go around is with M205, same PC, same pad, same proceedure as per above.



M205 does not cut much, it's more like finishing the M105.



For LSP I use P21S Carnauba wax applied by hand with an applicator and wiped off with a soft terry towel.



I hope this helps??





PS.:



Above took me about 8 hours to do incl. taping off some areas.

 

[howareb]

As always, Accumulator, has given some very wise advice for you to follow. Audi paint (especially BLACK) is perhaps one of the most diffult to work with IMO. When the clear is cold it does not respond much to correcting, however when it is warmer it takes just a light touch to scratch it.



Using a PC, as Accumulator pointed out, is to move slowly and with pressure. You have to create some friction. I persoanlly would never attempt to do an Audi with a PC (even though the 'course green pad' with Menzerna Power Finish combo is very impressive), seeing how the more powerful machines such as the Flex, has trouble. I am not saying that the PC will not work, It will just take up a lot of time as you have already seen. The key with the PC is pressure so that you create some fricition.



Also, IMO the 105/205 combo is kind of weak for Audi clears. I would suggest Menzerna Power Gloss/Power Finish and/or 106. The more I use Power Gloss, the more I appreciate how powerful it is on these tougher clears.



As A NOOBIE HD Uno would be an excellent choice as well. It allows for a long working time, so it may help you to get morecorrection befor the product starts to dust. It is also pretty impressive on the harder clears that I have used it on.

 

[TortoiseAWD]

For the OP, I'm not going to add to the good advice you've already received, but I feel your pain. I worked on a red Audi a couple of years ago for a friend, and had over 14 hours in it when I was done. I swear I could hear the paint giggling (with a German accent) at my futile attempts to get rid of the swirls.



Good luck,

Tort