porsche cayenne, giving me a hard time

R

RsRtuning

Former Gourmet Chef
Some times, I will polish a car that comes in, let’s say for this time it's a black Porsche cayenne, like the one I did today.
Fairly scratched from automatic washes, a few deeper scratches from other things, generally looking a bit matte.

So as always start with least abrasive I went with the Menzerna PO 91L needed for that car and a foam, medium cut pad. Hooked on my rotary at 1200-1500rpms

So I work it slow and good, and the swirls and scratches come away good, but not good enough.the paint seems very hard, very stubborn.
There is more in there, really fine, so fine you’d think you could just blow them off, but you can only see them in certain angles, twisting my head to get that glimpse..
So i go down to light cut green propel pad with optimum polish, to no help.
even try to finish it off with a orbital, finishing pad and finishing from Menzerna

They are not from me or my machine, they are there as I start, and they are there after, with the 400 w light hitting right on them,i see them,but if I look at them under normal tube fluorescent lights, you cannot see them,maybe one or another,but it really takes time to find em then, and if I take the car outside into daylight, it looks like a mirror floating in water, its absolutely beautiful.

So I take the car in again to my 400 watt lights and I get pissed of, and I go at it again, and again, and again, and they just don’t want to come out,,aaaaarrrrgh, so where do you guys give up, or am I just doing it wrong, should I be able to get all of them out, or do we allow some marks to remain?
I can see them, the customer probably never will, unless hes got 400 w lights in his garage,,
 
RsRtuning said:
Some times, I will polish a car that comes in, let’s say for this time it's a black Porsche cayenne, like the one I did today.
Fairly scratched from automatic washes, a few deeper scratches from other things, generally looking a bit matte.

So as always start with least abrasive I went with the Menzerna PO 91L needed for that car and a foam, medium cut pad. Hooked on my rotary at 1200-1500rpms

So I work it slow and good, and the swirls and scratches come away good, but not good enough.the paint seems very hard, very stubborn.
There is more in there, really fine, so fine you’d think you could just blow them off, but you can only see them in certain angles, twisting my head to get that glimpse..
So i go down to light cut green propel pad with optimum polish, to no help.
even try to finish it off with a orbital, finishing pad and finishing from Menzerna

They are not from me or my machine, they are there as I start, and they are there after, with the 400 w light hitting right on them,i see them,but if I look at them under normal tube fluorescent lights, you cannot see them,maybe one or another,but it really takes time to find em then, and if I take the car outside into daylight, it looks like a mirror floating in water, its absolutely beautiful.

So I take the car in again to my 400 watt lights and I get pissed of, and I go at it again, and again, and again, and they just don’t want to come out,,aaaaarrrrgh, so where do you guys give up, or am I just doing it wrong, should I be able to get all of them out, or do we allow some marks to remain?
I can see them, the customer probably never will, unless hes got 400 w lights in his garage,,
Click to expand...
I haven't had this eperience. I do remember a thread where another detailer had this problem and i'm almost positive he used the menzerna power gloss and that it worked for him. Sorry i couldn't have offered more..
 
Honestly, some of the marking is naturally going to be in the base and perhaps in the metal itself. Sunlight is the test, and there are some things that will never come out w. 400watt lights.
Do a test if you want: get a panel from the junker, and do the same program, working it through until:
1. You get it perfect, or
2. You burn through.
 
Sunlight is the test.. Yes, but i have to both agree and dissagree there, because of the fact that doing a car in our shop under the 400 w lights we have in the roof 14 of them,they are the auto shop type, light up slowly, but give a incredible strong light, straight downand will show a lot more defects in the car, as compared to when we take it out into sunlight, when talking about scratches.

when customers bring their cars, and park outside, the car can many times look a lot bettter, then what it does, when we take it in under the lights.
and customers many times are surprised, by how much more swirls and scratches it has, when brought inside.

allthough holograms, will show up better in sunlight.

allthough the hand held 400 w lamp that we move along the sides of a car to do last checks before sealant or wax is applied, will bring up any holograms or patches.

Now it may be that i did not dare work hard enough on the cayenne, and i still have to finnish it tomorrow, but i have a few ideas, ill try.
but it is absolutely more difficult to get scratches out, than in other vehicles, i would place it along with audi A8, and some mercedeses, that also can be more difficult.

Now maybe i should have hit it with a tougher compound, but, didnt think it was all that bad..
these fine scratces i see, look a lot like the kind that driving it against bushes or trees, would have put on it. and that would on any other car come out without hassle, but on this girl, it just is not.
 
I remember reading a post recently either here or on Autopia where a detailer was having a problem with a black Cayenne. He managed to get the paint 100% corrected, but I don't recall how. I would do a search on both sites to find this thread.
 
Mikeyc said:
I remember reading a post recently either here or on Autopia where a detailer was having a problem with a black Cayenne. He managed to get the paint 100% corrected, but I don't recall how. I would do a search on both sites to find this thread.
Click to expand...

The clear was actually softer than originally believed. So the compound / rotary combo was taking the swirls out but creating micro marring.

It was finally cleared up with a cyclo, polish pads and 3M Perfect-It III Machine Glaze (part no. 05937). He then followed with 1Z MP with a PC and finishing pad.
 
Hit it with some Menzerna Finishing Glaze, throw your sealant on and call it a day. As you said, it looks beautiful in the sun to you....so the owner will also think so. I commend your hard work and research though....but sometime you just gotta take it easy on yourself:) Good Luck..
 
yes newer paints are softer then they were years ago,damm waterborne paint,but anyways good steps but use any type of swil remover that has really fine polish in it and it will be good to go. 3m perfect glaze can do wanders especially for black cars,gives it a good pop too .
 
Ill get myself some of that 3m glace today and give it a go.
I use quiet a few 3m products, dont know why i havent gotten around to trying that one yet.
I appreciate all answers from all of you.
thank you
RoB
 
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