Popped my Makita cherry...

E

eyezack87

New member
I decided I could not wait for my 3M backing plate and red/black 75mm backing plate to come from Polished Bliss so I decided to have a go with my Makita backing plate (6.5in exactly!) on a Jag bootlid I got from my friendly body shop in my city. It was the perfect template to have a go since it had some pretty deep and interesting stuff in it.



Here are the results so far. What do you think? This was roughly 1.5 hours of learning/polishing because I decided to do the finishing polish at 600rpm and had Menz FPII and black last for over 10 minutes :tumblewee



Process:

-Wash with ONR

-Clay with Riccardo + Last Touch as lube

-Tape up into 3 sections (for now)

-6.5in White LC pad with Menzerna FPII @ 600-1000rpm (wanted to see what it could do and also learn to control it)

-6.5in Orange LC pad with Menzerna SIP @ 1200-1300rpm

-6.5in White LC pad with Menzerna FPII @ 1000-1100rpm

-6.5in Black LC pad with Menzerna FPII @ 600rpm (I tried jeweling lol )

-Wipe down with TAW then 50/50 alcohol and water (wanted to make sure)



Each step had a range of 1-2 hits with very little drama after I got used to it on the first hit. White was sooo much easier to control than Orange. Orange is quite controlling to say the least :doh



Riccardo + HOT water (I find it works much better this way)

DSCN5561.jpg




Riccardo after 3 swipes :o (did I mention I got this from the Body Shop?)

DSCN5562.jpg




Finish was great to play with after claying :getdown

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Not Corrected:

DSCN5584.jpg




Corrected:

DSCN5582.jpg




Not Corrected:

DSCN5586.jpg




Corrected:

DSCN5585.jpg


Those lines are either holograms, leftover polish residue or they were caused by the flash. Don't know yet as the trunk is dirty again from the rain last night. If they were holograms, I probably goofed on the jeweling somehow :nervous:



Let me know what you think and some tips/warnings that I need to be aware about. I can practice as much as I want on this. If it runs out of clear, I go back to that body shop and ask them for a new one :spot
 
was that trunk resprayed with a clear mixed with paint? that clay took it right up. looks good though. I need to make the jump to high speed one day too.
 
Dude..........you have huge toes! Sorry with my humor.



Keep having fun with the rotary, and pratice then pratice some more.



Yes I would say from the photo I see some slight grams. Chase them with a fine polish since they look light, this will also help with the gloss.



Cheers,

GREG
 
Greg Nichols said:
Dude..........you have huge toes! Sorry with my humor.



Keep having fun with the rotary, and pratice then pratice some more.



Yes I would say from the photo I see some slight grams. Chase them with a fine polish since they look light, this will also help with the gloss.



Cheers,

GREG
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You should see the size of my girlfriends toes:nervous:
 
dublifecrisis said:
was that trunk resprayed with a clear mixed with paint? that clay took it right up. looks good though. I need to make the jump to high speed one day too.
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It was sitting near a paint booth in my local body shop. I suspect some of the overspray hit it (as they replaced this one with the same trunk for the customer)



Thanks :wavey

Greg Nichols said:
Dude..........you have huge toes! Sorry with my humor.



Keep having fun with the rotary, and pratice then pratice some more.



Yes I would say from the photo I see some slight grams. Chase them with a fine polish since they look light, this will also help with the gloss.



Cheers,

GREG
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Lol, I just realized I was standing funny to make my toes do that. I'll make sure not to get my toes in the pics later on :nervous:



Practice makes perfect but I'm limited to the stock backing plate until my 3M stuff comes in from the UK :spot

Optimum Auto said:
You should see the size of my girlfriends toes:nervous:
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Haha, you guys are weird :rolleyes:
 
Congrats on the new rotary!



Looks much better!! Great job for your first time...







Since you wanted to know some tips/warnings that you need to be aware about...



~ONR and Last Touch are filled with polymers & silicones and can really interfere with the polishing process.



~It is very important to strip any previous waxes, silicones, etc. from the paint surface before polishing, as it can save lots of polishing time.



~If the previous layer of wax (or whatever) is not fully removed, it creates a barrier and causes the polisher to “hydroplane� above the paint surface, making it very difficult for any defects to be removed. Instead of abrading and leveling the paint, you are just hovering above the surface, without doing much correction.



Hope this helps,

~Rick
 
^^Wow, thanks for the tip! I had forgotten about the polymers and stuff in ONR and LT. I guess I should 50/50 it every time I start to polish then. Thanks Rick!
 
I couldn't wash with anything else but ONR at the time so if I take that route, I'll have to do a 50/50 water alcohol wipedown from now on :)
 
RickRack said:
Congrats on the new rotary!



Looks much better!! Great job for your first time...







Since you wanted to know some tips/warnings that you need to be aware about...



~ONR and Last Touch are filled with polymers & silicones and can really interfere with the polishing process.



~It is very important to strip any previous waxes, silicones, etc. from the paint surface before polishing, as it can save lots of polishing time.



~If the previous layer of wax (or whatever) is not fully removed, it creates a barrier and causes the polisher to “hydroplane� above the paint surface, making it very difficult for any defects to be removed. Instead of abrading and leveling the paint, you are just hovering above the surface, without doing much correction.

