Poli Seal?

I

imported_sal3291

New member
I was reading a descriotion of Poli Seal and it says you can use this to clean up he residue from Opt Polish? Would you polish the entire car then go over it with Poli Seal as your final polish/wax? If you can use this for Opt Polish can yhou use this for other polishes or compounds like M105?

Also does anyone here top Poli Seal? If so what do you use?
 
sal329 said:
I was reading a descriotion of Poli Seal and it says you can use this to clean up he residue from Opt Polish? Would you polish the entire car then go over it with Poli Seal as your final polish/wax?
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Um...no, that's not where they are going with that. Optimum has espoused removing residue with the next step to save time. For instance, if you have just used Optimum Polish, instead of buffing the residue off, and then applying, say, Optimum Car Wax, you would just spray the OCW on top of the OP residue and buff off...saving one buffing step. I would think using Poli-Seal on top of OP would be a little redundant, but I don't have Poli-Seal.
 
Why would Poli Seal on top of OP be redundant? Say if you have to use an Oranage pad and OP to remove defects and it removes the deeper defects leaving faint marring behind, you follow up wth Poli Seal to remove the marring. Instead of OP with a finishing pad. This would save 2 steps? 1 step of buffing off OP and another step of applying an LSP bc PS is a polish and sealant in one. Am I way off base here?
 
You can use Poli-Seal it after say using OPII via orange pad. But I would top Poli-Seal with Opti-Seal as poli-seal by itself provides very little durability.





OPII via Orange

OPS via white/black

OS

OCW



Great looking combo there.
 
sal329 said:
Why would Poli Seal on top of OP be redundant? Say if you have to use an Oranage pad and OP to remove defects and it removes the deeper defects leaving faint marring behind, you follow up wth Poli Seal to remove the marring. Instead of OP with a finishing pad. This would save 2 steps? 1 step of buffing off OP and another step of applying an LSP bc PS is a polish and sealant in one. Am I way off base here?
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No, not off base if you are doing a multi-step like that.
 
I'm curious about the durability as well. Just got a 32oz jug of the stuff because I heard it was very durable for an AIO. Haven't had a chance to use it yet, but I would guess it is still better than the OTC stuff I have been using.
 
In my experience, the durability is actually pretty decent. I usually top it with something but on my wifes car once I did not top it and got more than a couple months of solid beading.

I'ver never left a polish residue and then followed with poli-seal. I have however left the residue (what little there might be) of poli seal, then went straight to a spray wax like DGAW or OCW.

Poli-seal IMO is a must have product. It's a fantastic one step product that has very little cut, but a good cleaner and a good sealant. I've even added 4 oz of opt polish and about 10-12 squirts of opti-seal which resulted in poli-seal with a bit more cut and a beefed up sealant. It was awesome.
 
I love the products, I dont see durability though.



My car which is kept outside looks shiny, but it doesnt bead a nicely after 2 weeks. As Poli-Seal is so easy to apply, I just apply more every two weeks.







This was the season of Optimum for me. Hopefully in October I can speak intelligently on a Zaino / Optimum comparison.
 
prix03gt said:
I'm curious about the durability as well. Just got a 32oz jug of the stuff because I heard it was very durable for an AIO. Haven't had a chance to use it yet, but I would guess it is still better than the OTC stuff I have been using.
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I get a few months beading with PS alone, but it isn't a product that beads all that well anyway-loose beads rather than tight carnauba beads. I usually use Opti-Seal over it.



I mostly use it as a final polish or on paint already in good condition.
 
Lol Dave I was waiting for you to chime in. I know I go around in circles with this. I either need to use the PS I have or get rid of it so it stops tempting me.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Um...no, that's not where they are going with that. Optimum has espoused removing residue with the next step to save time. For instance, if you have just used Optimum Polish, instead of buffing the residue off, and then applying, say, Optimum Car Wax, you would just spray the OCW on top of the OP residue and buff off...saving one buffing step. I would think using Poli-Seal on top of OP would be a little redundant, but I don't have Poli-Seal.
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Poli-Seal can be used directly on the top of the Optimum polish residue and it will absorb it = no cleanup.



Poli-Seal itself won't leave anything behind = no cleanup.



Durability alone is around 1-3 months, but of course you can top it with OOS = no cleanup.



Sal, I'm using OPS as a final polish quite often. It's a carnauba/synthetic blend so it is unlikely that you are gonna encounter bonding issues.
 
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