"Protected" Leather recommendations

gonz0 said:
Is the Acura leather non-protected? Which also brings me to question, is the uprated 'Nappa' leather that Audi offers on the V6 A4, S4 and other models the same protected leather or is it unprotected.



99% of all auto leathers are protected. Only a few in the last few years have not been. Fords King ranch trucks for one. Before that you would need to search out cars like a porsche 356, and vehicles from the 30's. I have worked on a couple of cars from the later 40's (post wwII) and they were protected.
 
Is the Acura leather non-protected? Which also brings me to question, is the uprated 'Nappa' leather that Audi offers on the V6 A4, S4 and other models the same protected leather or is it unprotected.



I was told that Nappa leather is different, in terms of how it's supposed to be conditioned. I was told to use the Pinnacle cleaner and conditioner spray on Nappa. I know that i can use the Pinnacle or My Prima Nourish on the newer more thinner types of leather, i just know that the deep conditioning that Prima Nourish offers is perfect for the thicker leather that's found in the 90's model Acura's.:xyxthumbs
 
gonz0 said:
Is the Acura leather non-protected? Which also brings me to question, is the uprated 'Nappa' leather that Audi offers on the V6 A4, S4 and other models the same protected leather or is it unprotected.





I was told that Nappa leather is different, in terms of how it's supposed to be conditioned. I would use the Pinnacle cleaner and conditioner spray on Nappa. I know that i can use the Pinnacle cleaner and conditioner spray or My Prima Nourish on the newer more thinner types of leather, i just know that the deep conditioning that Prima Nourish offers is perfect for the thicker leather that's found in the 90's model Acura's.:cool:
 
Streetlife said:
I was told that Nappa leather is different, in terms of how it's supposed to be conditioned. I would use the Pinnacle cleaner and conditioner spray on Nappa. I know that i can use the Pinnacle cleaner and conditioner spray or My Prima Nourish on the newer more thinner types of leather, i just know that the deep conditioning that Prima Nourish offers is perfect for the thicker leather that's found in the 90's model Acura's.:cool:





If you are using Leather Masters soft/strong, vital, and protection cream then treat it like you would any other automotive protected leather.
 
I have used their vinyl but not sure if it is the same as the leather. The vinyl did leave a bit of a feel. I would not call it slick, or greasy, just noticeable.



As always I still prefer LM or 1z for a 1 step.
 
BuffMe said:
Leather can be tested by slightly scratching it with your nail. If it changes to a darker/lighter color, it is unprotected (i.e. how suede changes color depending on the fibers' orientation). If it doesn't do much, it is protected. Most cars have protected leather these days.



Incorrect. It can be difficult to tell sometimes, but the easiest way is the water test. If water beads on the leather, then it is probably finished leather. If it soaks in, then it is probably unfinished.
 
Quality Leather said:
Incorrect. It can be difficult to tell sometimes, but the easiest way is the water test. If water beads on the leather, then it is probably finished leather. If it soaks in, then it is probably unfinished.



technically you are both right, IICRC recognizes three tests Scratch, tactile, and moisture.
 
There are actually 5 steps to correct leather ID visual, tactile, scratch, moisture and microscope. The IICRC in the UK covers all 5 of these tests rather than just the 3. These tests only take a matter of minutes to perform and can tell you a lot of information including what can be cleaned and what cannot as well as what type of leather you have. A simple 40x pocket microscope is one of the most useful tools there is in a leather technicians toolkit but it is surprising how few people use them (however, you do need to know what you are looking for)
 
Bunky said:
The problem I see is that most "experts" seem to only want to discuss one pricey product when discussing protected leather.



They will not tell if you the many other products out there that are not true conditioners (i.e., not loaded with oils such as PB's Leather stuff or 4* Leather Conditioner , etc) are bad. etc. There is too much FUD being used to discuss this and makes me very suspicious. If coated leather is so much like vinyl, why does it take a very very expensive product to maintain it.



The many current conditioners on the market (the "bad" ones) do not seem to be DESTROYING leather apparently otherwise we would hear more about that. It also may involve theoretical aspects versus reality. That is, it is not that big of a deal.



:dance



I don't believe I have ever told people to use expensive products. Oh you meant experts.;)



As Judy said, cleaning is the most important aspect of preserving your leather. No conditioner is going to destroy the leather, but it isn't a panacea either. What Judy says is that over time a conditioner can accelerate the degradation of the leather coating. Whether that is true or not, I don't know.



