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Danase said:For polish I say just wait until you get the PC.
Vanilla Moose, Danase wet Glaze, 3M Imperial Hand Glaze
P21S is a great wax in my opinion.
Accumulator said:1Z polishes work quite well by hand, and are the only products I'd recommend for that type of application. I'd top with Collinite wax, probably the 845 IW if you want ease of application (no harder than P21S IMO).
Yeah, I like VM but it doesn't correct like the 1Z can and isn't any easier to use than some of their very mild products. Scratch-X is *NOT* my idea of an effective, user-friendly product (OK, it *can* be effective in the right hands).
3M IHG is just "makeup" and it's not all that user-friendly IMO. For something like that I'd rather use a Meguiar's "pure polish" but I'd still use a 1Z product instead.
[Note to self: try that Danase Speed Glaze that BlkZ28Conv sent!]
And yeah, I have all the above on the shelf; I'm speaking from first-hand experience, often direct, side-by-side comparisonFriends/in-laws without PCs are very happy with the 1Z/Collinite approach, especially the user-friendliness and nice steep learning curve (basically foolproof first time, every time).
Gee, the above sounds mighty opinionated, borderline ranting...really flaming the previous poster's suggerstionsHope I didn't sound too much like a [jerk].
03gtmustang said:For those recommending P21S wax, I heard it has no durability because it has bees wax in it? I havent used it, so I cant say for myself. But I use DP Max Wax, Pinnacle Liquid Souveran, Sig. Series II, and Souveran Paste. Talk about ease of use and great results!
JDookie said:I find P21S to be just as durable as most waxes, and def. more durable than Souveran. Here in the southern climate carnauba waxes really have a hard time of holding up, especially when ambient temps reach upper 90's. I can't even begin to imagine how bad surface temps are when sitting in the direct sunlight.
mikelea4ever said:What kind of wax would you use in a lite colored cars, like for e.g. Desert Sand Mica.?
zingyginger said:how do you layer collinite? or do you just wait until the beading stops, use p21s taw to remove and start over?