Porte Cable --------> Need your help

O

Ocean-Side M5

New member
I have purchased a Porter Cable Random orbital buffer. I'm using Meguiars Swirl remover on a 2001 Black BMW M5. The paint is in good condition when I started. After using swirl Remover #9 and white foam pad, the paint looked great and was very smooth. So I look closely and with a High Output 8' Light, I see tiny very fine swirls)()))((() that resemble the movement of the machine.:nixweiss



So I follow up with wiping down with freshly washed/dryed terry cloth and still notice fine 1/8 " swirlys. Then I buff( speed 3 or 4 ) with terry cloth pad over wool pad. Looks great from a distance but looking very closely still see swirlys.:mad:



oK I then use Meguiars # 2 in a 3 step process Polish only. I use the Grey soft buffing pad. Still Swirly's:confused: :confused: I try using machine lightly no help. Don't get me wrong. The car looks great, and the finish is like a mirror, but those tiny fine baby-hair scratches are going to kill me :scared



I think I need to look at getting a Makita 9227C. :bow please respond with your greatness :bow and I'd be in your debt.



SAm in da garage for 5 days now...
 
The Porter Cable is your best bet. If the paint was still good, I dont see the reason why you would use a swirl remover.
 
I might be new to car detailing, but my father runs a tool sales and repair shop, and as far as tool reliability goes, I like Porter Cable tools better than Makita tools... Personal preference really, but Porter Cable tools are built to be used. For anyone that is deciding between these two tools, I would go with the Porter Cable if you need something that you want to last. Both tools are good and will get the job done, but in my opinion, the Porter Cable comes out on top.
 
Maybe try some Meguiar’s DACP (Dual Action Cleaner Polish) with your grey (the CMA pad is tan) polishing pad. I have found that terry bonnets tend to load up and you have to change them out constantly.



I beat on a Black Chevy Tahoe today using the yellow cut pad and Meguiar’s Professional Compound Power Cleaner at a speed setting of 5 and I did not have any problems with fine swirling. This Tahoe was really scratched up and I was able to remove a great deal of the scratches and scuff marks which covered the sides and hood.
 
Start out with Meguiar's DACP or 3M's SMR and the CMA white pad. Start polishing with moderate pressure, speed up the PC and use less pressure as you go, until the polish starts to dry, than remove the residue with a good MF towel.



This should work on fine swirls. In my opinion #9 is not a very good product. The swirls you see may not be real swirl marks but the oil from #9 giving the affect of swirls. You may need to use a finer polish like P21S paintwork cleanser or Klasse AIO with the gray CMA pad for a fine finish.
 
I will go out on a limb but it sounds like you are not breaking the product down. The abrasive starts out coarse which removes the swirls and as you work the product the abrasive becomes finer and finer which elimates the hazing/light swirls caused by polishing. If you don't break the product down then fine swirls will be left. This is why the PC is so handy because trying to break the product down by hand is a real PIA. You may just need to work the product longer.





Good luck
 
Rightlane is correct - I'm guessing the products weren't broken down enough.



You have to really work the products in to get the best results. This means working in small sections (3'x2' max), and making continual, overlapping, back-and-forth/to-and-away passes over the section.



Start with moderate pressure and decent speed (around 3.5 - 4), then lighten the pressure and increase the speed as the product is drying and hazing. Continue to work it in until you've nearly buffed all of the residue clean w/the PC. Then grab a towel and buff any remaining residue away.



Also, I'd try a different order of application:



1) Dual Action Cleaner Polish on a Yellow foam pad

2) SMR #9 v2.0 on a yellow foam pad

3) P21S PCL on a white foam pad

4) Wax with black foam pad



If you're having troubles with the porter cable, you'll really have troubles with the Makita...I love rotary polishers, but you have to respect them and be pretty knowledgable in them before using.
 
I will try to work the product longer. Geeky and rightlane have given me insight to what might be my problem. Thanks lots and I will post how it came out.





Geeky on the part about p21 s how long should you work the 2'x3' area? Also im using p21s wax. i usually put on with foam applicator. do ou think i should be applying with PC and how long would you suggest?

:bounce :bounce:bow
 
suggestion on P21S: remember it is a wax and not a polish. Using your PC work the product until it just starts to shine through the residue. There is still residue left ( very slight haze) but in places the residue we be gone. Its time to stop and let product dwell while you do the next panel and then return to remove the product from the first panel By hand (with a mf is good). If I remember correctly you do not let P21S dry completely. This is a much faster process than polishing.
 
With the P21S PCL, I work it the same way that I do everything else - I really buff it in to the car, and let the buffing actually remove almost 90% of the product. I remove any remaining residue by hand.



As far as the P21S Wax goes, I simply wipe it on by hand, let it sit a few seconds, then start to buff it off by hand. I wouldn't suggest the PC for applying the P21S wax, as it's so easy to apply and remove by hand.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top