Polishing by hand for now, what product do you recommend?

MattZ28

MattZ28

New member
Looks like the mod bug is biting me again, and my money is going towards a nitrous kit instead of a PC. I've used 1Z PP by hand, and it doesn't get my swirls out completely. I also have what looks like minor pitting on the hood only, and some water stains as well. I'm looking to pick up a product from a local NAPA or Terry's Auto Supply (a paint/detailing supply store, mostly professional products, so 3M finesse-it's line and meguiar's body shop line is available there) tomorrow and get to work on my paint.



Can someone please recommend a product that will help get out my imperfections as best as possible by hand? Feel free to give me some tips, suggestions and methods to use!



Thanks!

-Matt
 
I'd start with Meguiars #80 Speed Glaze or #83 DACP. You do have to work them for a while to get the abrasives to break down.
 
Alright, thanks Scott! I don't know who's advice could be better than yours :D



If I get DACP, I'm assuming after that I should go over the car with 3M SMR, then 50/50 alcohol/water before I Zaino?
 
MPPC or COLOR X from meguiars....these have chemical cleaners in em meant for use by hand.....i think colorx is stronger....
 
no, scratch x is meant for hand use....

DACP is meant for machine use....

COLORX is now the strongest paint cleaner megs has, followed by MPPC for hand use.....work it in w terry cloth for more aggressive cleaning action...
 
Scottwax - you state work for "a while." Can you expand on this? Is it a determined amount of time, or does the product "indicate" when to stop? How much pressure do I apply to the pad and does it vary with time? Thanks for your help, as always.
 
MattZ28-If the 1Z PP isn't getting it, I dunno if switching to DACP/#80 will make much difference as they're really in the same category as the PP...I'd try 1Z's Ultra, and that's as the only product of its type (i.e., a fairly strong abrasive) that *I* would use by hand on basecoat/clear. Anything else is gonna need a rotary to really break it down properly, and using such stuff by hand is a hit-or-miss proposition.



How long to work DACP? Longer than you think ;) Gotta work it until it basically disappears/turns to powder. Takes a long time by PC, and an eternity by hand. Generally, you'd want to lighten your pressure as you go- moderate/strong at first, then milder.
 
Ahhh I can't take it.....I just can't decide what to do. I really want my car to go faster, but I don't want swirls and scratches! I don't think I'll be able to get those pits and water marks out by hand....I may just get the damn PC and get it over with :(
 
Take out a loan! haha, just joking. I use DACP and SFP to great success by hand. It seems to work good when you go in every which way possible, and then just work it for 3-4 minutes.
 
MattZ28- Ya know, the problems you're describing might not come out even with a PC. Something to consider if you have to choose beteen the PC and nitrous.



BUT...if you get nitrous, are you gonna beef up the other things that will be affected by the sudden hit of extra hp? Plenty of people trash their cars by adding that particular power booster...For instance, you don't have an automatic, do you? I'd think long and hard about nitrous....



[Edit]- Just checked out your link (and saw the 4L60E in your signature line)...Heh heh, I'd put a convertor and beefed up tranny in before going to the nitrous. I play with '94-96 LT1/4L60E b-bodies and know a little about this stuff...
 
I don't know, the 4l60E tranny isn't going to handle a nitrous shot with our a shift kit. Transgo has a good one you should check out. I know it fits the regals tranny.
 
I've looked into it already....my rear was set up by the best shop in the area and I have no gear whine. I'll be getting a TCI super street fighter 3200 stall at the end of the year. My tranny has been regularly serviced throughout its life (I have receipts from previous owners) and shifts perfect, so I think I'll be fine. RPM's and increased line pressure are the main things that kill the 4L60E. A stage 2 TransGo will be going in with the TCI. Either way, there's no way I'm spraying off the line with a 7.5" 10-bolt rear, I don't care how good the gears were set up, LOL, I'll spray after the 60', and it's going to be a 125 shot in case you were wondering. My friend Javier is cutting 1.6 sec short times in a 2800-Vigilante stalled, cammed, 97 Z28 on the stock rear :doh

We're all waiting for it to grenade :D



Back to the detailing part, those little pits I was talking about are only on my hood, I'm guessing from the minerals in the water....they're VERY tiny, and there's not many of them, you have to look very very closely, maybe I'm just being anal.



