Problems with M105

Y

Yamaha0219

New member
I just bought a "new to me" white 2005 F250. I know white is hard to see defects but I can tell by looking at the truck it needs a good amount of work. I have M105 and M205, I'm fine working with the 205 but always run into problems with the 105 (mainly it drying too fast and hard to remove).



Can anyone recommend a compound that I can work with a DA and 5.5" pads that can be followed up by M205?
 
You need to do some reading on #105. Search under Kevin Brown Method and you'll find plenty. Key is priming the pad. I first spritz Megs #34 on the pad and fold it in, then apply the #105 and prime the pad. Then go at it! Other recent methods recommend using baby oil on pad.



Jim
 
Yamaha0219 said:
I just bought a "new to me" white 2005 F250. I know white is hard to see defects but I can tell by looking at the truck it needs a good amount of work. I have M105 and M205, I'm fine working with the 205 but always run into problems with the 105 (mainly it drying too fast and hard to remove).



Can anyone recommend a compound that I can work with a DA and 5.5" pads that can be followed up by M205?
Click to expand...



While I'd just tweak your technique until you get the hang of M105, you might be happier with the new Optimum Spray Compound.



On the M105, I bet you need to work smaller areas and spritz on a little M34 before you buff off the residue.
 
on another forum someone did alot of reasearch and found that one of the lubricateing ingredients in 105 is mineral oil(baby oil). spritz the pad with 2 sprays and you get like 5 minutes worth of working time
 
Thanks for the help, I've been trying to tweak my technique every chance I get. I've tried using a purple wool pad, orange CCS pad, megs burgandy cutting pad, I feel like its a hit or miss, sometimes it works perfect, other times im ready to throw the polisher across the garage.



Normally I'll work low and slow at first (like on a 3 with a little pressure) and then move up to speed 6 with no pressure. Am I completely wrong?...need to watch some more youtube videos I guess.
 
Accumulator said:
While I'd just tweak your technique until you get the hang of M105, you might be happier with the new Optimum Spray Compound.



On the M105, I bet you need to work smaller areas and spritz on a little M34 before you buff off the residue.
Click to expand...



I agree Accumulator. I bought the new Optimum Hyper Compound Spray as well as the new Hyper Polish Spray. I must say that the work time is incredible with these. It seems like it can be worked forever, and the results are quite better than M205/105 (IMO).
 
You need to properly prime the pad with M105 as noted above. Then clean the pad with a brush and compressed air after each panel.
 
toymachine2009 said:
Does The Spray compound work good with DA's though.. Thats my question...
Click to expand...



They work very well with the PC. Someone put a scratch in my wife's black Hyundai Santa Fe, so I had to do some wet sanding, and wouldn't you know it, my first project with the spray polish. Normally, I would use a rotary to polish out wet sanding marks, but some spray Hyper Compound on an LC Orange and PC, ran at speed 6 after spreading for about 2-3 minutes, and it completely took out ALL wet sanding marks and left it nearly LSP ready. I just refined it a tad more with Menz 85rd and it was perfect.
 
prime the pad with M105
Click to expand...



That's the key. Don't prime the pad with anything but 105 when using a DA.



I checked out Bryan's instructions before using 105 for the first time (KBM w/ orange pad link tips - link above). Works great. Cleaning the pad frequently is KEY.
 
105 has a very narrow working range, it definitely has a learning curve. If its drying out too fast, you either have too much speed or too little product. Don't add to much product though, otherwise you'll experience the epic splatter it is capable of.
 
I went through some tough times with M105, mainly thinking I knew what I was doing and not getting the results everybody was talking about. Then I read this article by Todd over on TID, I tried it and by golly - it worked!
 
Yamaha0219 said:
Thanks for the help, I've been trying to tweak my technique every chance I get. I've tried using a purple wool pad, orange CCS pad, megs burgandy cutting pad, I feel like its a hit or miss, sometimes it works perfect, other times im ready to throw the polisher across the garage...
Click to expand...



Note that sometimes using a different pad really *can* make all the diff, and it seems to be some kind of "matching the pad to the paint" sort of thing were one combo just works better/worse on a particular vehicle; not *you*, just the pad.

Normally I'll work low and slow at first (like on a 3 with a little pressure) and then move up to speed 6 with no pressure. Am I completely wrong?...need to watch some more youtube videos I guess.
Click to expand...



Not completely wrong..just that first part (which *is* completely wrong for M105 :D ). Don't do the low speed/low pressure; don't do *anything* like that (no product spreading either)...that's contributing to the product drying out on you.



Just put the polisher on the paint with the speed set on "6", turn it on, and use uniform pressure that's appropriate for the paint in question (usually at least moderate pressure).



I save any "zero applied pressure" work for very soft paint or very minor correction, or for refining the finish if you want to try doing that with M105 (on a finishing pad).



When trying to remove defects, I generally find that "letting the product do the work" still requires at least some moderate applied pressure, even with M105.
 
I use Megs Ultimate Compound instead of 105 slightly and in my case very slightly less cut but much longer working time and less dust. Looking to try the Opt. spray polishes though
 
Kind of a thread jack so sorry OP, but still M105 deal.



