Prep for the Klasse Twins

grnzoom

New member
I just placed my order for the Klasse Twins.

My questions is: I have several coats of NuFinish and couple of S100 on my emerald mica green '01 Miata.

Should I strip off the NuFinish with dawn and start over,

or just wash, dry and apply?



Thanks.

Nick

ZOOM-ZOOM:bounce
 
Dawn won't strip NuFinish.



As mlebarron said, use the AIO.



Wash and clay to get the surface nice and smooth, and then apply the AIO and expect to be amazed.
 
Use clay bar before AIO. 2 coats of AIO. 1st coat will remove any wax. 2nd coat will put more acrylic on the paint. Seal it with SG. 2 or more coats (24 hr. intervals).
 
The AIO will remove the other products, but there is nothing wrong with washing with Dawn to get off as much of the old stuff as you can prior to claying. Many enthusiasts use Dawn prior to waxing and I have never heard any negative reports about it harming the paint in any way.
 
Do you guys put on any products for surface prep before or after the AIO. Maybe like DACP before aio and VM or something with oils and polish after AIO???
 
You definately don't want anything with oils on after AIO if you plan on using the other twin, SG. They will affect the bonding of SG.
 
CleanMachine said:
Do you guys put on any products for surface prep before or after the AIO. Maybe like DACP before aio and VM or something with oils and polish after AIO???



As Scott P said, you want to go directly from AIO to SG with nothing in between.



As far as what products you use BEFORE the AIO, it depends on your surface. AIO will NOT remove marring, so if you have any swirls/scrateches/etc. then yeah, use something like DACP, 3m PI-III MG, or some other mild abrasive (but use something stronger than VM). If the polish leaves any hard-to-remove residue on the finish, the AIO will clean it right off.
 
Acehole said:
The AIO will remove the other products, but there is nothing wrong with washing with Dawn to get off as much of the old stuff as you can prior to claying. Many enthusiasts use Dawn prior to waxing and I have never heard any negative reports about it harming the paint in any way.



You are correct that a Dawn wash once or twice a year would not harm the paint. However, the rubber seals and trim can be dried out by Dawn. DavidB and many other people have mentioned this in various posts.



However, having said that, many people incorporate Dawn into their routine. It's just that some of us prefer to use products designed specifically for cleaning automotive paints, rather than using a degreaser like Dawn. I equate it to using diluted Simple Green to strip wax. That will work too, and I have used it to remove stubborn tar stains, but I don't think anyone here would use it all over the car to strip wax. :eek:
 
2wheelsx2 said:
However, having said that, many people incorporate Dawn into their routine. It's just that some of us prefer to use products designed specifically for cleaning automotive paints, rather than using a degreaser like Dawn.



As someone who's somewhat new around here all I've seen recommended for removing wax, etc. is Dawn dishwashing liquid. What other products are you referring to?



Thanks,



-Taz
 
Tazmo- A good example of a Dawn-alternative is AutoInt's ABC system, or maybe even just the "A" part of it (the alkaline/base part). *I* like the ABC for those times when I need some REALLY intensive cleaning (and I swear by it for the initial prep of new vehicles) but I've (maybe I should say "*I'VE*", you know, disclaimers and all that...)*NEVER* had any problems from using Dawn.
 
Any paint cleanser, like PPCL, SEC, GEPC, Mother's, Meguiar's, will all remove everything down to clearcoat. And of course, if you're using the Klasse system, AIO itself is a paint cleaner.



The only time where Dawn is warranted, in my opinion, is if you are using the Zaino system, where the system has no cleaners in the product catalogue, so you need to remove whatever residue is left from the paint cleansers (some of the cleansers have fillers).



Pure carnauba waxes, Poorboy's, Klasse, Platinum and such don't really have a problem with having fillers and oil left on the surface.
 
Thanks for the pointers to the various products, guys. I'm embarking on a mission to remove a very recent "sealant" and wax job the previous owner had done (unfortunately, by a so-called detail shop that got tooo happy with a rotary.)