Yes, you are correct that current leather coatings are pretty durable and long lasting. Eagle Ottawa says to just use a damp towel. I recommend using a mixture of 3% Joy and water for a cleaner. A Scotch Brite Delicate Duty (the white one) pad for scrubbing will clean into the grain of the leather while doing little damage to the coating. Is that satisfactory for inexpensive cleaning?



For what it is worth, I don't recommend leather conditioners. The humidity on the east coast keeps the leather pretty well hydrated. I am not sure if conditioners would help in a drier environment, but if it works for you then use it.



As for other leather repair products, I have recommended good quality and moderately expensive products. People love to pimp LeatherMaster and Leatherique. If I used these products, then I wouldn't make any money. I have never met a mobile tech that uses Leatherique products besides Rejuvinator and Prestine. Even then it was only a couple that used these two products. Leatherique has done a good job of marketing their product to their market.



On LeatherMaster, I have been underwhelmed. I went to Stainsafe training five years ago and felt like Indy in the South Park episode.:) I went by Leather Master when they where in Greensboro ten years ago and it was ok. LM is another company that has done a good job of marketing. I tried their repair products years ago and was unimpressed. Supposedly they have redone their repair line, but I am still skeptical. Their cleaners and conditioners are decent, but I don't think their anything special. My biggest problem is they are expensive. Their coatings are like two dollars an ounce. Give me a break. Most of you guys just use the cleaners and conditioners though. If you like them, then by all means continue.
 
IICRC is more of a cleaning organization.



Yes, I understand the other methods, but I doubt to many people will tell the difference based on touch. Suede or nubuck are about the only easy leathers to tell by touch.
 
Yes but it is all giving you information which is used to give you an overall identification of the leather. Unfinished leather feels very different to finished leather.
 
parused this thread quickly... i see costco has the magi seal, but i want to try the zaino as i have read it gives you that new leather smell, is that correcT???



and other recommendations? suggestions



phats
 
I use Zaino sometimes just for the smell, even though it does little to nothing for conditioning protected leathers. The smell is just that good.
 
NICE!! good to know..from the little reading Ive done here, conditioners are somewhat of a waste anyway... the cleaners are the key...



phats
 
I personally really like Lexol pH-Leathjer Cleaner first, then followed by a thin application of Lexol Leather Conditioner. I've used it in BMW and Audi with a great deal of success.



First, use the Lexol pH-Leather Cleaner. Apply just a bit to a damp terry face cloth and gently run it over the seat. It will foam up, and the dirt will be pulled out of the pores. Wipe it down a couple of times with a clean damp cloth. Then, follow up with Lexol Leather Conditioner while the seats are still damp.



I use a clean terry facecloth, and put about a quarter sized bit of Lexol conditioner on the cloth. Then, again, gently wipe over the seat. Let is sit and absorb into the leather for about 10-20 minutes. Wipe it down gently with anothe soft towel and voila! Your seats should look and feel great. Never sticky or oily or slippery.. just natural and clean and soft. I've used it for years and am very pleased.



We moved to Singapore, where its very hot and humid, and the Lexol has kept my seats in great shape. I buy it from local company, ProMedUSA online at Lexol® . In the states, you can find it just about anywhere.



I also use their KozaK Auto DryWash cloth to keep the exterior of my car cleaned and polished... without water and without any scratching! It really works well here in our warm climate. I buy that also from ProMedUSA at KozaK®



They have a very, very cute video on their website and on YouTube. Here's the hyperlink to it: YouTube - The KozaK Girl: Sexy Asian Girl Can Really Wipe Down a Car!



I think you'll really enjoy it!



Good luck with your seats!
 
Skimmed through this and still not getting it. My wife has a 2007 Acura MDX. I'm assuming it is protected. I tried Lexol on it and wasn't happy with the results. So, what is the recommended cleaner? water, woolite, what?
 
cptzippy said:
Skimmed through this and still not getting it. My wife has a 2007 Acura MDX. I'm assuming it is protected. I tried Lexol on it and wasn't happy with the results. So, what is the recommended cleaner? water, woolite, what?



If you didn't get good results with Lexol I'd suggest trying Zaino, Duragloss or Mothers.
 
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