Polishing Side Intake Vents

P

primitivo

New member
Does someone make a micro DA to get into side intakes? Or the rain gutters on the roof?

I can't tell how to get all parts of the intake to be consistent with the areas that the DA can reach.

Does someone make a ~1" ball ended drill attachment?

Seems to me that a micro DA with a spherical pad located far from the motor who's shaft can spin and pulse in and out would provide DA polishing for very small areas. There must be a tool from some industry like this, no?

Uh... Based on my rather dirty description, the adult industry may have something actually! But I don't want to be all serious looking in my garage using a tool that says "lady pleaser" in hot pink down the side of it.

Ahem, ANYWAY...

I see some small polishers like the small Rupes but the motor is in line with the pad center so it seems good for small widths but not for crevasses. It seems like the biggest pad and backing plate is the best small area polisher because of the overhang of the pad, but that still has its limits. And I bang the edge of the backing plate into the paint eventually.

Hand polishing - the area is too small to rub in more than one direction so it's just back and forth.

What are you guys doing?
 
Get some webril wipes and use your polish by hand. Webril wipes are a non-woven cotton wipe made for cleaning printing press plates. Because they're non-woven they don't put different pressures on the surface being worked and because they're cotton, the abrasives are held in place better than with microfiber. They make polishing the tight spots on paint much easier and faster and they make polishing metal such as spoked wheels if not pleasant at least not mind killing awful. Of course, wipe the residue off with microfiber.

Robert
 
Heh heh, once you've spent hours correcting some inaccessible area you might have a new appreciation for the importance of not marring the paint in the first place ;)

(Fingernail scratches behind Audi door handles could eat an entire day back before the new-tech compounds became available.)
 
I have had great results using Meguiars M105 and a soft, add a little moisture, cotton cloth and my fingers..

This totally gets all fingernail marks and scratches out from behind door cups, and leaves a nice glossy, smooth finish every time..

Just use a little product, wet it with something ( I use foam pad conditioner), rub the area until the product starts to dry ( dont let it dry and dust, please...), wipe off and see how you did..

The idea for my needs is to get into those places with something that works fast and finishes great - the first time...

No worries about trying to fit pads in there and then what if the pad edge or backing plate or machine hits the paintwork, etc... ( Spacers on a Rotary fill in that blank up to a point)..

M105 has been around a long time, and got a bad rap from the get-go because it dried quickly, but I figured out how to overcome that and its been a great all around correction and finish down compound for me, and it totally rocks on plastic tail light lenses too...

You just have to experiment and work with the product..

Meguiars 101 which came later does not work as well using it as I have said above, but does work pretty well behind a foam pad and a Rotary..

I had much fun with a Ferrari that had these huge amount of strakes going down the sides of the body, and other vehicles, so I have really had to figure out what works best for me...

Good luck with your project !
Dan F
 
Stokdgs said:
I have had great results using Meguiars M105...Meguiars 101 which came later does not work as well using it as I have said above..
Click to expand...

I always wish M105 had a *LOT* more cut when doing stuff like this, and I bought M101 (which I haven't used yet) in hopes that it would be an upgrade. Could you explain how/why it doesn't work as well as M105 when used in that (standard, IMO) by-hand way?
 
Well, I dont know what you are trying to take out or how you are doing it..

Most fingernail scratches for example, are never that deep to facilitate bringing out anything more than a good thick short nap cotton towel and enough damp M105 to work it, keeping it working by not lettting dry out, and gradually less pressure so it can polish down nicely.. I never have to go back with anything else to improve on the clarity and gloss..

I have never had to use anything with more cut than this.. I suppose Menzerna may have a compound with more cut but I have never needed anything like that - lucky for me, eh ? :)

Regarding what I said about Meguiars M101 Foam-Cut Compound, as you may recall, it was designed originally for the European Market, for European paintwork, and many of us way back then had to get it through for example, Belgium, and then another place, and eventually to the Shop... It cost a lot more because of that alone..

It was designed for Foam Use, and believe it even says that on the bottle... The cut of M101 is at 12 (extra heavy cut), the same as M105...

What I got from using it was a much user-friendly M105-type product that worked easier with foam pads, but I didnt really see it doing anything that much better than I had already figured out with M105 - (Needs moisture, to keep it working and not stopping too early)..

It seems to have other things in it that work pretty well with foam on a Rotary, doesnt get dry quickly, but I think it really takes longer than 105 to get to the same place ..

So, I ended up with 2 quarts of M101, and only used a little bit of 1 and none of the other...

Im thinking that because I used so much 3M really gritty compounds on new paint, etc., in previous careers before, I have always preferred this type and have come to understand how they work best for my needs...

Good luck with your research !
Dan F
 
Stokdgs- Yeah, I too grew up on the rocks-in-a-bottle stuff from 3M! Still have some Extra-Cut around here somewhere.

I've been using M105 since it came out (I still prefer my stockpiled v1.0 over the current version), and I always found it easy to use, just wish it had more cut and finished better (looks OK until I turn out the lights and get out the SunGun, no problem IMO as it *is* a compound).

I used the fingernail scratches thing as an example, something that can take many, many passes by hand (and yeah cotton terry is good aggressive medium, so are cut-up foam cutting pads or even wool). That kind of work takes me *so* long to do serious work by hand that I usually just wetsand for the first step. Still, it does go a lot faster with M105 than it did with my previous choices so maybe I'm just never satisfied! Hard, IME, to find really, *REALLY* aggressive stuff that works OK on b/c by hand.

