Please help- spider webs after poli-seal and upgp

I

imported_detail1

New member
Well I have been detailing with a PC for many years but I have been educating myself for the past 3 weeks by reading alot of info here.



Here's my situation: 2007 white Chevy Monte Carlo SS



I have been a bad boy and during the winter months this car went through car washes once a week- NEVER AGAIN!



Today, I washed my car, Pinnacle clay for over an hour, Poli-Seal w/ PC white 4 inch LC CCS pad followed by UPGP. I bought a canopy to protect the car from the sun.

I managed to finish the hood, roof and trunk. I also use a single halogen light to try to inspect my work. I am trying to make the car shiny and not perfect.



I noticed that there are little black spots that Poli-Seal did not remove. I use to use Pinnacle Paint Cleaner on my other cars and that stuff was great but I want to keep up with the new technology so i bought some new stuff:



In my collection: Pinnacle Paint Cleaner, Medallion Paint Cleaner, Meguiar's #3

Menzerna IP and FPII and Power Gloss, Final Inspection

3M 05937 Perfect-It III Machine Glaze,

Liquid Lustre, Poli-Seal, UPGP mini kit

Pinnacle liquid glaze, Pinnacle Souveran, Zymol Carbon, Zymol Vintage (4 ounce), Zymol 1 step wax cleaner, Carnauba Moose wax, Collinite 476S, Collinite 915, Gliptone Paste Wax

PC

4 inch LC CCS pads- white, green, blue, black

6.5 inch LC pads from Griots- orange and red

Menzerna 6.5 pads- 1 orange and 1 white



In the past I would use my PC with paint cleaner followed by wax.

I want to keep things simple- 1 polish, sealant, carnauba wax- DONE!



Tonight, I turned on my spotlights and noticed tiny- medium size spider webs everywhere and i could see hazing from UPGP- Did I use too much?

Is it ok to apply UPGP after Poli-Seal? there is wax in Poli-seal.



My car looked so nice and shiny today and i thought that Poli-seal would be a great 1 step. and now tonight- I knoow that those spider webs were there- probably from the drive through car washes, using 1 bucket, chamois, etc.



What should i do? Which of my products should i use?

How can I get rid of these spider webs?



thanks

Frank



i do have pics but i need to load them and it's difficult to capture the spider webs!
 
Legacy99 said:
I guess you could use a glaze to help cover up the webbing or start all over and polish.
Click to expand...



U know- Life is a b....



Well I have 4 cars to do by the end of the summer. I am a teacher but I am busy doing house work and i will be taking 2 vacations. I figure it will take me 2 days for each car. 8 days



I want to do the Monte right so i guess I have to start over- Would u go with IP or FPII?



It's tough to see these spider webs- My halogen is a single hand held model. Should i go buy a better light?



thanks

Frank
 
detail1- Some sorta random thoughts follow:



My Griot's brand orange pads are very different from my LC brand ones- the Griot's ones are very mild despite being quite firm. Virtually no cut to the Griot's ones.



To cut down on time, get 4" orange pads. Use small, aggressive pads with aggressive products for the major correction, it'll go infinitely faster than with the larger pads.



Old products aren't always made obsolete by newer ones ;) The Pinnacle PCL is still good stuff. Heh heh, I still use Meguiar's stuff that's basically unchanged since the 1950s and it's just as good for its intended purpose as stuff that's more modern.



I'd experiment with the different polishes to see what's really called for, and it might end up requiring two polishing steps as something aggressive enough to fix the marring might not leave a nice enough finish.



I'd be astounded if the FPII was aggressive enough to remove the marring; it's a final burnishing polish (at least by non-rotary machines).



After using something with some bite to remove the marring, I'd probably finish a white GM with the 3M 05937 myself, quick and user-friendly and oughta leave a decent finish on that paint (I doubt it'd have enough bite to correct the marring on its own).



When you mention keeping it simple, I'd make that: "keeping the *post polishing* steps simple". Getting the paint in shape just takes whatever it takes, but once it's corrected/polished you can simplify by only applying *one* LSP (as opposed to both a sealant and a wax). So I'd correct the paint and then just apply the Collinite 476S.



Good lighting is important and, IMO, money well spent. I'd get a two-head halogen and also an incandescent trouble light and do all inspection in an otherwise dark shop.



Heh heh, I was in your shoes a while back...as a teacher I tried to get most of the big detailing jobs done during breaks between semesters, and I too always had/have a lot of yard work and other stuff competing for my time :D
 
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