Polishing before AIO/SG???

I

Ice9

New member
I am trying to determine what to use for some minor scratch and swirl mark removal prior to using AIO and SG. I will be doing all by hand (for now).



I would like to find something locally and that means it is probably 3M or Meguiars.



This is what I am thinking:



wash

clay

3M P-II Rubbing Compound

????? - unknown for "glaze" step

AIO

SG



I am not sure I should use something like 3M SMR as a glaze because it contains oils/filler and may not be effective when followed by AIO.



Do I need to use a "glaze" after polishing? Can I skip the step? Should I use something without fillers/oils?



Thanks in advance,



Max
 
Um.. not trying to be a smart @@S, but the "G" in SG stands for glaze. ;)





You don't need anything between the polish and the AIO, assuming you are happy with the finish at the end of the polish step.
 
Yeah, I know SG is a "Glaze", but I am referring to the "Glaze" step in between Polish and Seal/Wax.



According to tutorials on CMA and Autopia, after using the rubbing compound/polish, something like 3M SMR or Meguiars SMR is needed to remove hazing. I am not sure if I should use these products for that.



Should I use a filler-type product between polishing and AIO?



TIA,

Max
 
AIO is All In One - cleaner and sealant. It'll clean off whatever is on the surface, so don't bother with the glaze if you are going to use AIO. SMR will be fine. AIO will remove everything to the clearcoat.
 
Just so that I am clear on this, AIO will remove the oils/filler of SMR. Will SMR still remove the haze provided by the 1st Polish (P-II)?



Max
 
Thanks.



I am going to purchase some 3M Perfect-it II Rubbing Compound and some 3M SMR after work today. Does anyone object? Anyone have any other suggestions?



One quick question, is 3M Perfect-it III Finishing Glaze appliable by hand? Is it is similar to SMR?



Thanks,

Max
 
Just one suggestion on the SMR. Scottwax has suggested using cotton terry towels to give the SMR more "bite" when applying by hand. You might want to try that, but make sure you get high quality cotton towels, or you might end up getting more swirls when you are done.
 
Ice9- In *MY* experience, you'll need something in between the FCRC and a "normal" SMR. I have NOT found AIO to be able to remove FCRC hazing, you need an abrasive with a little "bite" for that. I'd use PI-III (got mine HERE ). It's a SMR with no fillers. You don't want/need fillers in your application because of the cleaning power of the AIO. I did a small area with the PI-III by hand, applying with a MF (did most of the car by PC), and it seemed to work fine. Same old same old, work it until it's about gone. And it worked VERY well when used before AIO and SG.
 
I think FCRC followed by SMR should be fine if you can't get PI-III - people used to do it that way all the time. Don't worry about having or not having fillers because AIO may remove them and Klasse SG is your filler product right there anyway! :) It's very modest though, so try not to rely on this ability. Good luck!
 
what *hazing* is everyone talking about? im new at doing "quality" detailing but i did a....wash/AIO/Souveran on my red vette and it turned out great, is there any additional steps im missing or that would improve the shine? Thanks- Ja
 
CuriousJa- The hazing (in this case) is from the Rubbing Compound. Think of it like using sandpaper on a scratched piece of wood. e.g., Your car has scratches that are VERY bad, like the "deep gouge" scratches from 80 grit sandpaper ("80 grit scratches"). To get them out you use the RC, which is like 240 grit sandpaper would be on wood. This removes the BAD scratches, replacing them with MILDER scratches (now the scratches in our wood are 240 grit, INTENTIONALLY done, by the 240 grit sandpaper). Better, but you still have scratches.



THESE are the "hazing". You still need to use a finer abrasive to get them out.



A SMR will get out these finer scratches, leaving its OWN scratches, which will be FAR too fine to see, at least with the naked eye, like using 320/400 grit sandpaper on wood to remove the 240 grit scratches.



Apologies to any woodworkers, it's been years...



So are you missing anything? If you have any swirls or scratches you should remove them with an abrasive before using your AIO.
 
thanks alot for clearing that up for me :-), as far as my paint goes it looks great, its in almost perfect condition. the only thing is that it has VERY small tiny little scratches in it that can only be seen from certain angles in bright sunlight, you cant even see them unless youre really trying. im asuming theyre swirl marks left by using sh!!ty towels or pads in the past. im a little aprehensive about using an abrasive though because it removes a layer of clearcoat/paint and i really do not want to weaken it or shorten its lifespan? Thanks- Ja
 
If the scratches are as superficial as you make them sound, I wouldn't worry about removing too much paint. Just be careful in the future. ;)
 
Accumulator said:
Ice9- In *MY* experience, you'll need something in between the FCRC and a "normal" SMR. I have NOT found AIO to be able to remove FCRC hazing, you need an abrasive with a little "bite" for that. I'd use PI-III (got mine HERE ). It's a SMR with no fillers. You don't want/need fillers in your application because of the cleaning power of the AIO. I did a small area with the PI-III by hand, applying with a MF (did most of the car by PC), and it seemed to work fine. Same old same old, work it until it's about gone. And it worked VERY well when used before AIO and SG.
Click to expand...



I wonder if its the way I do things but I've NEVER had any hazing after I've used an abrasive compound.



I've used DACP and Diamond Cut quite alot and never had a problem.

Maybe 3M stuff does cause hazing as it doesnt have diminishing abrasives ... but if so then I'll stick with Megs.



I don't wanna compound any more than I have to!
 
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