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Ken B

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I am having some suds issues that could use some help from the forum...



I use the 2 bucket method I learned here, with a Large (6*11) chenille wash mitt for the top of the car and a synthetic lambs wool for the bottom.



I started using Zymol Clear... not too good in the suds dept.

Wolfsburg was kind enough to send me some of Ron's pH 7.0 soap... (Thank you again!) which I used last week and got some decent suds, but once applied in the car they would go flat very quickly.



Last Saturday I washed the car again... used much more product (the water looks a little green) and the same thing happened.



Is this the way it is supposed to be or do I need to work on my washing technique and tools?
 
I had the same problem with Zymol. I think that many of their products are over hyped and overpriced. I started using Meguiars Gold Class Car Shampoo. It provides lots of suds and does a good job of cleaning, and does not leave a film after rinsing.
 
You might have hard water (hard elements dissolved in it such as calcium) that only a water softener can help you with. Otherwise, you can force suds by using a foaming soap despenser (see the new way to wash your car thread) Is it just the one soap or all your soap. When you shower does it take a lot of soap and shampoo?
 
I find the cheaper Wal-Mart Zymol Auto Wash to work <strong class='bbc'>better[/b] than the overpriced, purely marketing, Zymol Clear. Better suds, more slippery, I would recommend it. Plus, it doesn't streak on black!
 
If I use soap A and it suds and you use soap A and it doesn't sud, then the chemistry has changed. I guess the question is whether Zymol clear is supposed to sud or not. If people have used it and suds a lot then maybe it's the water and or the concentration. If you want something to sud then you have to pick a wash that suds a lot. (did this answer anything?)



[Edited by YoSteve.Com on 08-07-2001 at 01:41 PM]
 
I guess personally I think that cleaning with suds rather than foamless liquid is safer on paint, while this may be a misnomer (that suds provide more cleaning action, or better cleaning action or more efficient cleaning action). It does allow for you to put the product on evenly and have it "sit" on the paint and penetrate (especially on side panels)



For example on the hood of my car spreading a sudless soap may clean it but I would prefer a heaping sud ball of soap that I could let sit there for awhile to soak into the dirt. With the other option it would just bead up and the soap wouldn't stay on all parts of the hood to the same degree as suds would. Like I said the so called cleaning advantage of sudsing may be totally untrue but like you said either way would still clean (so at that point it would be preference)



ps good discussion :)
 
Some people like lots of foam and others like far less. Is one person doing more damage than the other. I'm not sure about that.

I have heard it said many times that the best soap to wash the car with is no soap at all...just use plain old water. Then you don't have the fear of stripping wax other. (I am not suggesting this as a strategy on a really dirty car)


BTW==>>Meguiar's Gold Class Shampoo, used at their recommended ratio, has to be the King of Bubbles!

I was covered with foam the fist time I used it.
star.gif
 
Tom, I asked you this earlier but I'm not sure on which thread. Was Seinfeld referring to automobiles when he says swirls. I'd imagine so, but I can't seem to remember that episode. Thanks again.
 
That's cool! For a while I thought it might have been one of those episdoes where Jerry hated to take his car to his car loving mechanic. The mechanic always criticized him when ever anything was not in perfect working condition. Real funny episodes.



Anyway, yeah the Meguiar's Gold Class does lather up or foam up quite a bit. Very good wash at an even better price. Thanks again.
 
I believe that most if not all soaps produce suds. People used soaps for centuries and came to associate cleaning power with suds.



AFAIK, most if not all detergents do not, themselves, produce suds. The suds are produced by suds producing chemicals that are added to the detergent. I have heard that the only reason this is done is that people associate suds with cleaning power and if they do not see suds, they think the product cannot be any good. The detergent manufacturors believe they must put suds-making additives in their products.
 
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >

<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by darbh [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>...that people associate suds with cleaning power and if they do not see suds, they think the product cannot be any good. [/b]</blockquote>
Its a matter of perception and may not really be an indicator as to whether the product is doing a "good" job.
 
I do have “hard� water at home (not a lot of suds in the shower).



I understand the argument that suds do not equal cleaning power (that PH 7.0 cleans VERY well)



I agree with YoSteve that suds are helpful to ensure even coverage (and the 2-year-old terrorist has a great time playing with it!)



Any more suggestions on how to make soap more “sudsy� with hard water?



Is this why some people in the forum mix two car washes?
 
exactly - the One Grand's Wash and Wax doesn't produce the thick, billowy, long-lasting suds that I like - so I mix it with either Meguiar's Gold Class or Mother's (which are pretty good on their own) - but my favorite car shampoo is Pinnacle's Bodywork - it just doesn't get any better - great suds (that last!), great smell, great results - and you only use 1/2 as much as the others
 
But I remember that episode of Seinfeld as well - that was soooo funny!!!! I loved that show, and will still catch a rerun now and then. Long live Kramer. :)
 
Karen, the Pinnacle shampoo is awesome. I absolutely love this stuff. It just changes the entire car washing thing for me.
 
A quality carwash shampoo, not a soap/detergent, is a "cold water sulfanated system", IE, does not require "hot water" nor artifical foaming agents.



It produces foam in either hot or cold water, it produces foam that lasts,(foam creates "lubricity" to reduce the opportunity to "mar or scratch the surface", it does not "break down easily" and yet without the need of harsh surfactants such as butylcellosolves, TSP or sodium cloride, cleans the surface with out attacking any surface coating applied. The foam produces is one of small, tight bubbles, which are what creates the lubricating attibutes.



A true cold water sulfanated system does not remove the surface coating that is active, but will remove "fractured portions of the coating",-IE, that which is no longer a part, is oxidized, evaporating, and remove soil/dirt from the surface.



A system such as this will not remove oil/tar deposits, for to do so would require it to be caustic or corossive and would allow it to disolve and/or remove waxes,etc.



This type of cleaning solution will leave a surface that is free of any "film" or "cloudiness" that is common with "soaps" that include sodium cloride (salt) in the formula. (salts being a corossive agents, but will, due to the corossive nature, remove soil/dirt)



The system does not require the addition of drying agents, silicones, or hydrocarbon components in order to provide a "gloss factor".



The resulting surface will exhibit a gloss factor free of artifical agents included to present a false shine.



IE, the pH 7 Surface Conditioner, and we are not the only ones to manufacturer this type of carwash shampoo.



But, since I am a business man, not going to tell you who the others are.



In short, you may wash your hair with our product, the base ingredients are the same as any brand name hair shampoo.



The difference being that there are higher percentages of actives in the formula, but does not include unnecessary components such as perfumes (fragrances) protein builders, etc. It is a "carwash shampoo" not a human beauty care product.
 
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