Problems with PCXP

fergnation

fergnation

New member
It seems like I have been burnt again with a DA. I went through three UDM's in a year. So when the new PCXP came out I jumped on a sale with Autogeek. i use my RO's 95% of the time but came across some sticky paint on a Range Rover. So I broke out my PCXP. The KB method worked so well that I used the PC again on the next car. Two cars and the head unit is ready to fall off.:hairpull



I had this happen with the UDM on the front end of a AM Vanquish and caused $800 in damage. I have no more than 15 hrs of polishing with this PCXP unit and maybe six cars worth of sealant application.



So? first of all, what can I do about it. Do they have a warranty with them? Second, Has anyone else had this kind of problem? Why can my Makitas go forever but a simple little DA can't seem to stand up to any kind of consistent use.?:hm
 
IIRC, the new XP has a 3 year warranty. contact where you got it from or call porter cable directly and find out what you need to do to get a replacement or get it fixed...
 
Thanks BigAl. I will contact Autogeek. Just frustrated with these damn things always breaking on me. Just wish I could buy things locally so I don't have to deal with things through emails and shipping.



By the way just saw you half bottle of black wow. Have a customer with a Chevy Avalanche that the black plastic that covers 50% of the truck has become really faded white. Would that stuff help the plastic on one of those trucks?
 
fergnation said:
Thanks BigAl. I will contact Autogeek. Just frustrated with these damn things always breaking on me. Just wish I could buy things locally so I don't have to deal with things through emails and shipping.



By the way just saw you half bottle of black wow. Have a customer with a Chevy Avalanche that the black plastic that covers 50% of the truck has become really faded white. Would that stuff help the plastic on one of those trucks?
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if you are worried about the D/A breaking on you all the time, check out the new Griots 6" random orbital if you decide to purchase another D/A. reviews from some have mentioned it has a little more power than the XP,G110, etc,. AND has a Lifetime Warranty...



Griot's Garage 6" Random Orbital - Griot's Garage

10750
 
My PC is new but it does feel like it's gonna fall apart, straight out of the box...

Wonder if the added pressure with the KB method has anything to do with it??

Probably...
 
Is this a new version of their polisher. I used one about two years ago and the head unit seemed kind of silly to me. I might look into it if this is maybe a newer version.
 
fergnation said:
Is this a new version of their polisher. I used one about two years ago and the head unit seemed kind of silly to me. I might look into it if this is maybe a newer version.
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yes, new and improved. i haven't heard anyone complain about this new one just yet (850 watt motor)...
 
Flashtime said:
Wonder if the added pressure with the KB method has anything to do with it??

Probably...
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Yeah, IMO the lots-of-pressure techniques that're so common these days are beyond what the designers envisioned.



This reminds me of Flex 3401 issues...people press so hard that the backing plate not only contacts the felt ring but even grinds against the housing.



Consider that the designers might've had the old "let the product do the work" mindset, where added pressure was considered a no-no.
 
Accumulator said:
Yeah, IMO the lots-of-pressure techniques that're so common these days are beyond what the designers envisioned.
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I have never worn a PC out like you describe and I've used them as long or longer than anyone but I don't use the KBM



I use firm pressure, usually about 15 to 20 pounds against the head unit but the pad can still rotate at somewhat of a clip. Nothing like what I've seen other's do when they just shove that thing into the paint and it can barely rotate the pad.





Accumulator said:
Consider that the designers might've had the old "let the product do the work" mindset, where added pressure was considered a no-no.
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When I first started posting to forums everything I ever read said something like use light pressure and let the product do the work.



It read like whoever wrote the instruction never actually buffed out an entire car and definitely never removed swirls, just applied products and wiped them off.



Modern clear coats tend to be harder than traditional single stage paints, that doesn't mean ALL clear coat paints are hard, it just means they TEND to be harder than old style single stage lacquers and enamels. For this reason it's more difficult to remove defects out of them which means abrading a little paint off the surface.



As more and more people have transitioned from working by hand to working with DA Polishers and as people that are primarily RB guys have included PC's to their arsenal, the trend has been and continues to be to push this tool to it's limit.



Some jobs are better done with the right tool and in some cases that's going to be the rotary buffer.





:)
 
Mike Phillips said:
...

When I first started posting to forums everything I ever read said something like use light pressure and let the product do the work.



It read like whoever wrote the instruction never actually buffed out an entire car...
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Heh heh, yeah :xyxthumbs



I sometimes wonder just how much hands-on polishing some people have really done. But then I also wonder whether machines originally designed as sanders have actually been field-tested as polishers by the manufacturers.



I have never worn a PC out like you describe and I've used them as long or longer than anyone but I don't use the KBM..
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Yeah, the only PC I've ever had rebuilt wasn't subjected to any excessive pressure, and I figured its issues was just "one of those things".



But when I see pics of all the backing plate failures, or pics of a Flex where the backing plate is ground down from contact with the housing, or where the Flex's gear teeth are all rounded over, I figure some people are subjecting their polishers to a lot more pressure than I do.





Modern clear coats tend to be harder than traditional single stage paints, that doesn't mean ALL clear coat paints are hard, it just means they TEND to be harder than old style single stage lacquers and enamels...
Click to expand...



Heh heh, and to think we used to "hand rub" lacquer with #7 on cotton!
 
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