Pin striping removal?

Greg Nichols

Greg Nichols

New member
I have never removed pin striping off a car, the striping is on top of the paint, and is painted on verses a decal. What is the easiest and least harmful to the paint to remove these?

Someone said to try oven cleaner..........that sounds highly harsh for the paint?

Cheers,
GREG
 
First try a solvent like laquer thinner. If that doesn't work, try heavy duty easy off oven cleaner. I've also used the same product a few times and it work for me, it does works and doesn't remove the factory paint. Try it on the gas lid area first, let us know how it turn out.
 
i used oven cleaner a lot when i detailed at a dealership... i would use it again. i wouldn't do a lot of other things they had us do though....

definitely go for the oven cleaner
 
WOW thanks for the replies guys.......

Is the process I spray it on a cloth and wipe till it dissolves? Then polish the area?

Okay I'll post up my results when I get this truck.

Cheers,
GREG
 
Any update?

Curious as to how the pinstripe removal went, as I am contemplating the same thing. My old car has some pinstriping - some is newer from a repainted door & fender, and some is really faded and shows it's age. Several people have recommended removing all of it, but I've hesitated for fear of harming the single stage paint.

Oven cleaner....THAT will take a real leap of faith. ;)
 
The cut vinyl lettering should come off pretty easy. If you have a heat gun or a hand held butane torch. Blow dryers work but take a bit of time. You just have to soften the vinyl again and peel it off. Plastic razor blades help too. The older the vinyl the harder it will be. You can use the same thing for any printed car graphics.
Keep the heat far from the paint usually about six inches. Use your hand as a test. Put your hand against the car and judge the distance. If it does not burn your hand it can't burn the paint. You will need to remove the dried adhesive and compound the paint underneath otherwise the outline of the letters will remain on the paint for quite some time. It's hard to spot when the car is dry but as soon as it gets wet you will be able to read what used to be there.
Just back round the majority of vinyl products for car graphics are made by 3M. You can jump on their website and get MSDS and specs.
 
For vinyl lettering/decals I use a rubber eraser. These are disc shaped and made out of soft rubber. They fit into any hand drill and although they can be messy they really work well. The key is to use the edge of the disc. They are available at any auto body supply store. Some come with an arbor for your drill, some don't.... so make sure to ask. I think they are $10-$20 and will last a few uses. If you polish after, no problems on the paint.

Waaay easier and faster than the heat gun method, especially on really old decals.
 
Great info Rocky Mountain. Sounds a lot easier. I made a note just in case I run into them. I spent quite a few hours with some of our installers removing letters and vinyl graphics. They are stubborn.
 
Another vote for the circular eraser; believe Eastwood company has them and also most automotive paint supply stores may sell them too. The good ones can be chucked into an air die grinder so you can really go fast and have great control of the disc.
Good luck with this.
DanF
 
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