Don't know exactly what's on there...but it's been recently done and I want to strip through it and prepare for the Klasse Twins. I wasn't exactly too keen on trusting that Dawn would do the job, but it just seemed I kept seeing it recommended all over the forum. And, I didn't want to use Isopropyl Alcohol because (as much as it pains me to admit it in front of real Autopians) I'm a noob at all this.



Really appreciate all you "old hands" still willing to share your hard-earned knowledge.



-Taz
 
By "happy with a rotary" do you mean that are "rainbow" type swirl marks on the car? If so, you're going to need an abrasive, like DACP and a PC to remove though, otherwise, you'll end up with a nice sealant showing the flaws underneath.
 
Tazmo- As 2wheelsx2 said, you're gonna need to use SOME kind of abrasive to remove the marring you mentioned. This abrasive will also remove any sealant/wax/etc. on the finish so there's no need to remove it as a separate step.



Yikes, just noticed my double post...better do something about that!
 
Accumulator & 2wheelsx2...thanks again to you both.



So...if I just wash with normal shampoo & clay prior to AIO, I should be good to go? My concern was that Dawn would not strip off a recent polymer product application and I was looking for something else to wash with..something that wouldn't be so hard on the rubber seals...which, on this car, are in need of some rejuvination anyway.



By the way, AutoInts ABC system looks like the holy grail when it comes to the ultimate paint prep. I take it it's only available through distributors? Also been reading tons of Ron's old threads...the man appears to know his chemistry.



Not sure I need to go that heavy duty of a route, however. But it does appear that who ever went over this car with a rotary (or whatever) wasn't "even" in his distribution of cutting power. That is...there are no rainbow swirls or anything, but there are large areas that, well, just seem to have been heated more than they should have been. More something you can feel with your hand as you run it over the paint.



Other than that, I've got some crackling or spiderwebbing going on...something mainly seen when under flourescent lights or bright sun. Not sure how much is due to the fact that the paint is 10 years old and how much is due to normal micro-abrassions. Also not sure if I should go straight to DACP to try and get rid of these...or if I should start with something less abrassive. (Open to suggeston on these less abrassive type of products.) The color of the car is silver, by the way.



-Taz
 
Tazmo- Aha! A silver car, eh? Right down my alley.



ABC is, as far as I know, only available directly from AutoInt.



It sounds like you need to use SOME kind of abrasive before using the AIO, so just wash normally and clay while you're doing it. The clay might help with the "feel" of your paint.



To remove your marring, *I* would try either 1Z's Paint Polish (green can) or 3M PI-III MG (pn 05937). Either of these would be pretty mild (maybe TOO mild!), but would still make a big improvement. OR just use the DACP. *I* sincerely doubt that it would be too aggressive for your application. Remember to REALLY work the DACP if you choose to use it, you need to break down its abrasives. Sounds like you have years of abuse to deal with, so a pretty intensive session (not to be repeated regularly) will probably be in order.



Follow the above polishing with AIO and SG. If marring/etc. is still visible even after multiple layers of SG, consider a wax topper, using a wax that fills/hides such things.
 
Accumulator:



I'd been eyeing the 3M PI-III MG, but had overlooked the 1Z's Paint Polish product in my research. Thanks for the pointer.



Actually, in trying to be honest with myself, I'm not so sure I'm all THAT bothered by the swirl marks/spiderwebbing (or whatever) as the metalic silver hides it pretty well. (It's just that I know they are there :) )



But after some heavy duty reading this weekend (the collective knowledge of you guys here on the forum is awesome) I *think* I've decided to give Meg's #9 w/ a yellow pad a go, and then do the AIO/SG + S100 thing.



It's a daily driver anyway (94 LS400), and I got it for a song from the original owner. It really wasn't neglected, but then again, it wasn't taken care of from an enthusiast's point of view. Bottom line...no matter which route I go, I'm sure it'll be able to make some kind of improvement on it.



Thanks again for all the input.



-Taz
 
I heard somewhere that the Menzerna polishes work good with Klasse due to their being a pure polish without fillers, silicone, etc.
 
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