I washed the car about an hour ago with Z7, and started claying already...taking a break now. I'm going to try my best with 1Z PP, then I might go over the car with 3M SMR, then rubbing alcohol before I Zaino it.



Thanks everyone for the advice, and sorry for the long post!

-Matt
 
mattZ28- No, I don't know LT1Dave. Checked out the link, though.



OK, sounds like you're gonna be sensible about the nitrous. And your f-body is lighter than my b-bodies, which will help a lot. But those 4L60Es are easy to lunch.



Back to the detailing- If I were you, I wouldn't follow the PP with the SMR. The SMR can be a tricky product and the PP oughta get things nice enough if you work it long enough. Just use the alcohol to remove the PP's waxes/fillers so you can check your progress and get the Zaino to stick. Or, heh heh, just top the PP with a wax or sealant instead of using Zaino.



From the sound of it, you're not gonna fix the pits anyhow, PC or not.
 
I did my hood so far with PP, the pits are rounded off and it looks alot better, and the water stains are almost gone. It looks deeper and feels really smooth. I'm going to take my time doing the rest of the car today, and I'll Zaino tomorrow. I already tried going the wax route, but I think I'm addicted to Zaino or something :D



About the tranny...my car DOES have 84,000 miles, I mean I don't dog it or anything, but I have money saved in the bank for stuff like this, and won't touch it (not even for a PC or nitrous :P), so I'm prepared if the tranny does start slipping, or if my opticrap takes a dump (yup, still on the original :scared )
 
MattZ28 said:
I did my hood so far with PP, the pits are rounded off and it looks alot better, and the water stains are almost gone. It looks deeper and feels really smooth. I'm going to take my time doing the rest of the car today, and I'll Zaino tomorrow...

About the tranny...my car DOES have 84,000 miles, I mean I don't dog it or anything, but I have money saved in the bank for stuff like this, and won't touch it (not even for a PC or nitrous :P), so I'm prepared if the tranny does start slipping, or if my opticrap takes a dump (yup, still on the original :scared )
Click to expand...



Glad to hear the PP is working, but don't count your chickens before you try the alcohol, it might uncover some stuff....



Heh heh, an 84K 4L60E in a young guy's Z ...good thing you have some money saved up! J/K And those optis can last a long time if you're lucky (and don't let any coolant get in 'em).
 
Accumulator said:
Glad to hear the PP is working, but don't count your chickens before you try the alcohol, it might uncover some stuff....



Heh heh, an 84K 4L60E in a young guy's Z ...good thing you have some money saved up! J/K And those optis can last a long time if you're lucky (and don't let any coolant get in 'em).
Click to expand...



lol I hear ya....good thing I have a vented opti.
 
majik1 said:
no, scratch x is meant for hand use....

DACP is meant for machine use....

COLORX is now the strongest paint cleaner megs has, followed by MPPC for hand use.....work it in w terry cloth for more aggressive cleaning action...
Click to expand...



#83 DACP, #82 Swirl Free Polish and #80 Speed Glaze can all be use by hand. I think I proved to Mike Phillips you can successfully work DACP by hand at the Autopia/Meguiars meet and besides, it says on the bottle of DACP for rotary, DA or hand use. :)
 
Well guys, it seems like it worked out pretty good with the 1Z PP. I went over some spots that still had swirls with 3M SMR and that worked out good. After that, 50/50 alcohol/water rub down, then today I washed it just to make sure all of the oils were off. My 3rd coat of Z5 is on, I'll take it off in the morning and show you guys some pics. Now I just need to decide whether I want to run nitrous and put more wear on my motor or leave it alone......:nixweiss :D
 
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