Product order and use, help...

F

Flash69

New member
Ok so I have almost all of PBs products. I have been spending time learning how to use them, however now I have the new PB stuff and I am not sure where to use them.

Here is what I did on my Black 99 Cobra today. I have a PC 7424.

SSR 2.5 - Lake Orange pad - spread on 3 - breakdown on 6
SSR 1 - Lake White pad - spread on 3 - breakdown on 6
Pro Polish - Lake White pad - spread on 3 - breakdown on 5
Black Hole - Lake Black pad - spread on 3 - breakdown on 5
PwC (Blue) - Lake Blue pad - spread on 3 - breakdown on 5
EX-P - hand

After 15 hours I will apply another coat of EX-P. Then after another 15 hours I am going to apply Natty's Red.

Am I using the products correctly and in the correct order?

The problem is I have really let my paint get bad on this car. I know I should be shot! I had to use this car for a daily driver for a long time and it has major rock chips and etched clear coat.

Also I would like to know what products can be used to remove 2000 grit wet sanding marks as I feel some of the problems will be removed with wet sanding.

Thanks
 
Well, if that is what you did, then you tell us. Did it work? Seems like that sort of barrage of products should have some impact on the appearance of the paint. I don't know if the ProPolish is necessary or the PwC, but I could be mistaken. I don't have much experience with Poorboy's products beyond the SSRs.
 
Seems like you can eliminate a step...or two...like Jngrbrdman said you don't really need the Pro Polish or the PWC, unless you substitute the SSR1 with the PWC...

Also with blackhole, you don't really have to break it down persay, just spread an even thin layer across the paint...
 
Jngrbrdman said:
Well, if that is what you did, then you tell us. Did it work?
Click to expand...

Well I still see small specs in the paint. Looks like something is on the paint but that's not possible. Maybe more clear coat etching that I can't feel? I dont see the specs in the back part of the car.

Also I still see small scratches that look like swirls but I have to get really close to see them. So I really don't know what I am doing wrong. :wall

Also I thought Pro Polish was like a chemical cleaner, so I don't need to use it?

Flash
 
Here is from what I know of Poorboys products. Pro Polish is a chemical polish and depending on the type of pad and if using a rotary or DA will change the cuting power that it has. pro polish can cut like SSR2.5 or it can cut like SSR 1 depending on the pad combo.
The SSR line is a diminishing compound/polish. So as you are working it breaks down and works like a finer polish. This help eliminates some extra steps and results in a beautiful deep shine.

With that being said, since it looks like you have already used pro polish and SSR 2.5 and you are still in need of removing other defects. I would recomend using a rotary to get the other scratches out and if you wet sand then you will defently need the rotary for that. I know some folks on DC have had luck removing wet sanding marks with a DA but I first learned with a rotary so that is my first choice. If you haven't used a rotary before I would recomend trying it on a few junkers first. This is a tool that takes time to learn and will cause damage if not used correctly. I've been using a rotary for over 10 years and I'm still learning to use it with new products all the time.

I agree with the rest that you have used quite a few steps that some could be eliminated help save your back and your paint.

Maybe Steve will chime in and help out as well.

I hope I have helped,

Chubs
 
Pictures of this remaining damage would help too. It is possible that what you have is just fractured clearcoat. Sometimes these cracks will be practially invisible until you polish the car and then small particles of the polish will get caught in them. Your car is of the age that these cracks could very well be showing up, especially if it was neglected like you say. There isn't any way to fix these cracks if that is what you have. It literally looks just like lint sometimes and can be hard to identify at first.
 
I think you wasted your time with the Black hole, because you polished it all off with PwC. Black hole is a glaze and glazes fill in swirls and fine scratches and when you used PwC you removed all the fillers,also I don't think you want to "break down" a glaze you would want to put it on and remove it. So I would have skipped the PwC.
 
Flash69 said:
Ok so I have almost all of PBs products. I have been spending time learning how to use them, however now I have the new PB stuff and I am not sure where to use them.

Here is what I did on my Black 99 Cobra today. I have a PC 7424.

SSR 2.5 - Lake Orange pad - spread on 3 - breakdown on 6
SSR 1 - Lake White pad - spread on 3 - breakdown on 6
Pro Polish - Lake White pad - spread on 3 - breakdown on 5
Black Hole - Lake Black pad - spread on 3 - breakdown on 5
PwC (Blue) - Lake Blue pad - spread on 3 - breakdown on 5
EX-P - hand

After 15 hours I will apply another coat of EX-P. Then after another 15 hours I am going to apply Natty's Red.

Am I using the products correctly and in the correct order?

The problem is I have really let my paint get bad on this car. I know I should be shot! I had to use this car for a daily driver for a long time and it has major rock chips and etched clear coat.

Also I would like to know what products can be used to remove 2000 grit wet sanding marks as I feel some of the problems will be removed with wet sanding.

Thanks
Click to expand...

Some good advice so far :rockon
Seeing a picture would surely help ;)
My advice here:
  1. skip the Pro Polish and PwC steps
  2. you may have to use the SSR2.5 more than once before getting to the SSR1
  3. turn down the speed on the Black Hole and let it do its job of cleaning and hiding
:)
 
Sorry for not getting back here sooner, this week has been busy.

