So I happen to have a rotary polisher in my garage (Hitachi SP18VA) and a hood that will be scrapped fairly soon and I'd like to try my hand at using a rotary for the first time. I ordered a Chemical Guys 5" backing plate for rotaries and I have some mf pads (Uber Cutting Pads and Meguiars Finishing pads) along with some miscellaneous foam pads. I know I will need to go a bit aggressive on the scrap hood because it took several passes with the Uber cutting pad and M105 on a GG6 to achieve about a 95% correction level on a small portion of the hood. I am willing to purchase some other pads that would be recommended, but I am also wondering what RPM's are recommended for compounding/polishing/finishing with a rotary? Or is it better to polish/finish with a DA? Any information would be greatly appreciated.
Plan on using a rotary for the first time
- Thread starter staro0989
- Start date
mrclean81
New member
Stick with foam until you get it down and are comfortable. Wool is a last resort and nearly obsolete these days. MF pads are really suggested for DA use. I occasionally use Buff n Shine MF pads on my DeWalt, but they really take some getting used to. I don't suggest that for a beginner either. Orange LC or BnS pads paired up with a good compound is the way to go. As for RPMs, I stay around 1200 - 1400 for everything. Start slow, pay attention, and don't over think it. The products out there these days make it easy.
The Driver
Detailers Workshop
600-1400-600 zenith point technique.
The Zenith Point Technique
Disclaimer: This is only one technique! It works well for me. There are many other techniques I have used which also work but this is the technique I have settled upon after experimenting. There will be numerous other techniques that work as well maybe even better but for now I am happy to stick with this as it gives me the results I want safely and reasonably fast.
It works upon a ‘zenith’ principle as demonstrated below. The rpm of the rotary starts off slow at 600 rpm through to 900rpm and up to a zenith of maybe 1200-1500rpm and then after reaching the zenith point I work back down the scale through 900rpm and finish at 600rpm.
The zenith point (1200-1500rpm+) is the point at which maximum defect removal occurs. At these speeds its fair to say that some defects such as holograms may be imparted so by going back down the scale not only have you removed the original defects but you are now removing any defects imparted by reaching the zenith point. An LSP ready finish can be achieved by all but the harshest polishes. An added bonus is that when using a finer grade polish you are simply adding to the gloss rather than having to remove any defects left by the previous polish.
The Zenith Point Technique
Disclaimer: This is only one technique! It works well for me. There are many other techniques I have used which also work but this is the technique I have settled upon after experimenting. There will be numerous other techniques that work as well maybe even better but for now I am happy to stick with this as it gives me the results I want safely and reasonably fast.
It works upon a ‘zenith’ principle as demonstrated below. The rpm of the rotary starts off slow at 600 rpm through to 900rpm and up to a zenith of maybe 1200-1500rpm and then after reaching the zenith point I work back down the scale through 900rpm and finish at 600rpm.
The zenith point (1200-1500rpm+) is the point at which maximum defect removal occurs. At these speeds its fair to say that some defects such as holograms may be imparted so by going back down the scale not only have you removed the original defects but you are now removing any defects imparted by reaching the zenith point. An LSP ready finish can be achieved by all but the harshest polishes. An added bonus is that when using a finer grade polish you are simply adding to the gloss rather than having to remove any defects left by the previous polish.
600-1400-600 zenith point technique.
The Zenith Point Technique
Disclaimer: This is only one technique! It works well for me. There are many other techniques I have used which also work but this is the technique I have settled upon after experimenting. There will be numerous other techniques that work as well maybe even better but for now I am happy to stick with this as it gives me the results I want safely and reasonably fast.
It works upon a ‘zenith’ principle as demonstrated below. The rpm of the rotary starts off slow at 600 rpm through to 900rpm and up to a zenith of maybe 1200-1500rpm and then after reaching the zenith point I work back down the scale through 900rpm and finish at 600rpm.
The zenith point (1200-1500rpm+) is the point at which maximum defect removal occurs. At these speeds its fair to say that some defects such as holograms may be imparted so by going back down the scale not only have you removed the original defects but you are now removing any defects imparted by reaching the zenith point. An LSP ready finish can be achieved by all but the harshest polishes. An added bonus is that when using a finer grade polish you are simply adding to the gloss rather than having to remove any defects left by the previous polish.
Thank you both for the information. I will pick up some new foam pads to use with the rotary polisher. I will post my results when I get around to working on the hood.
Todd@RUPES
Just a regular guy
The pile of a microfiber will lay flat as soon as the rotary spins it, negating its advantage.
Instead, go with foam and wool. There are various grades of each.
