Popped my Makita cherry...

rydawg said:
Great topic!



Rick is right. It won't always happen on every paint, but certain paints will be affected. Just make sure you IPA after ONR if you are going to polish. Megs Last Touch, I would not use to clay even if you are going to polish, unless it's just a quickie detail.



To go to the extreme of doing an IPA after every polishing step depends on the correction being done and the customers budget along with their needs.



When it comes to full (true) correction, I always do a straight 100% (70 or 91% IPA)wipedown after washing and every polishing/compounding step. I often see compounds also fill to a good degree and can interfere with the next polishing step.



A 50/50 wipedown will not remove all oils from certain polishes and will not give true accurate results. Straight IPA will NOT remove certain silicones, especially if they are embedded. After talking with lots of chemical pros (from here to Germany) on this matter, we have all come to a conclusion that certain embedded silicones can not be removed from the paint and they just have to evaporate out on their own.



Sometimes you can just get filling even with a compound on it's own on brand new fresh wetsanded paint. Rick and I have experienced this numerous times and after straight 91% IPA wipedowns and we were just shocked at how even a compound could fill so much.



I have been doing this for 20 years too;)
Click to expand...



Good post Rydawg... I have been pondering that question for a long time.



Off the top of your head, any products lines that ARE completely removed by an IPA wipedown?



Menzerna?

Optimum?

etc...
 
All true polish residues are removed and that's exactly what you want. It's the abrasives that break down ultra-fine while jeweling the surface is what gives the shine. There are some polishes with nutrient oils and those will just come off and you will see a dull hazy finish and they do not need to be wiped down.



A true polish will correct with it's abrasives and carrier lubes (as lubricant) with the selected pads, speed and pressure, while leaving a true high gloss finish after an IPA wipedown. This way, you will not have anything ever come back and you will have a clean and clear true polished surface with just bare paint. An LSP will bond tighter and stronger and even last longer.



Ryan
 
rydawg said:
Great topic!



Rick is right. It won't always happen on every paint, but certain paints will be affected. Just make sure you IPA after ONR if you are going to polish. Megs Last Touch, I would not use to clay even if you are going to polish, unless it's just a quickie detail.



To go to the extreme of doing an IPA after every polishing step depends on the correction being done and the customers budget along with their needs.



When it comes to full (true) correction, I always do a straight 100% (70 or 91% IPA)wipedown after washing and every polishing/compounding step. I often see compounds also fill to a good degree and can interfere with the next polishing step.



A 50/50 wipedown will not remove all oils from certain polishes and will not give true accurate results. Straight IPA will NOT remove certain silicones, especially if they are embedded. After talking with lots of chemical pros (from here to Germany) on this matter, we have all come to a conclusion that certain embedded silicones can not be removed from the paint and they just have to evaporate out on their own.



Sometimes you can just get filling even with a compound on it's own on brand new fresh wetsanded paint. Rick and I have experienced this numerous times and after straight 91% IPA wipedowns and we were just shocked at how even a compound could fill so much.



I have been doing this for 20 years too;)
Click to expand...



Thanks for the info rydawg! So what would you suggest using for clay lube then? I have both ONR and LT, but I like using LT since it works very well and is very cost effective.



Thanks,

Rasky
 
Wow, so much insight in the thread. Glad I started this one, definitely learned a lot more than before thats for sure! :)
 
RickRack said:
Congrats on the new rotary!



Looks much better!! Great job for your first time...







Since you wanted to know some tips/warnings that you need to be aware about...



~ONR and Last Touch are filled with polymers & silicones and can really interfere with the polishing process.



~It is very important to strip any previous waxes, silicones, etc. from the paint surface before polishing, as it can save lots of polishing time.



~If the previous layer of wax (or whatever) is not fully removed, it creates a barrier and causes the polisher to “hydroplane� above the paint surface, making it very difficult for any defects to be removed. Instead of abrading and leveling the paint, you are just hovering above the surface, without doing much correction.



Hope this helps,

~Rick
Click to expand...



Just to clear up something....yes ONR does have polymers but it does not contain silicone. If so there would be streaking issues when used on glass or as a glass cleaner.



ONR can be used on a panel and then that panel can be painted with no issues.



Hope that helps,

Anthony
 
The question of silicone, with special reference to the citation from Jason Rose (cited earlier in this thread), has just arisen over at Meguiar's Online. Folks may find it of interest, especially Jason's contribution to the discussion.
 
The Makita you have is a rotary? How long did it take u to polish one side? By the way those are some long azz toes :shocked.
 
rydawg said:
I just use water mainly, but if I need lubricity i will add a little soap to the mix of water.
Click to expand...



Do you mind being a little more specific as far as the type of soap/dilution ratio you use? I'm interested in this as I was originally planning on using ONR as my clay lube as well.
 
I am a little confused, so what exactly do you use to prep the paint so that the wax is not affecting the polishing?



Btw, I am a newbie at this, I am trying to learn all the information before i go on purchasing my products. Please be inform that i am not familiar with any if not all, acronym.



- T
 
itskrees said:
Do you mind being a little more specific as far as the type of soap/dilution ratio you use? I'm interested in this as I was originally planning on using ONR as my clay lube as well.
Click to expand...



I'll just use very little car wash soap or Dawn for lubricity. All you need is a little splash mixed in with water in a bucket.
 
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