PO85RD or PO106FA after PO203?
- Thread starter imported_Jared
- Start date
Hi. I use the rotary.
As for color, I work on a variety of colors, from black to white, to silver and red. I figured that PO106FA is probably more versatile. But PO85RD is probably more popular for its "jeweling" abilities on a darker colored paints.
I could always buy both PO106FA and PO85RD, but for now I want to get one to test out first.
As for color, I work on a variety of colors, from black to white, to silver and red. I figured that PO106FA is probably more versatile. But PO85RD is probably more popular for its "jeweling" abilities on a darker colored paints.
I could always buy both PO106FA and PO85RD, but for now I want to get one to test out first.
Dave1
New member
106FA will clean up what's left over from PO203 and still look good......
If you want to gloss that look a little further, then go 85RD with a no cut pad.....
Use a gray pad to jewel with 85rd. If that doesn't remove the haze move up to a white and then finish down with a gray or blue. I've used both 85rd and 87mc for jeweling, but find Ultrafina with a blue Ultrafina pad to work better.
Street Dreams
New member
I think people get a little to caught up with the finishing steps rather than the middle or one step parts of paint correction which are the most important steps.
In the correction steps your goal is basically to :correct: the defects, yes? Okay once they are corrected what do you do?
Do you stop polishing or just polish long enough to get everything fully broken down?
I think people generally do not use the one step or middle step stages of correction to their full capability. 203 is a very versatile product and you can use it with various foams, even wool as Rick and Ryan began with the tuf-buf pads.
Try working 203 for as long as you can, even after all the defects are corrected at higher speed, reduce speed on whatever machine your using and lighten up pressure. Essentially work it like a finishing polish, same slower passes, same slower speeds.
While 203 wont leave the same gloss or leveled finish as 85rd or even FA you can get it to finish down very very well.
The better you finish down your one or middle step polishes the more you can do with your finishing polishes...AND THE LESS AGGRESSIVE FINISHING POLISH YOU NEED TO USE!
If you finish down 203 really well with just a hint of hazing hologram you can skip 106FA and go for 85rd which is what you really want for finishing!
In the correction steps your goal is basically to :correct: the defects, yes? Okay once they are corrected what do you do?
Do you stop polishing or just polish long enough to get everything fully broken down?
I think people generally do not use the one step or middle step stages of correction to their full capability. 203 is a very versatile product and you can use it with various foams, even wool as Rick and Ryan began with the tuf-buf pads.
Try working 203 for as long as you can, even after all the defects are corrected at higher speed, reduce speed on whatever machine your using and lighten up pressure. Essentially work it like a finishing polish, same slower passes, same slower speeds.
While 203 wont leave the same gloss or leveled finish as 85rd or even FA you can get it to finish down very very well.
The better you finish down your one or middle step polishes the more you can do with your finishing polishes...AND THE LESS AGGRESSIVE FINISHING POLISH YOU NEED TO USE!
If you finish down 203 really well with just a hint of hazing hologram you can skip 106FA and go for 85rd which is what you really want for finishing!
Good point!! After all, PO203 is a polish, not a compound.
You see, I have no experience with PO203. I have heard of PO203 not finishing not LSP ready. If PO203, as you have stated, finishes very well after the abrasives have broken down, then I will not worry, and go straight to PO85RD.
Street Dreams
New member
Im not the almighty definitive guidebook... there are too many variables to verify that claim....
If the paint is very soft or sticky you will have issues, if all goes smoothly with 203 and it finishes down than sure skip 106FA, you need to make the choice and see how it plays out
Well, I took your points with discretion. Your points are good and make sense.
I work mostly with Porsches, BMW's, and other European cars with paint that are on the harder side. For softer sticky paints found on Honda, Mazdas, and Toyotas, I use the DA and Meguiar's consumer lines to save time and costs for the clients. Ultimate Compound coupled with the DA usually achieves very quick corrections with relatively little marring or hazes.
Achieving timely correction seems difficult on Mercedes and BMW clear coats. Although M105 and a rotary works quickly enough, that is not the method I want to use all the time. I want something finer than M105, but has more bite than M205. I am not content with M83, personally. I was expecting Meguiar's would release such product for the 2010 lineup. Unfortunately they haven't, and instead produced some DAT Turtle-Wax-eque Rubbing and Polishing Compound probably of 3M's old formula. This is why I want to switch to Menzerna fine and light cut polishes designed for cars with ceramic clear coats.
imported_porta
New member
I am using PO203S as my main polish on almost all the details I do. And it?s a rather nice polish who is pad dependant. IE it will do some nice correction with a wool pad and it will finish out very nice with a finishing pad. Here are the results with only PO203S.
http://truthindetailing.com/Forum/showthread.php?t=2129
I have almost all Menzerna polishes and I am mostly reaching for 3: POS100, PO203S and PO106FA.
If I would only choose then it would be: POS100 and PO203S. This is like Meguiars 105 and 205.
http://truthindetailing.com/Forum/showthread.php?t=2129
I have almost all Menzerna polishes and I am mostly reaching for 3: POS100, PO203S and PO106FA.
If I would only choose then it would be: POS100 and PO203S. This is like Meguiars 105 and 205.
Which would you prefer? PO85RD or PO106FA? There are a lot of raves about the PO85RD, but is it practical since its cut is so little? PO106FA seems to be a popular product that many people use for jeweling, but has a little more cut than PO85RD, making it more ideal for cars with harder clear coats.
Junebug
JAFO
What's POS100 ?
Deep Gloss
Jason@Deep-Gloss.com
New Menzerna compound
imported_porta
New member
Sorry for my late reply. Anyway, It?s been over 2 years since I used PO85RD and nowadays I am mostly using PO85RE5 for jeweling. But PO106FA is my "go to" finishing polish. You can?t go wrong with either of them. People in Sweden is cheap and don?t want to pay for paint correction, so PO203S as a one stepper is commonly used.
Street Dreams
New member
We dont have the 85RE here yet... I hear it is a well tweaked 85rd!
Yeah, I was like... what's 85RE.
I wonder if it's even better than 85RD! Heck, 85RD is already soo good! I cannot envision how they could make it better.
imported_porta
New member
If I remember right, RE5 is better lubed then the RD. But it?s also slightly more abrasive.