Poorboy's Spray + Rinse Wheel Cleaner containing HFl?

West6MT said:
Why do you have to dilute the Spray and Rinse wheel cleaner? It does not say you have to do that on the back of the bottle. It says for certain types of wheels it should be diluted and spot tested etc. I dont dilute it when I spray it on my wheels. Am I doing damage maybe? They look fine.
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I spoke to Steve about this and he said the one of the reason to dilute is to extended the product out....the other is that most cars don't need it at full strength....I do 50/50 because most all the cars that I work on are not that bad and I yet to find a car that really required full strength.....if needed I have that ready....second weekly use of any harsh cleaner on a rim over time is going to harm the finish IMO....chrome maybe the exception here...I had some BBS rims on a car that the centers where anodized....I started to notice after five years that they where loosing there finish....I used all kinds of cleaners on these most all where very aggressive....degreasers, wheel cleaners, etc.....I know that it eat threw the finish in some areas....these where also protected rims as well...that's my take
 
Maybe I'm off, but I avoid abrasive cleaners by:
1. Getting it clean.
2. Applying Wheel Sealant
3. Washing with water & soap

This way i only need to spray chemicals on my alum wheels every 3 months or so. I do use a cut APC to clean the tires.
 
1:1 for me too.
I think Eagle One Wheel clean(Orange bottle one) its more fatal than PB S+R Wheel Cleaner. Its just my 2cents yo.
 
First this product was originally intended for professional use only. Then seeing that most of the people on the detailing boards would probably use some caution we released it to the general community. This and most wheel cleaners should be used as needed not as a weekly cleaner. They are strong products. As some have stated before, if a wheel is cleaned, polished, and sealed, then it should take little effort during a normal wash to clean them. If you are a Professional or a Weekend detailer , you may run into customers cars that were not well maintained and may need a strong product like Spray & Rinse to clean them, especially if you are on the clock trying to make money.

For those of you who just can't bend over and scrub a wheel (like me :) ) yes a dilution of 1:1 or up to 3 or 4 :1 will do the job without having to squat or bend for wheel cleaning during a wash.
 
I was a regular user of ArmorAll wheel cleaner until I noticed that it started to eat away the paint on my hubs. I would only leave it on for like less than 30sec.
 
Few years ago I sprayed my wheels and a strong wind came up by the time I grabed the hoose it etched my window. The products can kick butt and you best be carefull and read the directions.
 
For weekly maintenance try S&W on the wheel liberally. It gets just about everything off sealed wheels with no scrubbing.
 
Sherman8r44 said:
For weekly maintenance try S&W on the wheel liberally. It gets just about everything off sealed wheels with no scrubbing.
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Why would you need to liberally spray a wheel cleaner on sealed wheels? You shouldn't need any wheel cleaner, and certainly not a generous amount.
 
White95Max said:
Why would you need to liberally spray a wheel cleaner on sealed wheels? You shouldn't need any wheel cleaner, and certainly not a generous amount.
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Spray and Wipe, not Spray and rinse.
 
well this was bugging me so i plucked out my phydrion insta check 0-13 ph strips.

I will post pics.

I used pepsi for the acid, water for the neutral, and S&R for what should be the base.

for reference HF acid should be hydrofluoric acid HF 2.1 on the ph scale. anything lower than that would not be HF.

First pic is of the tester

the 2nd pic is of all three liquids. left to right. pepsi, water, snr
tester
original.jpg

all three
original.jpg

Pepsi around a ph of 5
original.jpg

water there is a slight green tinge indicating 7 ph, water takes a while longer to turn the strip.
original.jpg

SNR around a ph of 3.5-4
original.jpg
 
G35stilez said:
The striking similarities between ABF and HFl

http://www.carwash.com/article.asp?IndexID=6631269
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bren wrx said:
cliff notes to all this information?
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-ABF is perceived as 20x safer than HFl
-ABF forms when ammonium hydroxide reacts with HFl
-ABF becomes Hfl when mixed with water or liquid cleaning solutions
- "Hydrogen fluoride and ammonium bifluoride. are created for industrial use only,"
-US CPSC has documented dozens of injuries and deaths from misuse of ABF
-" Whether fluoride ions enter body tissues as the result of inhalation or skin contact, they cause deep, progressive burning that may quickly lead to multi-organ failure and death. Long-term exposure to even minimal amounts of ABF can lead to brittle bones, weight loss, anemia, and calcified ligaments."
-ABF is harmful to lungs, skin, eyes, and kidneys
-The effects of ABF and HFl take time to set in
-Flouride (which makes them dangerous) in ABF is higher
-HF odor is more distinctive
-" If a wash owner chooses to use ABF or HF, experts say the wash should be equipped with a safety shower and eye-irrigation system. If employees will handle these products, they should be provided with gloves, goggles and aprons. If HF or ABF will be used in mist form, which is not recommended, wash employees should also wear masks or respirators."
-Lethal doses of ABF and HF are estimated between one teaspoon and one ounce.
 
Sean,

Wow, very impressive chemical information! Understanding the chemicals used to make the products we use is taking our obsession to yet another level! :D
 
Grouse said:
well this was bugging me so i plucked out my phydrion insta check 0-13 ph strips.

I will post pics.

I used pepsi for the acid, water for the neutral, and S&R for what should be the base.

for reference HF acid should be hydrofluoric acid HF 2.1 on the ph scale. anything lower than that would not be HF.

First pic is of the tester

the 2nd pic is of all three liquids. left to right. pepsi, water, snr
tester
all three
Pepsi around a ph of 5
water there is a slight green tinge indicating 7 ph, water takes a while longer to turn the strip.
SNR around a ph of 3.5-4
Click to expand...

I find it amusing that this is the first and only post on DC from Grouse. Not to mention no profile. Funny that this person chose to resurrect an old tread. Looks more like someone has found a new screen name to post under.
 
uflraptor said:
I find it amusing that this is the first and only post on DC from Grouse. Not to mention no profile. Funny that this person chose to resurrect an old tread. Looks more like someone has found a new screen name to post under.
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That was a hell of a way to welcome a new member. There's no disputing that kind of information, pH strips tell no lies.

Sorry to kick a dead horse with my 2 cents but I think this thread is borderline ridiculous. Somebody asked a simple question (granted I don't know his history here but he seems to have a ton of posts and was apologetic in the end, not to mention he actually pulled up some good info), got attacked (for what I don't know...could have just pulled up the damn MSDS) and then a point was proven. Shouldn't this be over and done with?

Wonder if anybody is going to call me a troll...but is it always like this around here?
 
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