Well I'm looking at a couple RX7s, and a friend of a friend can give me a really good deal on a new paintjob if I get the prep and priming done myself, so I was wondering if you guys could give me any pointers. I know the basics, but if theres any first hand experience that you wanna share, please do!
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Prep car for paint?
- Thread starter metal
- Start date
06Accordx2
New member
There's much more to paint prep than most people think. It's 80% of how the final job will look. First, I'd suggest you let a body shop do the prep work. They're more experienced, have the right equipment, and know what to look for. If you're serious about how your car is going to look, this isn't the time to save a few bucks.
That being said, much depends on the condition of the original paint/body. If it's pretty bad, start with a #220 sanding, followed by a #320 sanding. You'll need a D/A sander for most of the car, the smaller areas require hand sanding. Do not try to remove the original paint any more than necessary to get it smooth. It's the best base you could have. Next is too fix any small dings/dents. These small areas will have to be ground down to the metal, and the metal scuffed with a course paper like #180.
After sanding/shaping the plastic with #180,#220, then #320, these areas will have to be primed, as well as any areas showing bare metal. There's no sense in priming the whole car. Sand the primer with #320. The painter will still have to give it a final sanding just to get it clean before entering the spray booth, then use a Tac cloth once inside.
This is absolute basic info. Every car I've painted was judged on it's own needs. But, they should all be the same when entering the booth. The trick is too know how to get each car to that point. For example, lacquer paint sinks really bad, but it's nice to work with and shines like hell. But, a final sanding of #400, then a wet #400 sanding was always necessary because of the sinking. Most paint jobs today are enamal, so that isn't a concern.
As mentioned earlier, and I can't stress it enough, this isn't the time to save money. Let the pro's do the prep work.
That being said, much depends on the condition of the original paint/body. If it's pretty bad, start with a #220 sanding, followed by a #320 sanding. You'll need a D/A sander for most of the car, the smaller areas require hand sanding. Do not try to remove the original paint any more than necessary to get it smooth. It's the best base you could have. Next is too fix any small dings/dents. These small areas will have to be ground down to the metal, and the metal scuffed with a course paper like #180.
After sanding/shaping the plastic with #180,#220, then #320, these areas will have to be primed, as well as any areas showing bare metal. There's no sense in priming the whole car. Sand the primer with #320. The painter will still have to give it a final sanding just to get it clean before entering the spray booth, then use a Tac cloth once inside.
This is absolute basic info. Every car I've painted was judged on it's own needs. But, they should all be the same when entering the booth. The trick is too know how to get each car to that point. For example, lacquer paint sinks really bad, but it's nice to work with and shines like hell. But, a final sanding of #400, then a wet #400 sanding was always necessary because of the sinking. Most paint jobs today are enamal, so that isn't a concern.
As mentioned earlier, and I can't stress it enough, this isn't the time to save money. Let the pro's do the prep work.
imported_steveo3002
New member
id suggest you ask the painter what he wants from you...its no good us saying rub down with xx grade paper when the painter wants something else
if you have no idea what to do , you probably wont be able to a good enough job
why not buy a few books or help out at the shop to get a better idea of whats involved
if you have no idea what to do , you probably wont be able to a good enough job
why not buy a few books or help out at the shop to get a better idea of whats involved
06Accordx2
New member
steveo3002 said:help out at the shop to get a better idea of whats involved
This is an excellant suggestion. :2thumbs: The work is actually fun, and it's quite staisfying to see the fruit of your labor when it's done.
I only offered the basic routine of prepping a car to show you how involved it is. Each car is different. Your painter might only want you to do the rough sanding, leaving the final sanding to him. I personally would not paint a car that an amatuer prepped without going over it myself. It's my reputation on the line. Many shops have apprentice painters. I always had one who did a lot of the grunt work and masking. Eventually, they will learn to paint, but only after really knowing the prep work.