I would start with a Flex-Foam HD backing plate or a Meguiars W66 So1o Backing Plate, as each offers a cushion that prevents the rotary from walking away if you tilt it. It makes it easier for a beginner to to control.
As far as RPM's, you will get a lot of different suggestions, although the higher you go, the more cut you will achieve, the more heat you will impart on the surface, and the greater the risk of burning an edge.
Start with a a slow speed, and just learn the mechanics of the machine. 600-1000 RPMs, and learn how the polisher works and feels. Once you are comfortable with actually polishing, then focus on your actual polishing technique.
Instead, go with foam and wool. There are various grades of each.
I would start with a Flex-Foam HD backing plate or a Meguiars W66 So1o Backing Plate, as each offers a cushion that prevents the rotary from walking away if you tilt it. It makes it easier for a beginner to to control.
As far as RPM's, you will get a lot of different suggestions, although the higher you go, the more cut you will achieve, the more heat you will impart on the surface, and the greater the risk of burning an edge.
Start with a a slow speed, and just learn the mechanics of the machine. 600-1000 RPMs, and learn how the polisher works and feels. Once you are comfortable with actually polishing, then focus on your actual polishing technique.
Lou Bunn
New member
Wool is NOT dead, and for a rotary, it's the best and IMHO safer than foam pads designed to cut. Now, my advice:
tape up trim
cover everything you don't want polishing splatter to get in to
take it slow, 1000 rpm will do fine, it will work and it's safer,
keep the polisher moving in a nice controlled smooth manner
understand that to move it say to the left - you slighting lift up on the right - note I said SLIGHTLY!
Have fun!
tape up trim
cover everything you don't want polishing splatter to get in to
take it slow, 1000 rpm will do fine, it will work and it's safer,
keep the polisher moving in a nice controlled smooth manner
understand that to move it say to the left - you slighting lift up on the right - note I said SLIGHTLY!
Have fun!
Thank you both for the information. I will order some new foam pads and give it a whirl. Its a scrap hood as mentioned above, so I am not worried about damage. Obviously I will be as careful as possible so I can actually understand using a rotary polisher correctly. When I am using the polisher, do I just use the weight of the machine or is it recommended to apply pressure?
The Driver
Detailers Workshop
The hitachi own is weight is sufficient, it's a decent size polisher. I wouldn't put pressure unless there are some very deep defects.
Good to know, I don't plan on attempting to remove deep defects.
Edit: So I ended up ordering 3 Buff and Shine Orange foam pads and 2 Buff and shine white foam pads. Also added Duragloss Rinseless wash to give it a try.
Good advice here. The best way to learn to use a rotary is to pick it up, and keep using it. You learn more from experience than any of us could tell you. Keep it moving, watch the edges. Keep the cord away from the spinning pad. If you catch the cord in the pad, the force could easily break your wrist.
Wool is only necessary when you need a heavy cut. Wool is great for this. Sometimes, if a clear Is particularly hard or if it's just has deep imperfections, it will feel like a million passes before you cut down below the defects with a foam pad. This is when wool comes in handy.
Also, last tip. Polishing is much easier than cutting. Do some of your first rotary work with polishing pads or finishing pads and polish only. Once you get comfortable with the machine, then try some light cutting and advance. It's not hard, you will get the hand of it. Just remember, you're not so much working the buffer, as you are just guiding it. The pad rotating at 1400 RPM should be doing the actual work.
Stokdgs
dansautodetailing.com
I have had great success for years with the Lake Country Purple Foam Wool pads in all the sizes, using Meguiars 105 and my Makita 9227C.
This combination will kill defects in old Airplane Paint which has to be the absolute worse case scenario ever..
This pad cuts fast, and is not as woolies flying everywhere as wool or other wool combos..
And this pad has been getting good results on plastic headlights lately too...
Dan F
This combination will kill defects in old Airplane Paint which has to be the absolute worse case scenario ever..
This pad cuts fast, and is not as woolies flying everywhere as wool or other wool combos..
And this pad has been getting good results on plastic headlights lately too...
Dan F
Dr Oldz
New member
Really you will see a million suggestions. Each person has their own technique when it comes to rotary polishing. Use a scrap panel as you are and start with a slow speed..... Don't worry about the results on the paint at first but rather get a feel for the machine. After you get a feel then concentrate on what is happening to the paint. Have a good light and make sure you are fully cleaning the paint to inspect your results. Practice, practice and more practice are the keys to success.
Dr Oldz
New member
I also suggest purposely burning an edge or corner on a scrap panel so you get a feel for that also