Poor Boy's SSR's

HeavyChevyBoy

New member
Hi Steve,



I just followed your advice. See post.



Re: Poor Boy's Ssr's



quote:

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Originally posted by ricky

Well, I guess majority wins. SSR2.5, SSR1 will be in the menu.

Who is Steve? Can anyone send me a link so I can get in touch with him to ask for advice?



Thanks again,



Ricky

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I'm Steve and you can ask me questions in the new forum "ask the mfg" (great idea again David)



Steve







Well, I guess I got very interested from your product because I saw the work of Scottwax. I've been using Klasse twins, Meg DACP, #9, Premium Paint Cleaner, High tech yellow wax, P21s, NXT wax, and now I want to try Poor Boy. Like I mentioned earlier on my post that most of the cars I worked on are older, parked outside and somewhat neglected. So, I was debating if the SSR2.5 will be enough to take out blemishes, scratches, dried up bird doo-doo (that clay can't take out)? Does the SSR2.5 usually need to be followed by SSR1? If the car is somewhat new can I go directly using SSR1? I have heard of the EX-P is this a wax? Also, what is Natty's? Would you recommend getting all 4 products to compliment the combination?



Thanks in advance,



Ricky
 
I'm sure Steve will chime in, but while I am here...



SSR 2.5 is a very versatile product that is tough, yet diminishes quickly. When used with a cutting pad, I recommend a follow up with SSR 1. When used with a polishing pad, it's not absolutely necessary.



SSR 1 is great for a new car that just needs a slight polish.



EX-P is a sealant and Natty's is a paste wax.



SSR 2.5, SSR 1, EX-P, and Natty's is a great looking combo that can be used on every color finish.



These are just my thoughts and experiences :wavey
 
Hi Zane,



Is that what you used on your car? Looks like eye candy. Nice!

I guess this is what the other guys recommended on my earlier post. No need for the SSR3.



Thank You,



Ricky
 
Thanks very much Steve and Zane,



The products are sold. I will put in my order this coming paycheck.

SSR2 (yellow pad or white pad on my PC), SSR1 (white pad), EX-P, Natty's.



Bye,



Ricky
 
Poorboy said:
Zane ...I don't think I could have answered it any better myself..thanks:xyxthumbs



yes that combo will work for any color and give awesome results...if you want another option, substitute Polish w/ Carnauba for the SSR1 ..this gives even a better look for a dark color and can help hide minor blemishes that are too deep in the paint to safely remove.



Steve
hello, my first detail and thinking of poorboys, so after ssr2.5 i could skip ssr1 and go with ex ? i thought you usually have to use ssr1 for marring after ssr2.5 ? my vehicle is a gm 01, black... thanks todd
 
Poorboy said:
depending on the pads you use and how well you use them will make the difference in needing to use SSR1 or not.

some people can and others find the need to step down.

Since your vehicle is Black it can easily show more fine scratches or marring than a lighter color and you may find the need for the step down...GM dark colors may also need a few passes with the SSR2.5 with a polishing pad to achieve desired results.:)



2.5 with polish pad ? i have light to moderate cobwebbing/swirls and was thinking of 2.5 with ORANGE and ssr1 with polish pad than ex than nattys once a month..i have the propel pads from eceldetail.com .. also wanted to ask about cure times, i saw in another thread today about somebody getting streaking with ex-p becaUSE IT DIDNT STAY DRY FOR 3 DAYS ? JUST WONDERING if there is issues with the ex as well,(not bonding properly unless its dry for 3 days) if so i was thinking about skipping ex and or ex-p and just going with nattys after ssr1...thanks todd

ps. if i call poorboys, will you anwser questions over the phone instead ??
 
Just out of curiosity, is GM clear harder in your opinion, and thats why it takes more passes with 2.5, or is there some other reason? I'm just wondering, because as soon as the snow stops I'm planning on doing a GM with the SSR line (and for some reason 2.5 smells like the toothpaste my dentist uses, lol) and was wondering if I should be expecting some extra work. Thanks in advance
 
Cool thanks Steve. I really do like the smell of the SSR lines, makes them different from other polishes. EX also has an oddly kind of citruisy smell to it, dont know exactly how to describe it, but I like it. Pretty cool.
 
Hey steve,



Here are my steps for my dark green accord with spiderwebbing, light surface scratches, and light swirls...

(I will be using a chicago rotary with 7.5" LC pads)



1. Wash

2. Clay

3. SSR 1 with polishing pad, or SSR 1 with cutting pad, or SSR2.5 with polishing pad, or SSR2.5 with cutting pad

4. SSR 1 with polishing pad (if necessary, but most likely since it's a dark color)

5. EX or EX-P (which would you recommend???)

6. Natty's (not absolutely necessary correct???)



I would like to get the most protection since this is a daily driver that is never garaged.



How does it look? Anything I left out or missed???



Thanks buddy:xyxthumbs
 
thanks for the reply-and i have to give you a :up for replying honestly to another thread even if the person decided on a competitors product
 
Poorboy said:
They are solvent based and VOC compliant. I do not know of any water based polishes as they would probably tend to dry up faster than you could effectively work them, especially with a rotary.
Hello,

POORBOYS question,

My question is, Which one of your products is a step above Megs DACP? I currently have SSR3, but i also have a gallon of the DACP which is im my opinion very mild. I want something that is a tad bit more abrasive in my arsenal.



Thanks,

Sellncars
 
If SSR2.5 can remove most defects and polish out to a nice gloss, where does SSR2 fit in?



I have a bottle each of 2.5, 2 and 1, and was wondering when to use each one. :)
 
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