When we say moderate pressure or X vs Y lbs of pressure I tend to feel a tad disconnected. I put a mark on my backing plate with a sharpie so that I can see revolutions vs time and that's how I gauge "pressure". Therefore, my question is: Moderate to Heavy pressure would mean roughly how many revolutions per second - 1 second? 2? 3? Etc...



In addition, my detailing dummy is my daily driven Brilliant Black Audi with some heavy swirling and I was recommended the HT Cyan/Tangerine M105/M205 combo with the PCXP; however, I feel as though I may need to bump up to the SurBuf pad as after 2 passes M105/cyan and 1 pass M205/Tangerine I'm left with about 40% of the swirls remaining. Should I bump to SurBuf or just keep making heavy (1 rotation per second) pressure passes until desired correction with Cyan/M105?



Once again, sorry for thread jack, but is still relevant. Love this site and almost TOO much info to sort through sometimes ha, TIA! =]
 
brandn3w- I can't help with the "rotational speed" thing as I seem to lose any sense of time/timing whenever I do this stuff..but generally I'll apply pretty much pressure to where the pad slows down but does still rotate. If it's rotating *VERY* slowly..like, just barely still doing it, I'll usually lighten up so it rotates a bit more/faster. Remember that the rotation does contribute to the correction, especially it seems with M105.



You could upgrade to SurBufs but only for those once-in-a-lifetime type corrections, sure wouldn't want to do that very often!



When I read about "two passes with M105" not doing much on an Audi, I myself think "well, of course not". I've done more passes than that on them with a rotary and harsh pad/product combos. Some of this stuff just takes time on cars like that with hard clear and I kinda like the safety aspect of things happening incrementally. No, I don't want to spend forever doing this stuff, but M105 on a cutting pad is nothing to sneeze at.



My GMs are a little softer than my Audis, and I do more than two passes with the M105 combo on them even with the Flex and a lot of applied pressure.



What size pads are you using? If larger than 5.5" then I'd be thinking about smaller ones. And remember to keep those pads *VERY* clean when using M105.
 
That's more reassuring thank you! Just coming from a n00b using aggressive pressure I get worried something is going right. Pads are 5.5" so ok there. Just need to spend more time on the car, but don't wanna work it for 5 passes for 85% correction hence surbuf pad as a quicker more efficient alternative to numerous passes. This is also a reason why I asked about pressure as I wasn't sure if I buried down TOO much and it didn't spin fast enough to cut. So thanks for the reassuring post though as stated just frustrating wiping with IPA and still seeing half of you defects. Regardless, thank God for correction I do get and can get further just seeking advanced advice for the semantics. :-)
 
brandn3w said:
Kind of a thread jack so sorry OP, but still M105 deal.



When we say moderate pressure or X vs Y lbs of pressure I tend to feel a tad disconnected. I put a mark on my backing plate with a sharpie so that I can see revolutions vs time and that's how I gauge "pressure". Therefore, my question is: Moderate to Heavy pressure would mean roughly how many revolutions per second - 1 second? 2? 3? Etc...



In addition, my detailing dummy is my daily driven Brilliant Black Audi with some heavy swirling and I was recommended the HT Cyan/Tangerine M105/M205 combo with the PCXP; however, I feel as though I may need to bump up to the SurBuf pad as after 2 passes M105/cyan and 1 pass M205/Tangerine I'm left with about 40% of the swirls remaining. Should I bump to SurBuf or just keep making heavy (1 rotation per second) pressure passes until desired correction with Cyan/M105?



Once again, sorry for thread jack, but is still relevant. Love this site and almost TOO much info to sort through sometimes ha, TIA! =]
Click to expand...



Since you mentioned about a Black Audi, this is a black A5 at Audi dealership. Lots of deep swirls and deep, fine scratches.

Just finished 105 with wool and pic taken.

Car was extensively detailed for A5 media launch event.

2ndbatchPicture420.jpg


On such a hard clearcoat, I always start with Megs 4ply wool + 105.

This'll get rid of all the deep and shallow scratches in one go. Then, I spend my time to remove the 105-induced swirls and refine the finish. If I try to be less aggressive by using foam cutting pads, lots of the deeper scratches remain. These cars will be exhibited under 20+ studio spotlights (!!!) and professional "intelligent lights" (those robotic ones that're actually projector lights). The slightest flaw will be highlighted.



Kill that enemy...don't bother with the 5.56mm and 7.62mm.

Just go for the.50 caliber:dance:dance
 
gigondaz said:
Kill that enemy...don't bother with the 5.56mm and 7.62mm.

Just go for the.50 caliber...
Click to expand...



IF (one mighty big "if" IMO) you're OK with taking off that much clear and don't plan on having to do it again very soon ;) Yeah, I've *hammered* some of my vehicles to get 'em really nice, but I'm not gonna correct 'em like that again either.



Heh heh, if there's a reason to keep the clear nice and thick, then one might want to stick with a mouse-gun after all, to keep the firearm analogy going :D
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top