Pre Wax Cleaner require?

D

drifts500

New member
Long ago, before I learned basic meaning of detailing, I bought



Meguiar's Pre Wax Cleaner, which I thought it was wax :LOLOL



However, I found that it was wax cleaner prior to "real wax".



After claying, do I need to use pre wax cleaner prior to wax or just wax it?



Oh..One more question. I bought Finishi Kare Paint Decontamination System, but no idea how to use it. It will arrive here tomorrow. Since my car has serious rail dusts (orange dots), I really hope the system will remove all dusts. (Even I used aggressive clays)



Thanks!
 
Step 1 is used like a regular wash - I like to give the car a regular wash with a regular shampoo before step 1 as I like to know a safe lubricating shampoo removed the surface dirt prior to Step 1.



***Don't allow any steps to dry on the vehicle



Step 1 mix as directed and you can apply to the whole vehicle (like your regular wash) give it 5-7 minutes dwell time or so. You can also do quarters or sections or panels if you like. Agitate every so often. Rinse after thoroughly



Step 2 you can work a panel at a time or a section at a time(or the whole car once youre good at it), do not let it sit on trim or glass - use a section of a grout sponge or microfiber/foam applicator to apply and agitate throughout that 5-7 minute dwell period. Keep this controlled and limited to the paint - keep off or remove quickly if it contacts glass, trim, rubber, any non paint. Rinse thoroughly. You may need a second or third round of 5-7 minutes if 1 session of step 2 didn't eliminate your contamination



- I would recommend that you clay with your aggressive clay during this step 2 because like you said the aggressive clay didnt do too much to the fallout - this way the clay can take care of the heaviest superficial stuff while the SIRR dissolves the remaining.



Step 3 - wash with your your pH balanced shampoo - I personally love 118SC - Super cleaning power, clean rinsing, good lubricity. But you can use anything pH neutral - DG901, GoldClass, OPT, whatever.



You may still need to regular clay just to get any remaining contamination after your decon wash. Just a heads up - check by hand and you should know and be good to go.
 
getcha- Heh heh, you took the words right out of my mouth :xyxthumbs



Only diffs are that I find the acidic steps OK on plastic trim/rubber, and well..I do prefer a different shampoo :D



drifts500- Note that the clay goes mighty fast when you use it in conjucntion with the decon. I'd be sure to have plenty on hand.
 
Yeh agreed. The alkaline neutralizers are OK on it - but I wouldn't want to trust it in the event it sorta starts to dry even a bit.
 
getcha said:
Yeh agreed. The alkaline neutralizers are OK on it - but I wouldn't want to trust it in the event it sorta starts to dry even a bit.
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Understood. I also like to keep that step off the glass, just in case the acid is a little more potent than expected. That's probably more important with the "ABC" stuff from AutoInt, but I still try to be a little careful.



I was more concerned about the Acid neutralizer/alkaline step damaging rubber and plastic, but it hasn't happened yet (famous last words :D ).
 
What do you mean when you say more important for the ABC kit from AutoInt?? Are you comparing the potency of each relative step(FK v. AI)?



And I am the same with the Alkaline step. I realize that there will be some contact but I personally like to keep Step 1 and Step 2 off limited to paint contact.
 
getcha said:
What do you mean when you say more important for the ABC kit from AutoInt?? Are you comparing the potency of each relative step(FK v. AI)?
Click to expand...



Yeah. I only think to mention is because Tory (at the old FK1) made *such* a big deal out of how the (different) acid in the AI "B" can be soooo risky to use (his opinion, definitely not mine, I wish it were *stronger*).



And I am the same with the Alkaline step. I realize that there will be some contact but I personally like to keep Step 1 and Step 2 off limited to paint contact.
Click to expand...



Yeah, unless there's some reason to let the stuff contact other surfaces. I've had the alkaline step work great all sorts of contamination on all sorts of surfaces, and I've used the acidic step to remove rust stains on plastics with good results.
 
I never was impressed with the AutoInt A and B(though the Detail wash is a nice shampoo). I couldn't believe what step A couldn't do.



Its funny you mention rust stains..



I had a car about a year ago I was referred to that had been sitting under a rusty pipe for good period of time and it had dripped on the hood and front bumper. The stains were so bad that it had gone through the clear and etched like I had/have not seen etching before. It was like canyons of etching under the halogens. I went through every progression for removal to no avail at all. In short the hood was repainted along with the bumper.



I wonder how effective it would have been on this car. Unfortunately the cars location was not conducive to a decon wash..
 
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