Poli Seal vs. M80

C

CleanGSR

New member
Would you guys say that Poli Seal is about equal in abbrasiveness to Meguiars #80?



I received a sample bottle of poliseal last fall with a purchase of ONR and just tried it out today. I did a test area on my back bumper side by side against M80 (my usual polish) and here's what happened.



Poli Seal removed more swirls, removed them faster, and finished down better. I usually will buff an 2x2 area for about 2 minutes with Meguiars #80 with pretty good results. Using the same tpye of pad with poliseal I was removing more defects (about 98%) with only about 45 seconds of buffing time.



This is crazy because this could knock the time by more than half going from 2 minutes per area to 45 seconds, with better results. Keep in mind, my car is in really good shape and only has a few swirls (black acura paint) from washing (2 bucket) over the past few months. Still, I didn't think it would remove defects better than 80.



Thoughts?
 
poliseal leaves behind protection in the form of carnauba i believe... there could be some filling properties.



also just wondering what pad were u using for the poliseal? I find it to dry up too fast with anything greater than a finishing pad.
 
Well, I did a little searching before making my post and found that Optimum claims that there are no fillers. That was my initial thoughts and what led me to search. Hopefully someone can confirm whether there are any fillers in poliseal.



I'm using a propel green pad. It's the one step up from their final finishing pad. It's what I usually use to polish. You're right, the poliseal is drying up during polishing much faster than the M80, but when I wipe off the residue, all the defects are gone. If this is just how good poliseal is, then I'm impressed tons.



My entire car didn't need polished, but it's so quick that I'm doing it anyway just to clean it up some. Only going to take me about 1 1/2 hours by the time I'm done (already washed it last night). I still plan to top with M21 even though I wouldn't have to with the Poliseal. I like the extra protection and look from M21.
 
Hi there CleanGSR, nice to hear the results on PS.



May I ask you how much product did you put on the pad. Becoz I'm having some trouble using it correctly. I put about 2 peas on the polishing pad but it clears up & dry up too fast. I tried adding more product but it kinda become clear while I'm applying it. Some sort like all soak up in the pad and doesn't lay any polish down on the paint...? TQ.
 
I'm putting a couple of nickel size dots until the pad gets a little saturated, then about 1 nickel size dot per area. I spread at 3 and then kick it to 6 for a couple of passes. It does clear out really quick but polishes really nice for the short time before it clears out. The only problem I can see is if I was using it as a one step.......would I actually get much protection from the wax portion of PS when I'm polishing it almost clear???



Also the amount of panel that I'm getting per nickel size is pretty good size. I did my entire car with the 4 ounce sample bottle and have a little bit left still. It spreads really nice, just dries up/clears really fast on Speed 6.
 
Guys, guys guys, there is one fundamental user mistake when using Poli-Seal!



Everyone is expecting a visible film and residue. No, OPS is not supposed to work like that.



It is basically traceless, so it won't leave residue; in fact it works almost invisibly. When it disappears, it doesn't dry up, flash off; it is still there, you just have to trust in the product. You may use a bit more of it to ensure a good buffing film between the paint and your pad - but don't expect residue.



If you have residue, you are definitely using too much. And no, it doesn't have fillers.



Theoretically, the simplified Optimum route is the following: you polish with Optimum Polish and leave the residue on the surface, then you go over the residue directly with Poli-Seal as it can absorb and pick up the residue of OP. And because OPS works invisibly, with almost nothing to remove, it provides a good base for the OOS. You apply the OOS and leave.



Of course we all remove not only the residue of a final polish, but everything, so it is a theoretical routine, but it can be performed like that.
 
I agree with Bence, even though OPS clears out quick, it still is working. When you are close to over working it, you will start to feel some drag as the pad moves over the paint. It takes a little practice to get the feel of when it is fully broken down.



I was amazed at the level of correction I got on that black Excursion (the one with the trailer) and the red Durango I just posted, really did a great job on the light swirls.
 
oh sorry my bad... i thought i read somewhere that Poli-Seal contained fillers.



So using a LC White polishing pad, i should continue to polish even after OPS disappears?

I was thinking of giving it a try again this weekend with a LC Black pad.
 
Yes. It will flash off very rapidly; basically as you move your machine the OPS pulls a very faint trace behind the machine but it will disappear almost instantly. But it is still there and working so you can continue.
 
I love OPS, and yes, I was having the same issue, like thinking I wasn't using enough. I used it with an Edge gree pad and the PC. The correction it made was huge, a lot better than PwC. I really like this product!
 
Oh now I see why it is clears up.... I thought it was a problem with my PS or my technique. Okay now I know how's the product's characteristic are. Thank u guys.



Now I know how to use it. TQ.
 
Scottwax or others who have extensively used both products: do you think PS is better at correction compared to the M80? I always thought that the correction ability of PS was one step below that of M80, a dedicated polish.
 
I know that PS is half the aggressiveness of OP. So I think PS should be less aggressive than M80. PS is a cleaner wax with a better correction capability. I feel a dedicated polish should perform better in the circumstances.



Altho it's also depend on the paint's hardness and the condition of the swirls. But I might be wrong. As I haven't really have much luck with PS. As I didn't know how to use it by machine ealier. I only use by hand applying it like a wax. TQ.
 
SilverSeven said:
Altho it's also depend on the paint's hardness and the condition of the swirls.
Click to expand...



That is true with any product. Sometimes product A works great on swirls but on harder paints, I have use product B.



But I might be wrong. As I haven't really have much luck with PS. As I didn't know how to use it by machine ealier. I only use by hand applying it like a wax. TQ.
Click to expand...



No product with defect removal characteristics is going to work if you apply it like a wax. Polishes have to be worked in with some effort to get any results.
 
That is true with any product. Sometimes product A works great on swirls but on harder paints, I have use product B.
Click to expand...



I agree with you Scottwax.



No product with defect removal characteristics is going to work if you apply it like a wax. Polishes have to be worked in with some effort to get any results.
Click to expand...



Yes, the problem was I didn't understand how to use it. Like I said earlier it disapear while I was buffing it with machine. And I didn't know about PS characheristic. So I didn't wanna be bufffing dry....?



Since now you have thought me how to use it. I will give it another try. Thank you Scottwax. :dance
 
sorry for the bump,

will poli-seal HIDE/FILL anything at all?



I used Poli-Seal(ROB) over a section with heavy wool buffing marks, and they disappeared, within a very short time. So I'm not sure if filled it heavily, because the finish after Poli-Seal was really great!.



My question is, will Poli-Seal fill? or does not fill at all



Thanks in advance
 
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