Please help me pass the halogen test with flying colors

Nope, I didn't do the IPA wipedown



*sigh* looks like I have to order new stuffs from eshine.ca so here's what I'm planning to get: 3.5 backing plate, maybe 2pcs 4" white pad and 2pcs 4" orange pad.



Now, what should I do to my 6.5" orange/white pads :( I should have ordered the 4" pads for better cut.. dang :D
 
4gothow2playwc3 said:
What pad are you using? 6.5" orange ccs pad? I heard that the only problem of SSR 2.5 is that it dusts pretty much.
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I use 6.5" flat LC.



They do dust some, but Ive found that by reducing the amount of polish I use, and by making sure I'm not overworking the polish, it helps to cut down on dusting.
 
Labster said:
Optimum Polish II via Orange pad should take that out. If you're already ordering the M105 however, read up on the Kevin Brown Method. That will almost definitely take care of your problem.
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I agree about the orange pad. However, I switched from Optimum polishes to M105/M205. I hated the long working time with OP.
 
Accumulator said:
IME the primary benefit of the smaller pads is that you can apply more pressure without the machine merely "jiggling". This does create more heat, and you have to be a little careful, but *man* do the smaller pads do correction better and faster.



Other than the ability to apply pressure, I'm not really sure just *why* they're all that more effective, but I can sure say that they are.
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I can tell you why. It's simple physics. If the pad is being oscillated from a central point, more energy is going to make it to the outside of a smaller pad. Here's a simple example:



Say you are holding say, a dinner plate that has a handle in the center, you can move it back and forth, but it's not gonna be that fast because of the size of the object, even though it isn't that heavy. If you have something smaller, like a piece of a plate the size of a tennis ball, it is going to be much easier to move, with more energy going out to the edges from a single point. If you think about it on an even larger scale, you'll see why.



OP: Before you try anything else, put a decent amount of pressure down and try it with your 6.5" pads. It might not do much as far as correction, but your machine can take it easily and you should get a small amount of correction.
 
LQ9SS said:
.. I switched from Optimum polishes to M105/M205. I hated the long working time with OP.
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Yeah, I too *really* like the much shorter work times of the M105/M205...OCP drove me nuts in that regard.



craigdt-Huh, guess it's one of those "YMMV" things :nixweiss I tried for *years* do get them to do decent work via PC, and recently revisited them with M105. Simply ineffective IME, had to put the pad on the Flex to get anything done, and I do mean *anything*.



And both my PCs have always "merely jiggled" with the application of any significant pressure. They did it when new, after rebuilding, and they still do it today. But then again, it was one of *my* PCs that cut through the clear at the St. Louis G-T-G, and that was with a 6" 7006 pad too.







Darkstar752- Yeah, I get it about the oscillation, but what about rotation? My PCs *oscillate* just fine with the larger pads but as soon as I apply pressure I lose the rotation.



Since the rotation of a PC isn't powered, I find it interesting that it's easier to maintain rotation under applied pressure with the smaller pads. Less friction from the smaller surface area I presume.



And what about the way the outer portion of a bigger pad moves faster than the outer portion of a smaller one? The same thing that makes a smaller pad *less* effective via rotary oughta factor in with RO/DA machines too :think:



All recent discussions of PC, Cyclos, etc. make me even more convinced that the Flex 3401 is simply a better mousetrap (even if I *do* still love my Cyclos).
 
LQ9SS said:
I agree about the orange pad. However, I switched from Optimum polishes to M105/M205. I hated the long working time with OP.
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So it still takes a long time to breakdown the polish even though it's reformulated? are you using optimum polish II?
 
4gothow2playwc3- I haven't tried any OCP newer than, oh..about 2007.



But having used M205 a few times I don't think I *will* be trying it either ;)
 
Hmmm.. the only thing with M205 is that I can't justify the purchase of a 32oz bottle :D I feel that, it's just too much for me. If there's only an 8oz bottle of M205 that will be uber awesome!



Anyways, eShine.ca recommended to use Optimum Compound II and I might get Optimum Polish II as well. But I still have to think twice because I read in some threads that Optimum products are not that Porter Cable friendly O_o
 
4gothow2playwc3 said:
Hmmm.. I think it's my technique. this was my first time to use the PC on my first car. Maybe I was hesitant to put pressure because I'm afraid to screw things up and I believe that no pressure = no cutting power. I guess I need some dutch courage here hehe!
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It isn't the pressure so much as it is you are using a product with very little cut. Optimum Polish II or Meguiars #205 would be the best starting point.



Use enough pressure to lightly bog the PC then let up just enough for the speed to pick back up and use that pressure. Slow passes, about 1" per second, overlapping 50% into your previous pass.
 
4gothow2playwc3 said:
Hmmm.. the only thing with M205 is that I can't justify the purchase of a 32oz bottle :D I feel that, it's just too much for me. If there's only an 8oz bottle of M205 that will be uber awesome!



Anyways, eShine.ca recommended to use Optimum Compound II and I might get Optimum Polish II as well. But I still have to think twice because I read in some threads that Optimum products are not that Porter Cable friendly O_o
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Meguiar's M205 Ultra Finishing Polish



Check out their sample size. More cost effective than even the OTC Ultimate Compound and Swirl X when you factor in their tiny bottles. They have sample sizes of 105 too.
 
It's me again :D I got my 4" yellow, orange and white pads, optimum polish and compound.. I still can't get rid of the light swirl :( this time, I made sure to put pressure that sometimes I can hear the panel popping! Good thing I just ordered the 8oz bottle.. oh well wasted another 20 bucks.



I also tried using it on our 1997 corolla with severe swirls. I saw great improvement - the finish was a lot clearer but there's still some swirl marks.. I don't know if it's caused by my PC. Anyway, I'm still happy because the paint popped! If I can only get rid of all the scratches that will be awesome!



So I guess I giveup using OCC and OCP. My arms and back are sore.. it just takes soooooo much time to break down the polish. I need a compound/polish w/ a greater bite and short working time. Should I get SSR 2.5?
 
4gothow2playwc3- I don't think anybody can guarantee what will/won't work for you ;)



Why not M105M205? They simply work *IME*, and they do so quickly. The short work time is one of the big reasons why I like them.



Yeah, even the samples cost a bit but you're wasting time and buying something else could easily be a waste of money.



Jeff. AutoKraft- Heh heh, if 4gothow2playwc3 won't spend the money for a bottle of polish I dunno if it's reasonable to expect him to buy another polisher and also some Menzerna.
 
Accumulator said:
Yeah, even the samples cost a bit but you're wasting time and buying something else could easily be a waste of money.
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You got it right! That's what I also thought. I feel that I just wasted $30 for a product that won't work for me. With that $30 plus a little cash, I could have bought the M105!



I spent almost the whole night yesterday reading threads here in autopia. It seems that optimum products are really designed for rotary. I also found out that SSR line of poorboys works pretty well with PC. It's kinda lightweight for my pocket but now I'm willing to spend more for meguiars or menzerna.



It's a nice learning experience for me though. It's just that I have to learn the hard way :D
 
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