Hope this helps,

~Rick
Click to expand...



Do you have evidence to support this?



Not trying to argue or start a flame session, just sharing my veiw on this, but that just seems like an unnecessary step IMO. In my 18+ years of detailing I've never had a problem with previous waxes/silicones interfering with my paint corrections.



If your polish/compound has the ability to remove defects, is a micro thin layer of wax/silicone really going to affect it?





Rasky
 
RaskyR1 said:
Do you have evidence to support this?



Not trying to argue or start a flame session, just sharing my veiw on this, but that just seems like an unnecessary step IMO. In my 18+ years of detailing I've never had a problem with previous waxes/silicones interfering with my paint corrections.



If your polish/compound has the ability to remove defects, is a micro thin layer of wax/silicone really going to affect it?





Rasky
Click to expand...





Hey Rasky,



I am shocked that you have never experienced this in your 18+ years of detailing! Just curious, do you do alcohol wipedowns to inspect your work after polishing?



As far as evidence, all I can say is that myself and MANY other top pro's have found this to be true as well.



A micro thin layer of wax/silicone will most definitely affect a polish/compound's ability to remove defects. I have experienced this many, many, many times first hand.



I could type 2 pages trying to explain... Please read the first post in the link provided below. Jason Rose from Meguiar's explains in detail how waxes/silicones can interfere when polishing...



http://www.autopia.org/forum/machin...spective-paint-defect-return-interesting.html



~Rick
 
RickRack said:
Hey Rasky,



I am shocked that you have never experienced this in your 18+ years of detailing! Just curious, do you do alcohol wipedowns to inspect your work after polishing?



As far as evidence, all I can say is that myself and MANY other top pro's have found this to be true as well.



A micro thin layer of wax/silicone will most definitely affect a polish/compound's ability to remove defects. I have experienced this many, many, many times first hand.



I could type 2 pages trying to explain... Please read the first post in the link provided below. Jason Rose from Meguiar's explains in detail how waxes/silicones can interfere when polishing...



http://www.autopia.org/forum/machin...spective-paint-defect-return-interesting.html



~Rick
Click to expand...





Hey Rick,



Very interesting read indeed, thanks for posting it. This is actually confilcting information from what I have been seeing on MOL.



I do use IPA to check my test panel, but once a process has been dialed in I do not wipe the whole car down with IPA. It's possible polishes and compounds I've used over the years have been affected by remaining wax/silicone like you are saying, but I've always been able to achieve the level of correction I wanted, therefore it's hard to say I was having problems. I've never done a side by side test like that, but I'm sure I will now. :)



I've been reading about people doing IPA wipe downs after claying over the last 6 months or so. Prior to that, I had never heard of someone doing such a thing. I'm only looking for answers to why, as it is an added step and product to use, but I'm always looking for new tips and tricks, I just like knowing why something is recommended.



I started a thread a while back on MOL, and a similar thread just came up too.



IPA question??? - Car Care Forums: Meguiar's Online



Using Dish Washing Soap... - Car Care Forums: Meguiar's Online





Cheers,

Rasky
 
eyezack87 said:
3M BP, red/black M14 3" BP, and all the green, yellow, blue 3M pad sizes came in from PB! Can't wait to do it again :D
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Nice! :woot2:



How long did it take you to get the stuff after you ordered it? I have the 3M BP and pads on their way too.
 
RaskyR1 said:
Nice! :woot2:



How long did it take you to get the stuff after you ordered it? I have the 3M BP and pads on their way too.
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Today is full of good news! My PC is back from the sick bay too (I missed that little *******) :chuckle:. Also my Proper Auto Care order just shipped out too :wow:. Can't wait for the rest of my stuff to come in :getdown



I ordered on Jan 25 so roughly a week and a half from the UK to SoCal :dance
 
RaskyR1 said:
Do you have evidence to support this?



Not trying to argue or start a flame session, just sharing my veiw on this, but that just seems like an unnecessary step IMO. In my 18+ years of detailing I've never had a problem with previous waxes/silicones interfering with my paint corrections.



If your polish/compound has the ability to remove defects, is a micro thin layer of wax/silicone really going to affect it?





Rasky
Click to expand...

Great topic!



Rick is right. It won't always happen on every paint, but certain paints will be affected. Just make sure you IPA after ONR if you are going to polish. Megs Last Touch, I would not use to clay even if you are going to polish, unless it's just a quickie detail.



To go to the extreme of doing an IPA after every polishing step depends on the correction being done and the customers budget along with their needs.



When it comes to full (true) correction, I always do a straight 100% (70 or 91% IPA)wipedown after washing and every polishing/compounding step. I often see compounds also fill to a good degree and can interfere with the next polishing step.



A 50/50 wipedown will not remove all oils from certain polishes and will not give true accurate results. Straight IPA will NOT remove certain silicones, especially if they are embedded. After talking with lots of chemical pros (from here to Germany) on this matter, we have all come to a conclusion that certain embedded silicones can not be removed from the paint and they just have to evaporate out on their own.



Sometimes you can just get filling even with a compound on it's own on brand new fresh wetsanded paint. Rick and I have experienced this numerous times and after straight 91% IPA wipedowns and we were just shocked at how even a compound could fill so much.



I have been doing this for 20 years too;)
 
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