Poli Seal vs. M80

[Envious Eric]

it can and does quite well...on some cars, those who want only a two step, but close to perfect conditions, I use menzerna IP with a rotary and LC foamed wool pad, then poli-seal with a PC and a white or orange pad...results are pretty darn good!

 

[wannafbody]

if poli-seal can correct wool pad marks I wonder about the aggressiveness of the abrasives when using by hand

 

[ej8tunerman]

I am a FIRM believer in Poliseal and thought no way could it remove swirls from using a compound and wool pad. I tried it the other day when I was going over the whole car with poliseal..My carbon fiber trunk obviously is gel coat, and a bit of it for awhile now has looked sorta cloudy due to oxidation I suppose, so I took a little bit of OC and a LC foamed wool pad @ 1500 on the rotary. That left some deep swirls so i went over it with XMT 2 with a light cutting pad on the PC and it got rid of alot of it except in a few places where I wanted to test poli seal close to the edges...Poliseal on a light cutting pad removed ANY swirling left from the Foamed wool/OC. The last time I fulled polished the entire car was with XMT2 on an orange light cutting pad in December and there was still a slight trace of mircomarring here and there on my soft Honda paint. This time I used the Poliseal/Orange LC pad combo on the whole car and the car has never looked as good as it has since I've been an autopian for the past year. Poliseal with a LC light cutting pad is probably my favorite combo of any thing I use due to the fact that its so east to use and produces awesome results in a short amount of time.

 

[wannafbody]

ok- poli-seal with an orange pad is probably removing the swirls from the action of the pad more than the cutting of poli-seal. If you used poli-seal with a softer pad it probably wouldn't correct as well. Orange pads are quite versatile with the PC.

 

[imported_fishbonezken]

I don't believe it fills at all... But I'm surprised that Poli-Seal can fix wool buffing marks...

i was surprised as well, VERY surprised...at that time I was assuming that it is a heavy filler, guess I made the wrong assumption.



So conclusion is, it won't fill a single bit. Can anybody else testify to this?

thanks in advance

 

[SpoiledMan]

i was surprised as well, VERY surprised...at that time I was assuming that it is a heavy filler, guess I made the wrong assumption.



So conclusion is, it won't fill a single bit. Can anybody else testify to this?

thanks in advance

I saw just the opposite. Let's just say that I had bad luck using it with the rotary. All looked good when done but the next day was trail city. Glad it was one of my cars.



The other side of that is I had much better luck using it with the DA and orange 5" pads. Worked it in on a Navigator and removed it with a spray of OCW. Came out nice and wet while removing toweling marks.

 

[RCBuddha]

Would you guys say that Poli Seal is about equal in abrasiveness to Meguiars #80?

No, not in my experience with both products. Poli Seal had little to no correction, even after trying it with different pads/machines.

Poli Seal removed more swirls, removed them faster, and finished down better. I usually will buff an 2x2 area for about 2 minutes with Meguiars #80 with pretty good results. Using the same tpye of pad with poliseal I was removing more defects (about 98%) with only about 45 seconds of buffing time.

Doesn't sound like it was removing defects...

Guys, guys guys, there is one fundamental user mistake when using Poli-Seal!



Everyone is expecting a visible film and residue. No, OPS is not supposed to work like that.



It is basically traceless, so it won't leave residue; in fact it works almost invisibly. When it disappears, it doesn't dry up, flash off; it is still there, you just have to trust in the product. You may use a bit more of it to ensure a good buffing film between the paint and your pad - but don't expect residue.



If you have residue, you are definitely using too much. And no, it doesn't have fillers.

Sorry Bence, but I just have a hard time believing that you can keep buffing once it flashes. I got all sorts of holograms after using Poli Seal, and it was only amplified when I put OS over it. I even tried buffing it after it flashes (as Optimum fans had advised) and it felt like I was dry buffing.

 

[imported_Bence]

Strange, because I never got holograms. Using 2-3 pea sized drops won't give you a visible buffing film (even at the start), but the product is there and does its job. I think when you got holograms maybe you were using too much product. IME starting with 6-8 drops is enough to prime a pad, then 2-3 drops for a 13 cm pad and 4-5 for a 16-18 cm pad is good to go. I'm using a bit more than Optimum Polish.



I wipe the panels down with IPA, but I haven't tried Prepsol after OPS.

 

[RCBuddha]

Strange, because I never got holograms. Using 2-3 pea sized drops won't give you a visible buffing film (even at the start), but the product is there and does its job. I think when you got holograms maybe you were using too much product. IME starting with 6-8 drops is enough to prime a pad, then 2-3 drops for a 13 cm pad and 4-5 for a 16-18 cm pad is good to go. I'm using a bit more than Optimum Polish.



I wipe the panels down with IPA, but I haven't tried Prepsol after OPS.

Bence,



I tried using various amounts (2 drops, 3 drops, etc) but still could not get the "hang" of the product. IMO, there are other products that produce a better surface for LSP's to bond to and are less finicky. Poli Seal just wasn't for me....