Pros/Cons for MF Bonnet as final buff

[imported_MCA]

My current technique for LSP removal consists of using a Pakshak ultra plush or ultra MF towel for the initial pass. Once the product is removed from the entire car, I use a Pakshak ultra fine MF towel to wipe down the car again. I have definitely noticed a slightly improved finish when I use a second towel for another pass. My questions come regarding the use of the PC/MF bonnet as a replacement for my second wipedown pass.



- Would this further improve the appearance?



- Would the use of this combination compromise the layer of uncured product?



- Does the chances of marring increase due to the use of a PC/MF bonnet combination? Take into account that its bad form to use a dry pad directly on the car paint.



- For those who do use this technique, how many bonnets does it take for a final pass? Even though most of the product was removed with the first towel, I still frequently flip my ultra fine to give a "fresh" towel surface.



Thanks in advance and looking forward to comments and experiences.

 

[OCD Nick]

I've read from Mike @ MOL that wiping down the surface after the initial buff upsets the LSP's curing process and could effect the look. I dont think its that big of a deal.

 

[Accumulator]

- Would [doing the final buff by PC/MF bonnet] further improve the appearance?

Quite possibly, as the PC will probably give a more thorough buffing than you do by hand. But I could just as easily argue the other side too, that if you're doing the job right then the PC won't improve the results as they're already as good as it gets. So :nixweiss

- Would the use of this combination compromise the layer of uncured product?

Not in my experience. I've never found my LSPs to be fragile with regard to how many times I go over them. Never discerned any difference at all and I've experimented and looked specifically for this kind of issue.

- Does the chances of marring increase due to the use of a PC/MF bonnet combination? Take into account that its bad form to use a dry pad directly on the car paint.

No problem unless some abrasive dirt gets between the bonnet and the paint. Same risk you run when doing it by hand except that if you *do* get dirt on there the PC will make worse marring because it'll move faster/more often than your hand. Note that you're not using a dry pad on your paint, rather a dry MF bonnet. If your work environment is clean you should be OK.

- For those who do use this technique, how many bonnets does it take for a final pass? Even though most of the product was removed with the first towel, I still frequently flip my ultra fine to give a "fresh" towel surface.

Depends on how much LSP you put on and how much you take off with the first by-hand pass. I'd guess you'll need two bonnets and it's IMO always smart to have at least one spare of everything just because [stuff] happens.



FWIW, I do it a little differently, sorta the opposite way. I do my initial buffs with the MF bonnets and then I go over it one last time by hand, usually with a CBT (or a suede-style MF if using KSG). Having tried it both ways, I prefer doing it machine-then-hand. Doing it this way, I usually need two PC-size MF bonnets to do the A8, but then I put my LSPs on *very* thin. IMO most people would need more than two bonnets if doing it that way.