Ok I will try to take some pictures however I am not sure how well they will work. I figured I was doing something wrong when it took me 2 hours for just the hood. :notme: Oh well live and learn!

BTW - the surface feels great. I don't think it was this smooth when Ford built it.
 
Stephan said:
Also with blackhole, you don't really have to break it down persay, just spread an even thin layer across the paint...
Click to expand...


And that right there is the million dollar answer I have been searching for.

So just apply it like a wax basically then remove. Or should it be worked in somewhat with the LC Black Pad?

Steve what speed would you suggest wiht the PC?
 
Flash69 said:
Sorry for not getting back here sooner, this week has been busy.

Ok I will try to take some pictures however I am not sure how well they will work. I figured I was doing something wrong when it took me 2 hours for just the hood. :notme: Oh well live and learn!

BTW - the surface feels great. I don't think it was this smooth when Ford built it.
Click to expand...

Working a couple hours on a hood is no surprise here... if it needs the work and you are trying to do the best you can, it can easily take that long... remember that the hood takes the worst beating of the whole car. It gets hot, it gets the head on bugs and rocks and since it's pretty flat, everything lands on it(rain, dirt.etc.)

97F1504x4 said:
And that right there is the million dollar answer I have been searching for.

So just apply it like a wax basically then remove. Or should it be worked in somewhat with the LC Black Pad?

Steve what speed would you suggest wiht the PC?
Click to expand...

yes it's a true glaze, just work it with a finishing pad at speed 1 or 2 until the shine comes through..let it haze , and buff it off. :)
 
Flash69 said:
Ok so I have almost all of PBs products. I have been spending time learning how to use them, however now I have the new PB stuff and I am not sure where to use them.

Here is what I did on my Black 99 Cobra today. I have a PC 7424.

SSR 2.5 - Lake Orange pad - spread on 3 - breakdown on 6
SSR 1 - Lake White pad - spread on 3 - breakdown on 6
Pro Polish - Lake White pad - spread on 3 - breakdown on 5
Black Hole - Lake Black pad - spread on 3 - breakdown on 5
PwC (Blue) - Lake Blue pad - spread on 3 - breakdown on 5
EX-P - hand

After 15 hours I will apply another coat of EX-P. Then after another 15 hours I am going to apply Natty's Red.

Am I using the products correctly and in the correct order?

The problem is I have really let my paint get bad on this car. I know I should be shot! I had to use this car for a daily driver for a long time and it has major rock chips and etched clear coat.

Also I would like to know what products can be used to remove 2000 grit wet sanding marks as I feel some of the problems will be removed with wet sanding.

Thanks
Click to expand...

Did you clay at all?
 
Playr said:
Did you clay at all?
Click to expand...

I clayed the car about 6 months ago. I know everyone is going to say clay it again, however it's been driven on the road about 2 times since then and its only been out of the garage maybe 5-6 times since claying. This car stays in the garage. I might have put 100 miles on it in 2007.

The surface feels great; nice and smooth. It just looks bad because I am a little OCD. I see things most people can't! Except my fellow OCD detailers!
 
Flash69 said:
I clayed the car about 6 months ago. I know everyone is going to say clay it again, however it's been driven on the road about 2 times since then and its only been out of the garage maybe 5-6 times since claying. This car stays in the garage. I might have put 100 miles on it in 2007.

The surface feels great; nice and smooth. It just looks bad because I am a little OCD. I see things most people can't! Except my fellow OCD detailers!
Click to expand...


I'm with you no need to clay under those circumstances.
 
Ok, I can't get good pictures of the spots I am talking about. After working on the car more today I think the spots are in the clear coat. The spots are very small and are mostly on the front of the car. I think this damage could easly be removed with a rotary however I don't own one. So I will have to live with it as I don't see myself getting a rotary at this time. :wall :surrender

On another note I removed the Pro Polish and PwC and it seems the results are the same.

I do have major dusting anytime I use a 6.5 inch full size pad. I have a few 5.5 inch low profile pads and I don't have this problem when I use them. I think I am not using enough product.

Steve can you fly down to Austin and teach me the tricks? :) If it counts I have almost all of your products! :yourrock :bow
 
Flash69 said:
Ok, I can't get good pictures of the spots I am talking about. After working on the car more today I think the spots are in the clear coat. The spots are very small and are mostly on the front of the car. I think this damage could easly be removed with a rotary however I don't own one. So I will have to live with it as I don't see myself getting a rotary at this time. :wall :surrender

On another note I removed the Pro Polish and PwC and it seems the results are the same.

I do have major dusting anytime I use a 6.5 inch full size pad. I have a few 5.5 inch low profile pads and I don't have this problem when I use them. I think I am not using enough product.

Steve can you fly down to Austin and teach me the tricks? :) If it counts I have almost all of your products! :yourrock :bow
Click to expand...

There are very few perfect clearcoats so don't drive yourself crazy... Dusting is usually the result of too little product and heat build up on a pad.
I have also noticed that if a pad is not well cleaned or starts to age, it can cause dusting... :hmmm:
I'd love to fly down, but then you'd have to come here and watch my kids and run the business with Pockets:D
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top