I got the M101 after others here told me to expect faster correction and better finishing compared to M105, just wondered about your differing experience. Guess I'll find out for certain the next time I have to do some significant correction, which I hope isn't for a good long time ;)
 
Accumulator -

In a Shop situation, I need to be able to get the level of correction and finish down as good and quickly as possible, using a Rotary, and by hand where a Rotary wont work, even with spacers and smallest pads..

Since I started from the introduction of Meguiars 105 and 205 (as well as all the Menzerna line, and a little of the newer 3M products), I just worked with M105 a long time, did research, and finally cracked the code for my needs.. :)

I liked M101, it is much easier to use on a Rotary for sure, but seemed to take longer..

Perhaps it can also be said that if one has challenges with M105, then for sure M101 would have to be the great improvement it is in ease of use for sure..

But I dont have those challenges with M105.. :)

I remember 3M from back in the 70's even, having this orange colored product that was as you said, literally rocks in a bottle.. :) It was always the first product we used on newly painted acrylic lacquer and enamels.. And it worked ! :)
Dan F
 
Ronkh- Heh heh, this discussion *almost* has me looking forward to trying the M101, almost... but I still won't mind if I never do significant correction again ;) (Yeah, yeah, but a guy can dream!)

Stokdgs- Yeah, lots of diffs between a shop situation and somebody like me. And I've pretty much retired my rotaries.

Heh heh, yeah#2...I too first started with this stuff back in the '70s and I remember that orange colored compound, also remember a pink finishing polish, even remember the smell of the stuff, but can't for the life of me remember who made it (not 3M, ProWax, or Meguiar's).

Funny how different people view products differently, for some reason I just *clicked* with M105, thought it was just soooo easy to use. Guess that quick work/flash time is just right up my alley.
 
Accumulator --

" Funny how different people view products differently, for some reason I just *clicked* with M105, thought it was just soooo easy to use. Guess that quick work/flash time is just right up my alley. "

And I loved how it worked, hated that it wanted to end it too soon, so figured out how to keep it just moist enough to keep working, and finish out really nice.. :)

Believe I remember reading something Kevin Brown once wrote years ago, about using M105 for polishing glass and chrome, and who knows what else...

What did our Parents always say to us ?? Practice, Practice, Practice.. :) :) :)

I certainly remember what that orange stuff smelled like but cant remember the pink stuff... Have to rack my olden brain a bit now...

It will probably come to me at 0400hrs, I will wake up, remember that I remembered it, fall back asleep, and forget what I remembered when the clock goes off... :)
Dan F
 
Stokdgs- Heh heh, yeah...that "practice" thing. What is the rule, something like "it takes 10,000 hours worth of doing it right to become an expert at something".

Heh heh#2, I have *zero* intention of doing enough significant correction (for the rest of my life) to "master" any new stuff so for me the learning curves have to be dead-vertical from here on out :D Unless some shop employee (grrr...my Chevy dealer) or some twit in a parking lot messes something up I might *never* compound a whole panel again!

And yeah, Kevin and I have discussed stuff like M105, always interesting talking with him. On chrome, I lean towards M205 if I'm going that route, got some stuff on an old Jag so nice the owner was all "better than from the plating shop!".

That old pink finishing polish, and it wasn't just a glaze as it cut better than most SwirlMarkRemovers, was sold in white bottles with black lettering/graphics. Oh man that's gonna bug me forever if I don't think of it!
 
I am going to suggest to all of youto try my new GOTO combo. Using the cotton cloths mentioned (which I’ll try) I have used cotton baby diaper and MF and even just have a couple orange B&S pads I have cut down for hand use. You really should try 3D HD ADAPT. It is my #1 reach for. Then I follow with speed. If your areas are really bad then use CUT, ADAPT, and top with Speed.

All you need to do is start watching You Tube to see how good the stuff is. They also have a brand new body shop line of compound for the rotary. You can watch the shoot out at this year’s SEMA and see how it’s just kicked everyone’s butt! (Even Meguiars had a hard time meeting the finish in the time it took HD to achieve.

JUST A DISCLAIMER. I AM NOT AFFILATED WITH 3D HD WHAT SO EVER. (But I sure wouldn’t mind being so!)

Also If you look up Detailing ART on FB he took a GG3, made a modification attachment for it and custom made a 2 inch pad. (you can also order 1 and 2 inch BP and foam but I can not remember where he told me)
 
beamerstrumpet- Heh heh, when you say "if it's really bad, then [start with] CUT..." I can't help but think that you're working on much softer clear than I am! No, no, I'm not being a [jerk], I'm just sayin'...

Here I wish that my M105 were more aggressive and my CUT is so mild that I think of it as an "aggressive polish" rather than a "compound". Goes to show how different situations are gonna call for different solutions, huh?
 
Accumulator said:
beamerstrumpet- Heh heh, when you say "if it's really bad, then [start with] CUT..." I can't help but think that you're working on much softer clear than I am! No, no, I'm not being a [jerk], I'm just sayin'...

Here I wish that my M105 were more aggressive and my CUT is so mild that I think of it as an "aggressive polish" rather than a "compound". Goes to show how different situations are gonna call for different solutions, huh?
Click to expand...

No offence,, IMO HD Cut is more aggressive than 105, I was saying that ADAPT is where I start and if its not enough balls I go to Cut. The stuff really is great.
 
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